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Whirlpool dryer LER5656EZ3 no heat

Drum turns, forceful COLD air blows, NO heat. Receptacle measures 240V and also where pigtail connects to dryer. Thermal cut-out & Hi-limit thermostat register 0 ohms. Heating element registers 0 ohmns also. I disconnected all wires & took off thermostat for this reading. Touched terminals that come through the ceramic casing for this reading. I don't know if this is resistance or continuity. How do you check resistance? I read in another posting the heating element should have 9-13 ohms of resistance. Thanks for trying to help.

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I would agree

Posted on Sep 27, 2008

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If the heating element read 0 ohms with the wires removed, you have an open heating element, (should be around 10 ohms) replace heating element and you should be ready to rock.

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

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1 Answer

WHIRLPOOL LEC8858EQO


If the drum is turning and air is blowing then the most likely causes are thermal fuse trip, thermostat fault or heater fault.
Some good points mentioned on this site.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Why_wont_my_whirlpool_electric_dryer_heat_up

Discussion about thermal fuse on this site.http://www.appliancejournal.com/appliance-parts/whirlpool-appliance-parts/whirlpool-dryer-thermal-fuse-3390719-64/

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There are several thermal safety fuses in dryers which once blown have to be replaced. But, more importantly, they normally blow for a reason and simply replacing one without resolving the underlying problem of overheating will simply cause another failure. Lint is the normal culprit; vacuum and forced air to clean everything out. WITH THE POWER CORD UNPLUGGED and the leads temporarily disconnected, check continuity on each of the thermal fuses (they look like a stainless steel hat that might fit on a Barbie doll. Some dryers have four or five.).

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Whorlpool dryer timer


I worked ona wp electric dryer not long ago with a heat problem.
Take a look:

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Jul 08, 2012 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

WHIRLPOOL DUET DYRER DOES NOT GET HOT DRUM TURNS BUT IS NOT HEATING UP PROBERLY ANYMORE


Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Mar 16, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity...

1 Answer

Elkectric dryer won't start


to put it kindly depending on way you connected wires unit could be damaged,replace pigtail with three wire and outlet to original.outlet wires should be black,red and white. turn breaker off attach white to middle and red,black to sides,"either side is fine".Attach dryer pigtail in same manner with white on white and if plug in and turn breaker on.If there is no operation at this point dryer possibly damaged from previous wiring.Just remember be safe when working with electrical and ask before trying to change things that aren't the same.

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1 Answer

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If there's heat inside the drum the heater coils are ok. Check the exhaust vent, make sure it's not kinked or squished behind the machine and that the outside vent is not clogged with lint. You should feel air blowing freely to the outside.
If there is no heat, first check for 240V at the outlet. If you have 240V, check the element, the hi-limit thermostat and the thermal cut-off for continuity. If those are ok, it could be a problem with the timer, the motor or a wiring issue (loose or shorted)
Let me know if you need more assistance.
Good luck!

Mar 25, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

I have a whirlpool dryer that takes a long time to dry.


If there's heat inside the drum the heater coils are ok. Check the exhaust vent, make sure it's not kinked or squished behind the machine and that the outside vent is not clogged with lint. You should feel air blowing freely to the outside.
If there is no heat, first check for 240V at the outlet. If you have 240V, it could be the element, the hi-limit thermostat, the thermal cut-off, the timer, the motor or a wiring issue (loose or shorted)
Good luck!.

Mar 13, 2009 | Whirlpool ET8CHEXSQ Dryer

1 Answer

Air flow and heating problem inside dryer.


???? this doesnt make much sense, can see how you would be measuring air flow within the cabinet??? air blowing out unit strong means your gettin good air flow fom within, that is a direct relation as to the amount of (hot) air being pulled across the clothing

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1 Answer

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hi thanks for your question make sure you have 240 volts at dryyer dicconnect dryer from power source check for ohms at the element take one wire off and check at element there could be another thermostat that sometimes is missed because its on the heater housing at the top of housing check that the appliance doc

Sep 14, 2008 | Dryers

1 Answer

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look for an "open" thermostat either on the heater can, or a thermal fuse has gone bad, probably shorted out when the element broke.

May 13, 2008 | Whirlpool GEQ9800P Electric Dryer

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