I put rugs in my dryer to fluff them up. I came back in about 30 minutes to put in more clothes to dry and the dryer was off. I pushed the start button and it didn;t do anything. I checked the breaker and unplugged the the main cord out of the wall and plug it back in hoping that would help. I don;t know what is wrong. Could you please send me a manual or a description on the wiring or something to help me. Thanks Nancy Herald
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Hello. There are black and yellow wires that connect to the heating element. The black comes from the inlet thermal limiter fuse, the yellow comes from the main drive motor. There is always 120 volts at the element. When the dryer is initiated, the motor, using a centrifugal switch, connects another 120v supply across the other side of the element which totals 240 volts and causes the element to heat. This is done intentionally as a safety feature--the element can't heat if the motor isn't running.
It's likely your heating element has overheated and the ni-chrome heater wire has been severed. There are other potential root causes, but this is most likely the root cause. There are two temperature sensors in the heating element sub-assembly, one or both or which may have failed.
The most likely cause of heating element overheating is a clogged vent. To avoid future overheating, check the vent regularly and remove any lint build-up.
The heating element, the heating element sub-assembly, and the entire galvanized metal heating sub-assembly (which includes the two temperature sensors) are available for purchase. Here are examples of all three:
Before purchasing any component, verify model and part numbers match your dryer.
Before starting your repair, make sure the dryer is disconnected from its electrical source either by unplugging it or turning off its breaker. The dryer is heavy, so be careful lifting. Parts inside the dryer may be sharp to the touch, so be careful reaching inside. Use of gloves is recommended.
The heating sub-assembly is accessible from the front, behind the door sub-assembly, but may need to be removed from the rear. Follow this YouTube example-- it should be similar to your dryer even though it may not be exactly your model. Be sure to notice wires and cable connections, and be sure to reassemble just as you disconnected. It's wise to take photos as you go so that you can recall how parts and wires go back together.
If the heating element is severed, obviously it will need to be replaced. If the mounting insulators are in good shape, you might choose to just replace the wire. As in this video, some skill is needed to disassemble the heating wire from the mounting plate. If one or more insulators have been damaged, the entire heating wire sub-assembly should be replaced. Or, as listed above, the entire sub-assembly can be purchased, which includes the two temperature sensors. This will simplify the project (but cost a bit more). The temperature sensors should be in normally-on condition, going to open state at temperature set limit. You can check the sensors with an ohm meter. If either is open at room temperature, that sensor has failed and also needs to be replaced.
Make the repairs warranted by your investigation, re-assemble the heating sub-assembly being careful to match photos you've taken, re-install in the dryer, re-assemble the dryer vent, door and top, re-connect the dryer to its electrical source, then test the dryer. The temperature should quickly rise within the dryer drum.
Open the front panel, remove heat exchanger and clean. also clean out lint tray.
this might help a little. Now lets check if the thermal sensor or heating element needs to be replaced.
Unplug the dryer. remove the panel in the back of the dryer that covers the heating element. ( the inner panel). On top of the heating element you will see a thermal sensor with a small red button on it. Thats the manual reset button. To test if the heating element is working properly you can disconnect the wires from the sensor and clip the connectors together . Plug the dryer back in and start it. pay attention to the heating element. It should begin to glow shortly. if it doesn't then your heating element is bad and needs to be replaced.
Unplug the dryer. Connect the wires back to the thermal sensor. Plug the dryer back in. Before you start the dryer, press the red button on the thermal sensor. Start the dryer. If the heating element doesn't come on and dryer doesn't heat, then you need to replace that sensor.
Open front panel, remove heat exchanger and clean.
Unplug the dryer. remove the panel in the back of the dryer that covers the heating element. ( the inner panel). On top of the heating element you will see a thermal sensor with a small red button on it. Thats the manual reset button To test if the heating element is working properly you can disconnect the wires from the sensor and clip the connectors together . Plug the dryer back in and start it. pay attention to the heating element. It should begin to glow shortly. if it doesn't then your heating element is bad and needs to be replaced.
Unplug the dryer. Connect the wires back to the thermal sensor. Plug the dryer back in. Before you start the dryer, press the red button on the switch. This is your reset button. Start the dryer. If the heating element doesn't come on and dryer doesn't heat, then you need to replace that sensor.
How to Replace A
White Knight Tumble Dryer Heating Element Heater and Thermostat
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White knight tumble dryer not heating this video show you
how to change and fit a new heating element and thermostats can be used on Ariston, Electrolux,
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You'll need to check the thermostats and heating element. The dryer has like two or three thermostats: two that operate the heating element, and one that burns out like a fuse if it gets too hot. Pick up a electric multimeter. I got mine at wal-mart for $5. Put it on the resistance (greek letter omega or upside down horseshoe symbol). 1X or 10X or anything doesn't matter. When you touch the probes together the needle should jump, indicating that there's very low resistance there because the probes don't resist electricity flowing them. You can use this to test the components. Unplug the dryer for God's sake, and then try to take off the back panel. If you don't see a way you can probably "pop" the top of the dryer by prying it up with a putty knife in the seam between the sides and top of the dryer. Now remove the back, and find the heating element assembly, probably on the lower right. There will be two or three wires connected to the element assembly. Two 220v wires(probably red) will supply power to the element and one control wire(probably yellow) send feedback to the controller. Check the resistance of the heating element and each of the thermostats by putting the probes on the wires on each "side" of it and check the resistance. If something has a very high resistance on the high voltage wires, it's probably defunct and needs to be replaced. The yellow or control wire might have a resistor on it that your meter would read as bad, but you're only concerned with the high voltage supply wires. Note that the wiring diagram will probably be hidden somewhere inside the dryer when you open it up. If all the parts in the element assembly check out ok follow the wire connected from the element to the motor and check the resistance of the resistors and stuff on the diagram. Note that is a resistor have a value like 10k(10,000 ohms) you may have your meter set too low for the needle to actually read it. That's what the 1X, 10X multiplier settings are for if your meter has them. Other problems could be a loose wire, dirty moisture sensor inside the drum, defective controller, or defective switches.
do you have both power phases as in 120 volts per leg? also check your neutral wire at the dryer element if it uses one, they carry the im-balance of current and get brittle with age and break at the heating terminal connection
Quite a job for a novice unplug unit take the two screws out of the front door panel at the bottom. pull out to about 45 degrees and you can see spring clips at top which should release as you pull up and out. give yourself some slack with the wires you can see how, set to the left, look down at the bottom right and you will see the heating element. there is a 1/4 screw in the very back top and two srews in front that hold the can in place, make a diagram of where wires go and remove them as you take out can. look for broken element if broken part #y303404 1-877-262-1479
Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.