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Whirlpool dryer won't heat

I have checked the Thermal Cut-out & Hi- Limit thermostat, they both read 0 ohms. I checked the heating element and it also reads 0 ohms. Does the heating elemnt need to be replaced?
Thanks,
Chris

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  • freckleface1 Sep 13, 2008

    Whirlpool dryer LER5636EZ3. Drum turns, forceful COLD air blows, no heat. Receptacle measures 240V and also at dryer connection at pigtail. The heating element was tested by removing all wires and also took off thermostat. I get a 0 ohms reading by checking terminals that are through the ceramic casing. I not sure if this is resistance or continuity. If this is continuity, how do you check resistance? I am not seeing a heat relay on the wriing diagram. Thanks for your help.

  • freckleface1 Sep 14, 2008

    I changed the heating element, Hi-Limit thermostat, & Thermostat Cut-out. Dryer still does not heat. I checked voltage while plugged up and got the following. 240v at receptale, 240v at pigtail at back of dryer, 240v on red wire with black wire going into the timer/switch. When checking the heating element I get 125v on each terminal but no register when touching both terminals (red wire on terminal going through ceramic casing). I have to put red lead (from meter) on terminal & black lead (from meter) on metal to ground to get a reading. Is the heating element suppose to be 240v on the terminals? If it is where do I look next? The red wire goes through the back under the drum, I suppose to the motor. I didn't break it down to that far. I just took off the back. I am at wits end. Got any more suggestions?

  • Anonymous Jan 18, 2009

    I have one of the new Maytag Performa dryers that are made by Whirlpool.

    Model number MED564OTQO. It stop drying, checked voltage and got 220

    at the pigtail terminal, but 0 at the heating element/thermostat. So I changed element and thermostat with new ones and still got the same. Help!!!!

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  • Master
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Hi. thanks for letting me answer.the only part that was not mentioned. is the timer contacs Y & R . the heat contacts in the heating circuit. thanks

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

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  • Master
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Okay...first of all, what led you to this point where you are troubleshooting the heating circuit? Does the drum still turn? The first thing to do before assuming you have a bad component if check the power at the receptacle. You should read 220-240 VAC. If you are missing one leg of your 220 service, you will get similiar symptoms as the dryer heating circuits require 220 service, while the motor that turns the drum only uses 110-120 VAC. The result: A dryer that the drum spins, but won't heat. This has caused many people to believe they had a bad appliance, only to find out that the problem was the electrical supply.

The heating element should read between 9 and 13 ohms. Make sure you aren't measuring anything to ground or you will get improper readings. Also, make sure you are actually measuring on a resistance scale and not using a continuity check. Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the heating element before measuring. Measure at the terminals of the element. If you still get 0 ohms, you may have an element that is grounded to the chassis. If this is the case, I would recommend replacing.

Some dryers also have a heat relay. The manufacturer places a wiring diagram inside the operator console. Sometimes the heat relay will go bad and will not energize the heating circuits. This can also cause a no heat problem. The realy (if equipped) will be located inside the operator console, and is a simple item to replace.

I hope you find some of this helpful. Let me know what your dryer symptoms are.

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 13, 2008

    Okay...it sounds like you definitely have a heating circuit problem. All the Whirlpool model dryers I've worked on have a resistance reading of about 9-13 ohms when measuring across the terminals of the heating element. I could be wrong, but I don't think the element should read a short. The difference between a resistance check and a continuity check is just that. A resistance scale (R x 1, R x 10, etc.) is used to measure resistances. The continuity scale (if your meter is equipped with one) is also known as a diode checker. On this scale the meter is looking for either a short or an open and will beep a short circuit. This is great for measuring lengths of wire between cable connectors. I would remove the heating element and inspect the coild closely to make sure they are not grounded to anything.



    If your diagram does not have a heat relay, then you probably don't have one. Since you've already replaced the Thermal Cut-Out and Hi-Limit Thermostat, you may also consider the centrifugal switch. It is located on the Drive Motor. It should show this in your wiring diagram. If the centrifugal switch does not close, the heating circuits will not energize, but the motor may still run.



    I will enclose the following link that explains a lot of the common problems with dryers and how to troubleshoot them:



    http://www.fixya.com/support/r385301-tho...



    Please read through this information to see if there may be something you have not tried. Again, let me know if you still require assistance.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Sep 14, 2008

    Are you sure you replaced the heating element with a good one. Just to confirm the readings that you have, I verified these against a known good working Whirlpool manufactured dryer. These are the readings I got:



    If you read each terminal of the heating element to ground it reads 125VAC.

    If you read the two terminals together is reads 240VAC.



    What this tells me is that you are getting the proper voltage to the heating element. The reading of 0 VAC, however, tells me that you have something shorted or grounded.

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1 Answer

Electric dryer spins no heat, replaced heater element and high limit thermostat, tested thermal fuse and it does have 0 ohms, thermistor reads ~50 ohms.


in addation to checking the high limit t-stat have you checked the thermal cut off (the small t-stat) on the heater housing where the element fits into, the high limit t-stat and the thermal cut off BOTH shoud have 0 ohms (the thermal fuse is in the blower housing) the cut off is on the heater box, if you have checked those to be good, check that the heat relay on the control board is closing and sending power to the element, if not replace the control, if all above are good then the motor switch is bad and not sending power to the element(thats a built in safety feature so the dry would never heat when the motor isnt running)the element of course heats only when 240 volts ac is to the element ,120vac from the relay on control through the high limit t-stat then through the thermal cut off finally to the element and 120vac from the motor switch for a comined 240 vac

Jul 20, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Element not heating


If the model number is correct, your heating circuits are comprised of the following components:

1. Heating Element
2. Thermal Cut-Out
3. Hi-Limit Thermostat
4. Internal Bias Thermostat
5. Thermal Fuse

You can access your heating circuits by UNPLUGGING the dryer and removing the rear panel.

