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Whirlpool LER5636EZ3 dryer won't heat

I have checked the power supply, 240v. I checked the Thermal cut-out & Hi-Limit Thermostat both read 0 ohms. The heating element also reads 0 ohms. I read on another posting that the heating element should read 9-13 ohms. Is the heating element the problem?
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Freckleface1

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Hi If it reads 0 hms yes thats te problem Thanks the appliance doc

Posted on Sep 12, 2008

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Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Electric dryer spins no heat, replaced heater element and high limit thermostat, tested thermal fuse and it does have 0 ohms, thermistor reads ~50 ohms.


in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

Jul 20, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

Dryer drum will turn but not heat up any suggestions? purchased a ohm meter and removed the back panel not sure how to test for continuity(power has been disconnected!) Fairly new dryer please help


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance:

http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php

The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of heat related problems: 1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out 2. Missing 1/2 your input voltage at the wall receptacle (the dryer will still run with half the voltage missing, but won't heat - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers. 3. Bad power cord, causing 1/2 the input voltage to be missing. 4. Blown heating element. Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful. NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Mar 30, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

It keeps running non-stop but wont heat up


Your temperature thermostat or heater coil is most likely bad, you can test by ohming each. NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool LEB6300 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I get to the thermal fuse on Whirlpool electric dryer LER4634EQ0


All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
Item 17 - Heating Element
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Sep 23, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer Model 110


If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

Feb 04, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer LER5636EZ3


hi thanks for your question make sure you have 240 volts at dryyer dicconnect dryer from power source check for ohms at the element take one wire off and check at element there could be another thermostat that sometimes is missed because its on the heater housing at the top of housing check that the appliance doc

Sep 14, 2008 | Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool dryer LER5656EZ3 no heat


If the heating element read 0 ohms with the wires removed, you have an open heating element, (should be around 10 ohms) replace heating element and you should be ready to rock.

Sep 13, 2008 | Dryers

2 Answers

Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat


it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded

Jun 28, 2008 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

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