Question about Dryers
I have checked the Thermal Cut-out & Hi- Limit thermostat, they both read 0 ohms. I checked the heating element and it also reads 0 ohms. Does the heating elemnt need to be replaced?
Hi. thanks for letting me answer.the only part that was not mentioned. is the timer contacs Y & R . the heat contacts in the heating circuit. thanks
Posted on Sep 29, 2008
Okay...first of all, what led you to this point where you are troubleshooting the heating circuit? Does the drum still turn? The first thing to do before assuming you have a bad component if check the power at the receptacle. You should read 220-240 VAC. If you are missing one leg of your 220 service, you will get similiar symptoms as the dryer heating circuits require 220 service, while the motor that turns the drum only uses 110-120 VAC. The result: A dryer that the drum spins, but won't heat. This has caused many people to believe they had a bad appliance, only to find out that the problem was the electrical supply.
The heating element should read between 9 and 13 ohms. Make sure you aren't measuring anything to ground or you will get improper readings. Also, make sure you are actually measuring on a resistance scale and not using a continuity check. Disconnect the wires from the terminals of the heating element before measuring. Measure at the terminals of the element. If you still get 0 ohms, you may have an element that is grounded to the chassis. If this is the case, I would recommend replacing.
Some dryers also have a heat relay. The manufacturer places a wiring diagram inside the operator console. Sometimes the heat relay will go bad and will not energize the heating circuits. This can also cause a no heat problem. The realy (if equipped) will be located inside the operator console, and is a simple item to replace.
I hope you find some of this helpful. Let me know what your dryer symptoms are.
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
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