It works fine on wash cycle, but when it comes to rinsing, water drizzles a bit and completely stops. We tried unplugging machine completely, also checked valves and if everything was hooked up properly, and everything is ok. However, I have never had this problem before, I've had machines about 2 years now and it worked fine. Recently, cold water stops filling up on rinse cycle. Please help.
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Re: Rinse cycle, water won't work
It sounds like you either use warm or hot water for the wash cycle. If this is the case, you probably have a cold water solenoid problem on your water inlet valve (also known as a mixing valve on some washers). Most people use warm or hot water on the wash cycle. The water inlet valve has two solenoids. One for hot and one for cold. It uses a combination of the hot and cold solenoids to make warm water. The rinse cycle on most washers is a cold water rinse only, however. This would explain why the water appears to flow normally when it fills during the wash, and only trickles when it rinses. If you live in an area that has hard water, or if you use well water, these valves commonly clog with sediment. You can shut off the water, remove the hoses, and attempt to clean the sediment screens to see if the water flow improves. If it doesn't, you will need to replace the valve. The following link epxlains how:
I know the link says this is for a Kenmore or Whirlpool, but also applies to a Roper. A replacement valve can be ordered on line at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in the model number and the part you need is located under the "Controls and Rear Panel" heading as item number 18 (part #285805). This is a very simple and inexpensive fix if you wish to perform the repairs youself. Not to mention, you can potentially will save hundreds by avoiding the labor charges of a service call. I hope this helps you. If you require additional assistance, please let me know. Hopefully, a good cleaning will do and you won't require parts.
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This advice is for all Whirlpool manufactured TOP LOADING washing machines. This includes Kenmore, Estate and Roper models as well. This is an easy repair that anyone with a little know-how and determination can perform.
First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. The washer may have release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up.
If not equipped with this type of console, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place. Now you will need to perform the following steps:
1. Under the console you will find the white plastic lid switch connector plug. Unplug the switch from the connector.
2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.
3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.
You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame, just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. Some models will have the switch located on the right-hand side of the lid rim opening, while other models will have the switch located adjacent to one of the lid hinges in the rear.
Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:
1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.
2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first (this is the end of the clip with the 90 degree bend), and then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.
3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle BEFORE you reassemble the console. This is easy to forget.
do you have the machine set for cold water rinse? if so, the solenoid that allows the cold water to come into the machine may be malfunctioning. try to see if it will fill in the rinse cycle with hot water? if so, you need to change the water inlet valve.
Following up my comment from yesterday, I took the machine apart and discovered that the black rubber cover on the valve that releases the cold water had perished and cracked, and wasn't opening properly.
I tested the hot and cold solenoids and everything checked out ok. Was just the cold valve sticking.
The wash cycle was working because I was using hot/warm water. As the rinse cycle needs cold water to get started, it was not working and the rinse and spin cycles wouldn't complete.
I have swapped the valves over for now (put the working hot one on the cold side and am using cold water only). It's working while I order a replacement...