Question about Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Receive code "dc"...water will not drain and tub will not spin properly

"dc" code appears with 11 minutes remaining in cycle

have tried adjusting clothing, resetting circuit breaker, and paid $55 for a service call. next step is a control board..$180 plus labor. any suggestions??

Posted by on

  • 1 more comment 
  • ccooper324 Jan 11, 2009

    my maytag neptune tl is only 5 months old and just last week it started with the dc" code. I have straightened out the clothing and seems like if it is a light load, it codes again, if i just start it over altogether sometimes will finish.

  • ccooper324 Jan 11, 2009

    my maytag neptune tl has been a dream(for about 5 months)- until last week when i began to get "dc" codes- mostly on light loads, but has happened on others too. I have gone as far as just starting teh load over and sometimes it works...any suggestions?

  • dh1200s
    dh1200s Jan 11, 2009

    I had the same problem....



    If it’s the FAV6800A or FAV9800A it will get worse just give a few more loads, this site and many other swlf-help sites show that this is a chronic problem with this model. The good news it can be maintenance back to life with little cost if it is similar to my issue, see my posting below. If you handy and can put in the time give it a try. I got my $1K back to life with some WD-40, $5 dollar purchase. See my posting below.

×

2 Answers

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Expert
  • 335 Answers

This is my failure resolution with DC/UC error codes a common problem with this model;

I just did a repair on my FAV6800AAW by lubricating the needle bearings in the clutch pulley hub, the tub displacement sensor checked OK per the service manual check. I was getting dc/uc errors in the spin cycle, washer was purchased in 7/05. I have basic mechanical skills and used a socket wrench to remove clutch pulley hub, just follow the service manual removal steps to remove clutch pulley hub. Pull the plastic cover off the clutch pulley hub and inspect the spring, clean/lube needle bearings and the clutch hub coupler that drives spinner shaft. I used WD40 I may need to re-lube down the road with a good light grease. It took a few tries for me to get the clutch pulley hub to stay on after re-install and power up, getting the clutch pulley seated properly is the trick. I did not remove the washer tub for this fix, I believe I saw a posting where someone did. I just leaned the washer back to get a better reach angle, it is a tight work area. I did not want to junk 3.5 yr old $1k machine with out trying a fix. If you want to work on this model get the service manual, I found it online and I believe you can order it in PDF format from Maytag. Good luck!

I just went thru my 10th load of a mix of light, medium and heavy loads and all work fine no unbalance errors (DC/UC). Doesn’t fix the tangle problem :) Prior to this fix I could only run the washer with no clothes in it to complete a cycle with no dc/uc error codes.

I found a Service repair manual on this site search for this; FAV6800 Manual



Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

Had the same problem a few months ago. the drain pump was clogged with string and would not run. when this happens the cycle stops at 11 min. check to see if the impeller on the pump moves freely

Posted on Dec 25, 2008

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

I have a Whirlpool duet front load washer model # GHW9150PWD. I have an error code of F 02 and SUD. I have so far cleaned the filter and the lines, replaced the pump, replaced the water pressure swith and...


6 - 1
DIAGNOSIS & TROUBLESHOOTING
SUDS DETECTION
During Drain Routine
During the Drain Routine, the water level is checked continuously. Normal drain will occur until the
pressure switch senses no water in the wash tub and there is no foam (suds). The drain pump will
operate an additional 15 seconds after the pressure switch reports no water or foam.
If the drain routine operates for four (4) minutes and the pressure switch senses any foam (suds) in
the wash tub, the Central Control Unit will start the "Kill-Foam" Routine. (See description of this
Routine below.) After the Kill-foam Routine is concluded, the Drain Routine will restart. If, after
four (4) minutes the pressure switch still senses foam in the wash tub, the Central Control Unit will
go into Failure Mode. The digital display will show, F02.
During Spin (Extract) Routine
During the Spin/Extract Routine the water level is checked continuously. If, during this routine, the
pressure switch senses the presence of foam (suds) in the wash tub, the Central Control Unit will
stop the drive motor and the basket will stop spinning. The electronic control will count the number
of spin repetitions that are attempted due to foam (suds). There are a maximum of three (3)
attempts for each Spin/Extract Routine.
Kill-Foam Routine
1.
The Remaining Time counter is stopped.
2.
The digital display shows Sud.
3.
The Drain Pump is turned OFF.
4.
The Central Control Unit will fill the wash tub with 1 gal. (4 L) of cold water.
5.
While the tub is filling the basket will tumble 1 sec. ON/15 Sec. OFF.
6.
Once the tub is filled, the drive motor will turn OFF and the basket will rest without any
movement for five (5) minutes.
7.
After the five (5) minute rest, the remaining time counter will restart and the digital display
will show the remaining time left in the routine.
NOTE:
If the Kill-Foam routine was initiated during a Spin/Extract Routine, the tumbling action
will be reduced to a cycle of 3 sec. ON/13 sec. OFF. If, at the end of either the Drain or Spin/
Extract Routines, a suds condition still remains, the digital display will show Sud.
Sud will also be displayed for a short period at the end of a cycle, if a Suds condition was
detected during the cycle. This will alert the consumer to reduce the amount of detergent in
subsequent uses MANUAL

Oct 31, 2013 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Final Spin Trouble


Time remaining is not always correct. The machine adjusts it's cycle times for various load conditions, but the display doesn't adjust. Instead it just stays where it was when the machine started making the adjustment. An example would be if you don't use high efficiency (he) detergent. What happens is that regular detergent creates too many suds. When the machine drains the water emptys first leaving a layer of suds. The pump can't move suds because of it's poor design. Try to imagine a hose filled with suds with a small impeller at one end. The impeller can pull the suds immediately around it away but anything out of it's reach will just sit there till they pop.

