If you haven't gotten a solution yet, I did this myself. It is pretty hard to remove the spring that is holding the gasket in place. Once you do that, just replace the gasket and reattach the ring w/spring.
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i think your talking about the rubber door seal????
you can change this yourself,,,under the seal on the case is a wire spring unhook it and the door seal will fold inside the washer,,,on the inner drum you will find the other wire spring undo this as well and pull the old door seal out through the hole in the door,,,the new seal is fitted to the iner drun first so you need to turn the new seal inside out to fit it,,,push the seal into the washer and fit the inner wire first then unfold the seal and fit it over the outer door so you can fit the wire spring,,,
easy after you have fitted a fuw 100?
If it has drum brakes, you'll need to take off the center dust cap, remove the cotter pin, remove the nut and washer holding the drum on. The outer bearing should fall out, the inner bearing usually stays in the drum, due to the grease seal. With the front bearing and washer off, put the drum back on and install the nut, then pull the drum, allowing to the nut to catch the inner bearing as you pull off the drum, and that should leave the inner bearing and seal on the spindle. Pack the new bearings with grease, install the inner one in the drum and tap in the grease seal in place, but the drum back on and install the outer bearing on the spindle, the wash, nut, cotter pin and dust cover. Tighten the nut snug and turn the drum a few times and snug up the nut. Don't overtighten it.
It was a sock wedged between the lip of the spinning drum and the outer (stationary) drum casing. I managed to ease it out with some pliers - rotating the drum and pulling. Be careful though not to nick the door seal (as I did). It may be a better strategy to get the door seal off and then remove the obstruction. I'm about to find out how easy/hard/fiddly it is to get a new door seal onto this machine!
after u remove the bolts that hold it to the window regulator tip the window towards the front of the door and the top rear corner of the window should pop out and then u just lift hte window out,hope this helps
Hello Friend, This problem is real common in Hotpoint/GE dryers. Your solution is simple. You need to replace the front drum bearing and glider pads. It's actually pretty simple to do. Just remove front of dryer cabinet. After removal just look at backside of dryer front around the inner door. You will see where the dryer drum has turned and wore a hole in the plastic piece above the dryer door. This piece is called the front drum bearing. Just unsnap this piece and snap in a new one. Be sure to replace the little plastic glide pads onto the top of the drum bearing before re-installing the dryer cabinet front. The front drum bearing and glider pads are sold seperately so make sure you have everything you need before you begin. This should solve your problem. Happy to help, Tim. Thanks.
Hello Friend, Your solution is simple. You need to replace the front drum bearing and glider pads. It's actually pretty simple to do. Just remove front of dryer cabinet. After removal just look at backside of dryer front around the inner door. You will see where the dryer drum has turned and wore a hole in the plastic piece above the dryer door. This piece is called the front drum bearing. Just unsnap this piece and snap in a new one. Be sure to replace the little plastic glide pads onto the top of the drum bearing before re-installing the dryer cabinet front. The front drum bearing and glider pads are sold seperately so make sure you have everything you need before you begin. This should solve your problem. Happy to help, Tim.
Unplug the machine first! Open the door and look around th edge of the seal. You will see a plastic clip, where the two ends engage (like crocodile teeth), prise it out toward you with a flatbladed screwdriver. Unpeel the seal frm around the door. Hold the top of the seal inside where it is attached to the drum and lift it slightly, then just pull it off. You will see it is held on with a big circular spring. Getting the new seal on is a pain. It must lip onto the plastic outer drum and will take patience to feed it on, not to say sore fingers! Once on, fold it intowards the drum and then you have to stretch the spring back onto the seal...more sore fingers. Maybe someone can hold it while you feed it aound (make sure also you have fitted the seal the right way up!). Finally, attach the outer lip onto the lip of the machine and reattach the outer plastic clip. Good luck!!!!!!!!
You can replace the rubber door seal yourself if you are logically minded and are handy with tools. Isolate the washer from the mains supply. Remove the top fixing screws at the back of the washer. Slide the top of the washer to the rear of the washer and remove. Now you will be able to see the outer drum and the securing band to the drum. This needs loosening and moving clear of the outer drum so you can disconnect the seal from the drum. When you open the door, you will find see that the door seal connects to the washer outer body. You should see a holding catch probably made of plastic. This has to be removed and take care not to break anything. When re fitting the seal,you will find on the front inner edge a small hole, this must be in the 6 o'clock position. Working from the door access, feed the new seal on the outer drum and secure it with the retaining band that you removed earlier, at this stage do not fully tighten as you may need to readjust the seal later on. Now working at the door, feed on the door seal and position the small hole at 6 o'clock. If you find that the seal is twisting, then you will have to readjust the the seal on the inner outer drum. When everything is lined up, tighten the inner securing band then the outer retaining band by the door. Recheck that the small hole on the door inner lip is at 6 o'clock and both the door an outer drum securing bands are tight. This done, check for leaks by part filling the washer and then putting the washer on an emptying cycle. If all is well, then isolate the power to the washer and refit the the top of the washer and secure with the screws you removed earlier. On no account put your hands or tools inside the washer when it is on and connected to the power supply.
I have not yet replaced a door seal on your model of washer, but I have done quite a few and the process is the same. I hope you can follow these instructions and if you come across a snag, think about it and i am sure you will find the solution. You can always get to me at FixYa.
I just found a service release number for my Frigidaire dishwasher that says it applies to Serial numbers TH632 through serial number TH737 made in 2007 for a replacement kit for the door seal at the bottom of the door. The bottom door seal has been changed, adding side seals that restrict the water surge from the center spray arm. The part number for the new seal is p/n 154588201. This seal can be replaced without removing the dishwasher or either of the door panels. The seal is located on the bottom of the inner door panel and appears as a cream colored flexible rubber blade bonded to a milky white colored plastic strip. To remove and properly install replacement follow the instructions carefully. 1. Replacing this seal can be accomplished without disconnecting power from the unit. Always use extra care when electrical power is present while serving an appliance. 2. Open door all the way down and remove lower rack. Set rack aside to a safe location. 3. Locate the seal on the bottom of inner door panel. Facing front of unit, the right side of the seal can be pulled down slightly to facilitate removal. 4. Pull seal straight into the tub from right side. 5. With seal removed, and before installing replacement seal, locate the channel in inner door panel that the seal mounts into. Locating this channel before installing the replacement can make this procedure easier. SERVICE FLASH DW071 6. Place the new seal on a flat surface and measure from the bottom of the seal, (See Figure 1 to determine bottom of seal), up 3/8 "of an inch and place a mark with a pen or marker on both ends (See Figure 2). If needed, scribe a straight line between these two marks this will give you a guide when installing seal into the inner door panel. 7. The seal can only be installed one way. The end that holds this seal into the inner door panel has a ½ inch notch cut in the right side. This notch allows the seal to be installed around the end of the inner door channel that holds the seal. 8. Line up the seal along the bottom of the inner door panel and start from the right side, push the seal into the door channel to the line marked in step #6. 9. With seal in place close the door, the tub will align the seal as needed. 10. Reinstall lower rack and operate unit to check for leaks. If leaks continue to occur at the bottom corners, order Splash shield kit 154701001 for dishwasher.
Before installing the kit remove and reinstall the lower door seal. To install the lower seal make sure you measure up from the bottom of the seal 3/8 of an inch and mark the seal, do this on both ends. This locates how far down the seal needs to be before closing the door. Do not install this seal without measuring it first. After the lower door seal has been re-installed then install the splash shields according to the instructions accompanying with the kit.