My idea is to design circuit to automatic shut down pump when pump loses vacuum.. So far I have contactor either with 24 coil or 110v coil in series with vacuum switch.My problem is circuit will not close upon time clock starting pump because vacuum switch has no vacuum.If I could temporary short vacuum switch with time delay it would than be able to shut pump down if it lost vacuum for some reason. Any ideas
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Probably the pump has a water pressure protection switch. So it will not run dry and burn up. How is it that you are losing water pressure? On the delivery end or receiving. Restrictions on a pump always are placed output
Jeff, The winch direction is controlled by the contactor and (polarity/relay) is switched using the switch/controller on the handle bars. I think you are dealing with one of a few possible situations. Lets narrow them down. 1) The winch motor. Bad in one direction only? this is highly unlikely. The body of the winch is electrically grounded properly or it would not run in the out direction..You may be able to manually reverse polarity to test the motor. If you do not understand this concept, then don't attempt anything that could make a short. 2) The contactor is a relay that has very delicate copper studs. If you over torqued them during the install, they easily break off. The contactor is the most likely issue. Double check the studs and ensure the wiring pattern is correct to and from the contactor. Ensure the wires/nuts washers are not touching the other leg of the contactor/studs - i.e. anything that could make a short. 3) The handle bar switch may be defective or wired wrong. Isolate the switch and make sure it works properly with a volt meter/continuity test.
I have personally experienced broken contactor studs, defective contactors and damaged handlebar switches. It took time to properly isolate and repair the issue.
You have air infiltrating the vacuum line somewhere. The hose may have a swivel cuff on one end that must be in the water, not attached to the skimmer. Next, check the gasket on to p of the pump housing. Under vacuum, the gasket may bleed air into the system shutting down the pump flow. Lastly, check the skimmer thoroughly for small cracks. Again, under vacuum it may open and allow air to infiltrate. The only way for a filter to go from 10-0 pressure is if the pump loses prime ie: air infiltration. Hope that helps.. Rob
Does it come back on after resting/cooling down. If does peobably kick out on heat overload and is resetting itself. If impeller is free spinning with NO roughness or side play in bearing probably too much head pressure,pumping too far or too small pipe wich will cause excessive pressure making pump work to hard
This is your contactor enguaging and one of those things you don't notice when everything is working. At this point your getting power through the unit and will need a pro to probally replace your element.
Sometimes around the area of the motor there is a little button that is usually red that is made to "trip" if the pump got hot or overloaded. Push this button back in to reset if it has on. Most pumps have this button to keep them from burning up if overloaded.
There are a few possibilities. Pump duty cycle, ie. how long it is designed to run at one time. Most electric motors have a code on them or say continuous or some other duty cycle range. Is your pump designed to run as long as you run it. Next is wiring, are you using the correct gauge wire for the load? A wire size too large will generally not hurt, but decrease the wire size and your wire will heat up along with the motor. Usually this can cause the breaker to pop or the motor to over heat and stop. Another wiring issue could be a short or bad connection on either end. Some 230 motor will run on one leg of voltage but less efficient. Check the connections at both ends and put a meter on them to check for shorted wires and voltage on the wires at the pump. The last thing I can think or is that you have a defective pump in some way. Perhaps a bad bearing or seal. I am not familiar with pump controls yet. I am getting one soon. I am guessing there is a start/run capacitor in it. If it starts the pump it shouldn't be the source of your problem. Assuming all equipment you have is designed to work together. Good Luck.