As viewed from the rear of the dryer, your Heating Element will be located on the RIGHT hand side inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out will be located on the outside of the heater box at the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

The Internal Bias Thermostat and Thermal Fuse are two small components mounted on the Blower Fan housing on the lower LEFT hand side.

You can refer to the following parts illustration for assistance: http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-display.php
The components are listed as follows:

Heating Element (Item 17)
Thermal Cut-Out (Item 6)
Hi-Limit Thermostat (Item 15)
Internal-Bias Thermostat (Item 20)
Thermal Fuse (Item 19)

If the dryer is running, but not heating, this is not always an indication of a blown heating element. If you need assistance on how to troubleshoot a dryer, you can refer to this link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice

The MOST common causes of a dryer that will not heat are:

1. Blown Thermal Cut-Out (replace the Hi-Limit Thermostat along with the TCO if found to be bad). 2. Bad Heating Element.

3. Missing all , or part, of your input voltage at the wall receptacle - double check your source voltage at the receptacle and/or your circuit breakers.

4. Bad power cord. Check the terminal block on the back of the dryer with the cord plugged in. If the voltage is good at the receptacle, but missing a the terminal block, you may have a bad power cord.

Read through all the information provided and let me know if you have any questions, or need further assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: Take all resistance readings with the dryer UNPLUGGED and the component under test isolated (meaning disconnect any wire leads to ensure the accuracy of your readings).

Apr 19, 2010 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Will run but will not heat up


Most likely a bad heating element and or bad thrmostats. you'll need to check these by ohming out after removing the rear panel to your dryer.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

It keeps running non-stop but wont heat up


Your temperature thermostat or heater coil is most likely bad, you can test by ohming each. NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

Oct 26, 2009 | Whirlpool LEB6300 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I get to the thermal fuse on Whirlpool electric dryer LER4634EQ0


All the heating and temperature control components are located in the back of the dryer. To access, unplug the dryer and remove the exhaust vent hose. Turn the the dryer around so you can view the back and remove the back panel. With the panel removed, the component locations are as follows:

Right-Hand Side:

1. Heating element - located inside the heater box. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is about 9 to 13 ohms.

2. Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) - located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. If bad, the dryer will run, but will not heat. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

3. Hi-Limit Thermostat - located on the outside of the heater box adjacent to the heating element terminals. It works in conjunction with the TCO to help regulate the drum internal temperature. A good reading is a short (0 ohms).

NOTE: If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are found to be defective, it is recommended that you replace BOTH components to prevent premature failure. These two components are commonly sold as a set.

Left-Hand Side:

1. Thermal Fuse - located on the blower fan housing. It is a small white plastic looking component with two wires attached. If defective, the dryer will not run at all. If the component is good it should read a short (0 ohms).

2. Internal Bias Thermostat - located on the blower fan housing adjacent to the Thermal Fuse. It has four wires attached to it.

NOTE: All resistance checks should be performed with the component terminal wires disconnected to prevent false readings.

If you have any questions, you can refer to searspartsdirect.com for some helpful exploded view diagrams to assist you. The components I mention are listed under the "Bulkhead" heading as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat replacement kit
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat sold separately
Item 17 - Heating Element
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Internal Bias Thermostat

If you need further assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

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1 Answer

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If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.

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hi If it reads 0 hms yes thats te problem Thanks the appliance doc

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If you go to searspartsdirect.com, type in your model number in the Search menu, then look under the "Bulkhead" menu option, you will see an illustration of your dryer. You will need to remove the heater box cover (item #5) to get to the heating element. The element should slide out of the bottom of the heater box housing. Removing the housing from the dryer first makes it easier. Sometimes you may need a little muscle in getting the heater coil to come out.

Have you checked the thermal cut-out(TCO)/hi limit thermostat? This is item #1 in the drawing. If your dryer runs, but does not heat, this is normally the culprit. You are right to assume you could have a heating element problem, but the element tends to be more resilient. In my experience with electric dryers, the thermal cut-out tends to go bad first. It's easier to check and easier to replace as it is mounted on the outside of the heater box. Check for the following:

With the heater box STILL installed, the TCO will be a small component mounted at the top of the heater box housing. The hi-limit thermostat will be mounted at the bottom of the heater box housing next to the ceramic terminal of the heating element. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, disconnect the wires to the TCO and do a resistance reading. It should read 0 ohms if good. Do the same with the hi-limit thermostat. It should also read 0 ohms if good. Last of all perform a reading across the leads of the heating element with the wires unplugged. You should get a reading of 9 - 13 ohms if it is good. If you determine the TCO or hi-limit thermostat to be bad, it is HIGHLY recommended that you replace them BOTH at the same time. They are sold as a set (part #279769). Failure to replace both components could result in part failure. The part number for the heating element is 4391960. I hope this helps you.

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