I just installed this furnace and I get the main burners to light for only about 3 seconds, I tried juming the pressure switch with the two grey wire and still the burners only stay on for a few seconds. The led light stays on steady for normal operation
/* Style Definitions */
mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt;
font-family:"Times New Roman";
Goodman vertical forced air 69,000 BTU gas furnaceGMH950703BX
My gas furnace has a small to big problem. When the t-stat
calls for heat the furnace clicks, The vent motor blower comes on, the ceramic electric
igniter comes on, the gas to the burners start to flow then it like
misfires" or “burps several times” like gas is there but not enough or
something like that, hard to explain".Then the main gas source stops and the vent bower runs back up and
ignition glows and tries the cycle again. The furnace then will start this
process over and most of the time it takes like 40 times before it fires and 10%
of the time runs normal.The light on
the controller board (Emerson) stays solid lit.No blinking indicating a problem.
Steps to resolve:
the pvc exhaust pip to see if there was any back pressure on the exhaust
at that level.– No change in
status.Did seem to increase maybe
the likely hood of an eventual long burn cycle.It appears that if its going there is a
chance that reconnecting it makes the gas flow stop.
removed and the top door opened, this did not seem to have an impact.
the lower door and this seemed to help a little bit but not much.Longer burns to 45 seconds then shut
the Gas Flame sensor and cleaned lightly with steal wool and
reinstalled.No change in status.
top ground green lug, attached on burner flange assembly.No change in status.
continuity on gas flame sensor wire from sensor to controller..02 on meter
open exhaust is present the system definitely works longer. While burner
is running lit, slowly place hand on exhaust port and that appears to trip
it in the same manner when its fully exhausted.
two pressure switches are as follows: (35) parts diagram = B1370158
connected to low end of “Flue collector Box Kit” – -0.37 PFSN:20197312model:9371VO-HS-0016
connected to 11:am on the “Vent Motor Housing”- 0 95PFSN: 0130F00002PModel:9371VO-HS-0097
to Econotemp ( a local DIY HVAC contractor that allows for the public) and
they felt it was being obstructed for exhaust via water accumulation in
the Flue Collector box.Further
research of similar Goodman manuals, including mine, show that the tan
elbow with the orifices for condensation being on the tail extension and
not on the upper inside elbow location that was currently hooked up.Disassembled the vent motor from the
flue collector box and had about ½ cup of water sitting in the black
plastic fan housing.Examination of
the tan exhaust condensate assembly reveals a poor design.The drain in a vertical position, likely
95% of the time, should be on the long tail and not on the upper inner
elbow.The small upper condensate
drain is inter-connected to the long tail inside the tan elbow housing and
is not readily visible.This would
allow for condensate that comes back down on the center edge of the pipe
to catch and the condensate that takes the easiest route of least
resistance to go into the long tail. If the water rises in the tail it would
have to flow over the spillway into the vent motor housing if it is not
drained at the bottom of the leg which has no orifice.Therefore decided to back/re-engineer
the drain system with quantity 2 - 1.2 brass barbs- one being male threaded the other
female and aviator straps with clear hose to the regular existing
drain.Ended with the old black
condensate hose not being used.Tested and it did not back fire “burp” once.Further time testing needed to see if
condensate stays out of the vent motor housing.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
could be an issue with the flame sensor. it sends a signal to main board once all burners have ignited. either, the flame sensor needs to be cleaned with steel wool, or the board isn't receiving the proper 3-5 milliamps. should be a flashing led light that tells you what error is present
If the burners of your furnace light and go out after approximately 5 seconds, the problem is most likely with the Flame Sensor. The Flame Sensor will develop a light coating that will prevent it from sending a "proof" signal back to the main board. If the main board does not receive this "proof" signal, it will shut off the gas valve. After 3 attempts, it will lock out leaving only the draft inducer motor running. Here is a video demonstrating how to identify and clean the flame sensor to get your furnace back to running normally in only a few minutes.
If your central heaters main burner comes on for a few seconds and goes right off this could help you. First you will need some steel wool (not a SOS pad) and a 1/4 nut driver. Turn the Heater OFF. Locate the sensor near the burner, it will have only one wire to it, also often yellow or white. The sensor is usually L shaped. Take the 1/4 screw out and remove the sensor and gently clean with the steal wool. This solves this problem 97% of the time.
A certain sequence of events has to occur to start normal operation. My furnace would start the stack blower which would then run forever without the furnace starting up. The service tech replaced the stack blower controller and the ignitor to get things running right again. Remember that some stages of startup are temperature dependent. For example, the burner has to heat the bonnet enough to close a thermal switch and turn on the main.blower.
The first thing I would do is make sure the flame sensor is clean, this is a metal rod immersed in the burner flame on the opposite side of the igniter. If too much oxidation builds up on it, it will not allow the burner to stay lit. To clean, just turn off furnace and remove flame sensor and clean with steel wool and then reinstall. If this does not solve the problem there may be a problem with the gas valve.
Can you confirm that your gas pressure/ supply is correct-- by lighting all of the range top burners at the same time-- Do they all light quickly, and burn to full height, without much of any yellowing at the flame tips? That should indicate you have god gas pressure and supply.
Now-- in the Oven itself- When you light the BROIL burner-- does it's glow ignitor light up, and does that burner light off OK?
If it is only the main oven burner that is not lighting, are you able to remove the cover plate that covers it, and watch it light off? -- Any clues on whether or not the gas valve even open?
If NO gas flow, likely you need a new Main Oven Gas Valve-- Probably need to call your Gas Appliance service person.
It sounds like you got a tough one there.When you say the blower starts up and then the igniter comes on are you refering to induced draft motor or main blower. The proper sequence is for the thermostat to call for heat at which point the induced draft motor should come on and run for 30-45 seconds,then the igniter should heat up for a few seconds then gas valve should open and main burner should light. After limit switch reaches set point for fan on ,blower should come on till after heat has reached thermostat setting then burner should go out, and blower run until fan off setting is reached on limit switch. If your furnace is not following this sequence and then not always doing the same thing in the same order,I would recommend that you change out board again. I have had several problems similar to this with Goodman units and all but one time installing new board solved it. That time I did everything I knew to do and talked to factory service techs repeatedly and finally installed new furnace. As far as your question about insulation,. As long as it is fire proof I can't see where it would hurt anything. Sorry I'm not more help. Good luck and thanks.
May have a dirty flame rod. Look in the burner box at either the far right or far left for a probe that sticks in the flame of a burner. There will be only one wire going to it. This rod is a safety sensor that shuts off the gas if it does not sense flame within a few seconds. If you brush off the rod with a toothbrush or Scotch Brite pad it may take care of your problem. If not, make sure the flame travels from burner to burner quickly. The burner tray may need to be brushed off.
dIf the burners are only staying on for about 5 seconds, you proably hav e a dirty flame sensor. Watch the burners light, the glow plug will light one end of the burners, in front of the last burner to light the will be a small thin rod, this rod must sense the flame or the gas will be shut down. Take a piece of steel wool and gently cleqan the rod.