I have a creda TCR2 Tumble dryer. It is starting to make a sreeching,
rubbing noise. It seems that the element is rubbing on the back. I have took it a part and had the back plate off slightly and the noise stopped.
When replacing back cover noise came back
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If your dryer is not drying like it once did or if you just have nottaken the time to give yourself a clean dryer in a long time then youneed to do that. At least once a year the dryer cleaning should takeplace. Lint build up in the dryer duct is one of the main causesfor your dryer to fail.
It depends on which make and model of tumble dryer you have as to
how easy it is to replace the relevant parts. Some tumble dryers have heating elementsthat are easily accessible by removing
the back panel, and can be tested for continuity or checked for obvious burning
out or open circuit. Others though have theirheating elementsinside, which aren't accessible
without stripping the dryer down we will try and cover as many as possible in
orvideo tutorials section.
Tumble dryerheating elements
are always protected by thermal fuses and thermostats which are usually simple
devices with 2 wires connected and have a bimetal strip inside them. They can
be tested for continuity with a test meter. The problem is that if a
stat (thermostat) ort.o.c. (thermal overload cut-out)has gone open circuit, it may be for a
reason. Overheating could have caused it by not being able to vent the air due
to a blockage some ware. Blockedfiltersor even the machine not being allowed
its ten minute cooling down period, Overloading can cause it as well. Sometimes
they can go for no apparent reason. A blocked or severely kinkedvent hosecan
also cause overheating.
You-Tube video "ymXmpyVkxIE" placeholder (do not delete)
Power from the house -- Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Heating element -- Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
Thermal fuse -- On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
Wiring -- A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
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