Likewise, the pressure switch can't detect a lack of pressure because the suds (being ornery little clusters of air) sit in the space that should be occupied by water, or in this case no water. Fooling in effect, the pressure switch into behaving as if the tub still contains water. Once enough bubbles pop the pressure switch will do it's thing and the time display will start where it stopped as does the rest of the cycle, in this case final spin..

So first let's verify that it isn't just a cycle adjustment. About the only way to do that is to see if it will finish the cycle. Unless you just use way too much detergent ten minutes should be way more than enough time for suds to pop or about anything else to correct itself. So next time it occures just wait and see what happens. Maybe it'll give us an error code. Let me know.



Jan 11, 2013 | Kenmore Elite Oasis 27052 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Continue to receive a "DC" code on the Maytap


I no longer post on this site no way to post a Sticky.

If you want to DIY the repair Google this phrase ""Sticky: Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW""" Read the post Part 1; DC or UC unbalance error codes in Spin Cycle what is causing this issue? Part 2 for the fix action.

Post your issue in the repair forum not in the Sticky. Please include your Model Number i.e. FAV6800A or FAV9800A and I will help you.

Jan 22, 2011 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Have a Whirlpool Duet that shakes on spinning


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Feb 28, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite HE3 Washer 2 Hour 'Normal" wash cycle


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Jan 20, 2010 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Haier xqg50 will not dry; It runs the full wash cycle, and will actually run the dry cycle, but the clothes come out comletely soaked. Ran the full 120 minute dry cycle three times, and the clothes were...


The clothes are wet after spinning When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler Spin cycle Siphoning Water-inlet valve Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

Jan 11, 2010 | Haier XQG50-11 Front Load Washer / Dryer

1 Answer

Frigidaire (LTF2940E) Washer starts, stops, starts, stops...


The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

May 07, 2009 | Frigidaire GLTF2940ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE prodigy washer Water remains in the bottom of the basin after teh cycle has ended


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Apr 30, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Maytag Neptune Tl washer


Mike, Sorry to hear that, is there any water around the clutch pulley?  With the front panel removed and you put the washer in a Spin Only cycle with no clothes in the wash basket.  View the Clutch pulley turning CCW and see if is turning true with no wobble? Mine spun off twice before I got it seated properly, and it was in wobble mode until I got it seated properly.   With the water leak issue maybe you can view with the front panel off and a partial fill the leak source. You can always do a quick tub pump out in service mode. As you know unplug the 120VAC to the machine before you poke around in there.  Do you still have the original clutch?  Did you remove the plastic cover and inspect the roller bearings, clutch spring and coupler? Good luck and let’s see what you find. Rich




Mar 11, 2009 | Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore HE4T


There is a water pump in the machine which pumps the water out of the outer tub and into the drain, after the wash and rinse cycles.
It is possible that this pump isn't working properly. I think if it weren't working at all, you wouldn't be able to get beyond the wash cycle.

It has been my experience that small articles of clothing may get washed or spun out of the inner tub and into the area around the pump pick up, thus partially blocking the flow to the pump.
It's also possible that the drain hose from the pump to the drain may be partially clogged.
It is also possible that the pump doesn't run sufficiently long to get all of the water out because its' motor gets hot and shuts down or because of a problem in the control mechanism which manages the the starting and run time of the pump.

First, I would unplug the washer from the wall outlet and probe under the inner tub, or possibly remove the tub to see that there is no blockage from clothing.
It's also possible that things left in clothing pockets like paper clips, small plastic items, etc. can get into the pump and lock up the impeller.
If you're sure it isn't blocked you can then run a "short cycle", no load and water only, and watch to see how much water comes out of the discharge hose where it's hung on the drain pipe.
It should gush out, and tub should be free of standing water prior to the start of the first rinse cycle.
If it does not, then you'll have to access the pump and clear it of obstructions or replace it, if defective.

As it drains, it should start spinning slowly, then speed up as it drains; the final portion of the spin cycle is very fast.
Essentially, the spinning tub wrings out the clothes using centrifugal force.

With the water remaining in the bottom of the tub, it would appear that it is:
a) not spinning long enough, or
b) there is something preventing all the water from getting out in the time allotted by the timer to perform this task.


A fair handy man can get to pump either from the rear of the machine with back plate off, or by removing the cabinet cover from the frame, depending on the model of the the machine.

As always - before attempting any repair, UNPLUG THE UNIT!



When clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these:

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

Siphoning
If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Nov 10, 2008 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE4t Front Load Washer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Maytag Neptune FAV6800AW Top Load Washer Logo

305 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Maytag Washing Machines Experts

Richard Roth
Richard Roth

Level 3 Expert

9472 Answers

Al Clark

Level 2 Expert

290 Answers

Todd Marr
Todd Marr

Level 2 Expert

77 Answers

Are you a Maytag Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...