Last fall i was listening to my speakers and all of a sudden they shut off. The safety light came on the amp. The have not worked sense then. The speakers still work, its just the amp and im totally clueless about what is wrong. The amp is hooked up to two rockferd 15s. The amp was working for awhile before this happened.
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Re: spl amp 2400 watts
Do you know how to trouble shoot solid state devices??? if so then what you need to do is disconnect the collector if its a transistor output device or the b+ leg if its an Ic output device and then measure the ohms between the emitter and the collector or on an ic device the B+ leg to the outpot leg. If its shorted Your gonna need a schematic most likly to trace the path of the short.. if you dont understand this then you will need to take it to a repair shop and let them do the repair as you may not be up to a componet level type repair.. BUT if you are please get the schematic diagram and post it attention to me and i will be more then happy to assist you with this repair. Good luck
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Considering what they are you should be fine, just make sure you do not use the bass boost and you have your gain turned all the way down adjust your gain from there you should not be using any type of bass boost through your head unit, basically you want to start with the least amount of power your amp can put out before you hit the max out so you don't hurt your speakers be sure to listen for clipping or bottoming out
It is possible that the amplifier had encountered a fault with a higher current drain which had triggered it to a protection fault condition. The fault can be your output drivers- the MOSFETS/IC's fitted for both the channels, Use a meter after disconnecting to check for short in the drivers. Disconnect the positive and negative voltages to the output and see if the protect changes. Even a fault in the preamp stages that drives in high current into the output can shut the Amplifier. Sometimes this can be a noise like a HUM or HISS before the protect works. Faulty capacitors in these circuits also can cause similar issuesand needs close observation. You need to confirm and replace the specific stages or outputs. If not there can be issues in the mother board, maybe the protect circuit by itself is shutting off due to a faulty bias , maybe a leak in any voltage/current sensing circuit. Also disconnect the speakers and test, if the protect is off then check for short on the speakers.
There are really only two possibilities here. If you have the gain turned up too high then your amp will get over worked and will go into protect mode. It is a safety feature. You should never really have the gain at much over 50% up. If you have to consistently run it higher than that you are overworking your amp and it will either shut down to protect itself or you will fry it.
The size of the wire affects the performance of an amp, but the amp should still turn on. 12 volts is 12 volts. So you tested with another amp, on the same wires, and it works fine.The only thing you can really check on the new amp is the fuses in the side. If those are blown, then you should be able to (Unless the amp is fried, and that's why it blew the fuses in the first place) fire it right up. If the fuses arent blown, and you have all your power, and ground, and still nothing.. Well then in that case the amp is just bad, and regardless of the wattage, you just don't fix a Pyle amp.
Not knowing what you have the SPL-620 driving or knowing how you have it wired, it's rather difficult to determine if it's wired "wrong".
I show the SPL DK2-620 as being a 2-channel amp with 150 watts output at 4 ohms, or 180 watts at 2 ohms. Even if the power is somewhat overrated, it should provide more than enough power for a set of standard 2-way or 3-way speakers, or component speakers with a separate crossover.
Powering one or more subs is another thing. You would get sound, but the subs would not be very loud. In bridged mode, the amp is only stable to 4 ohms. So if you are trying to power 2 4-ohm subs, the best connection would be 1 sub connected to each channel. If you are powering only 1 sub, then the bridged connection would be best.
Hope this helps. If it does, please rate as "FixYa".
The 230 watt amp is a little small for your subs. They'll work, but if you are looking for max SPL, you won't get it. To push those Audiobahn's to their potential pavement shaking max, I would recommend an amp in the range of 500-600 rms (2-channel bridged) or 1000 watts rms monoblock.
you are going to need an amp that can supply the right amount of rms power to make it sound good. these sony subs are rated for 380 watts rms. so in order to find an amp that will supply two, you must multiply that figure by two. so you will need an amp that can supply around 500 to 750 watts continuously (or rms). also you are going to want an amp that is either class d or class ab rated. these amps are built to push subwoofers exclusively and will give you the best efficiency and sound out of your subs. you will also want to get an amplifier is a monoblock amp, and not a stereo amplifier. make sure the amp can put out that rms rating at 2 ohms as two 4 ohm speakers equal 2 ohms wired in parallel. i have a kenwood kac9152d that puts out about 2000 watts max at 2 or 1 ohms (900 watts rms) that i used with my two sony xplod 10's for about 2 years. it was kick ***! now i dont know if you need that much power but they will handle it as long as you dont push them too hard for long periods of time, otherwise you might end up blowing them up! (depending on the box size that is, and the quality of it as well...)
i have years of car audio installation experience and can help with setting up and wiring any mobile entertainment system you can imagine. may i ask what kind of music you listen to and what kind of box do you have for these subwoofers?
If what you're telling me is correct you're trying to drive a stereo sub -woofer with a mono amplifier. If so, that could be a bad situation for the amp, if the voice coils are not wired together correctly. Before we go too far, I have some questions I need answered. 1. Is the MA unit an M1889i? 2. Do you have the 4 terminals of sub-woofer tied together. For example the 2 positive terminals are tied together & the 2 negative terminals are tied together? 3.How do you supply 12VDC to the amp?
While I'm waiting to hear back from you, I'll try to draw a schematic (wiring diagram) of the way it should be wired for your particular setup that I'll send to you.
Disconnect the speaker wires from the amplifier and see if it still goes into protection mode. If it still goes into protect with the speakers disconnected, there's a problem with the amp; if not, you may have a blown speaker or a shorted speaker wire.