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Refrigerator GE GSS22KGMDWW defrost failure

The heater comes on but doesn't completely defrost the coils before quitting.
I replaced the motherboard last month. I replaced the thermostat when I replaced the heater three years ago.
I think the defrost thermostat goes directly to the motherboard on this model rather than being in series with the heater.
Heater resistance is about 28 ohms. At room temperature the heater thermostat is a short.
I replaced the ice maker, which I removed a couple of years ago when it quit working, thinking that maybe the change in cold air flow might have affected the defrosting.
The fan in the freezer is working. The freezer section works okay.

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It could be that too much ice is forming for the heater to cope with. check the door seals

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

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Ge profile freezer completely defrosts


If your GE model number is PSS26LSR then I would bet that you refrigerator is showing signs of a WR55X10942 Motherboard
1_25_2013_8_09_32_am.jpg

You also could have a condenser fan stopping and/or motherboard failure. On the back of the PSS26LSR there is a panel with the WR55X10942 Motherboard recessed in the back wall of the refrigerator.Can you unplug the power to the refrigerator and examine the board for swollen capacitors or burn marks? Sometimes the board will show no signs of being defective and still be the cause of why WR55X10942 Motherboard Either way I will be here to help you do this yourself if you like. Please let me know if you have questions, Thanks Sea Breeze
Service Manual Here is a link that you may need should you have a ohm/voltage meter HERE

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Ge tfx 22krdavw refrigerator not cooling


Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this helpout.....

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1 Answer

GE side by side unit. Freezer OK, fridge


Hello,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Hope this work.....


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1 Answer

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Sounds like a defrost issue. The frost is caused because the defrost element heater is not working. Ice accumulates in the coils and blocks the air flow in to the freezer/refrigerator. GE refrigerators have an element heater behind that back panel under the evaporator coils. They are quite simple and inexpensive to replace. Use a hair dryer to defrost the coils to make the swap easier.

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1 Answer

Area around freezer opening on a PDS20S GE


This is uaually caused by the condenser fan next to the compressor not running. Remove the cardboard backing to see it, give it a spin if it's not running. Even if it starts running with a spin you'll need to replace it.
Or If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too. check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

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How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

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1 Answer

Evaporator coil freezes up. i have to manually defrost unit every 2 weeks or so.


If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check
, defrost heater, defrost thermostat.
. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the motherboard.
How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Your motherboard is part 801 on this diagram. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/sect/w/y/2/wy2lkbjgmo.gif

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1 Answer

The refrigerator and the freezer is not working properly, the food is thawing in the freezer and the refrigerator is not staying cold. The compessor is running and blowing cool air. It just started...


Possible defrost problem. If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air.Since you've already replaced the motherboard Checkdefrost heater, defrost thermostat
How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

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deF error means that you need to defrost the unit. Leave the unit unplugged overnight and defrost completely.

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If one coil was burnt out and you replaced the heaters and defrost terminator switch I would recheck the continuity through the defrost heaters. You can do this with an Ohm meter with the refrigerator unplugged. If you had an open coil in one of the heaters you did not have to replace the thermo disk. If you have a complete circuit through the heaters try using the old thermo disk. If you have a meter you can check the voltage from the heater connection on one side to the inlet side of the thermo disk with the refrigerator running in the defrost mode. You should read 115-125 Volts on the meter. This reading tells you that the defrost timer is supplying power to the heater circuit.

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