Question about Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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Gmh950904cxac burner on for a few sec.

I just installed this furnace and I get the main burners to light for only about 3 seconds, I tried juming the pressure switch with the two grey wire and still the burners only stay on for a few seconds. The led light stays on steady for normal operation

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My gas furnace has a small to big problem. When the t-stat calls for heat the furnace clicks, The vent motor blower comes on, the ceramic electric igniter comes on, the gas to the burners start to flow then it like misfires" or “burps several times” like gas is there but not enough or something like that, hard to explain". Then the main gas source stops and the vent bower runs back up and ignition glows and tries the cycle again. The furnace then will start this process over and most of the time it takes like 40 times before it fires and 10% of the time runs normal. The light on the controller board (Emerson) stays solid lit. No blinking indicating a problem.

Steps to resolve:

  1. Disconnected the pvc exhaust pip to see if there was any back pressure on the exhaust at that level. – No change in status. Did seem to increase maybe the likely hood of an eventual long burn cycle. It appears that if its going there is a chance that reconnecting it makes the gas flow stop.
  2. Intake removed and the top door opened, this did not seem to have an impact.
  3. Removed the lower door and this seemed to help a little bit but not much. Longer burns to 45 seconds then shut down.
  4. Removed the Gas Flame sensor and cleaned lightly with steal wool and reinstalled. No change in status.
  5. Filed top ground green lug, attached on burner flange assembly. No change in status.
  6. Checked continuity on gas flame sensor wire from sensor to controller. .02 on meter
  7. When open exhaust is present the system definitely works longer. While burner is running lit, slowly place hand on exhaust port and that appears to trip it in the same manner when its fully exhausted.
  8. The two pressure switches are as follows: (35) parts diagram = B1370158
Left side connected to low end of “Flue collector Box Kit” – -0.37 PF SN:20197312 model: 9371VO-HS-0016
Right side connected to 11:am on the “Vent Motor Housing” - 0 95PF SN: 0130F00002P Model: 9371VO-HS-0097


  1. Went to Econotemp ( a local DIY HVAC contractor that allows for the public) and they felt it was being obstructed for exhaust via water accumulation in the Flue Collector box. Further research of similar Goodman manuals, including mine, show that the tan elbow with the orifices for condensation being on the tail extension and not on the upper inside elbow location that was currently hooked up. Disassembled the vent motor from the flue collector box and had about ½ cup of water sitting in the black plastic fan housing. Examination of the tan exhaust condensate assembly reveals a poor design. The drain in a vertical position, likely 95% of the time, should be on the long tail and not on the upper inner elbow. The small upper condensate drain is inter-connected to the long tail inside the tan elbow housing and is not readily visible. This would allow for condensate that comes back down on the center edge of the pipe to catch and the condensate that takes the easiest route of least resistance to go into the long tail. If the water rises in the tail it would have to flow over the spillway into the vent motor housing if it is not drained at the bottom of the leg which has no orifice. Therefore decided to back/re-engineer the drain system with quantity 2 - 1.2 brass barbs - one being male threaded the other female and aviator straps with clear hose to the regular existing drain. Ended with the old black condensate hose not being used. Tested and it did not back fire “burp” once. Further time testing needed to see if condensate stays out of the vent motor housing.

Posted on Oct 29, 2008

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Sounds like a problem with the flame rod. small silver rod that sits by end burner and detects a flame.

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

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Our Gibson KG7TC060D24B "tries" to start, but the shuts off before ignition. Technicians have replaced the control panel and other components but the problem persists, with the furnace working for a few...


This is possible, however it is possible they are missing something simple. I hope you can follow along.
1) Is this a Sealed Combustion Furnace, meaning you cannot get to the burners even after you remove the Door Panels?

2) If yes, is this furnace vented with pvc/plastic piping?
3) If yes, do both pipes go outside?
4) If yes then try this.

1) Turn the main power off to the furnace
2) Remove the Door Panel to the burner section.
3) Turn Furnace back and turn the thermostat all the way up.
4)Look into the burner compartment and tell me if the igniter glows red. If it does and the goes out with the burners not coming on.

5) If you feel comfortable or know of someone that is.
6) Turn the furnace off, remove the panel that conceals the burner compartment.

7) Turn the furnace on, if the igniter glows red and the burners ignite. Your problem is in the venting system. Most likely the intake pipe if it goes outside. It could be plugged or something is blocking it. If the burners do not ignite the next thing to make sure that is happening is that the Exhaust blower is operating and you can feel air outside where the pipe terminates. If you it is but no very strong, then your problem could be the inducer motor or to small of vent pipe.

If you could, send me some information about how it starts up
1) Main blower may come on and shut off, make sure the blower runs in on position 1st then back to Auto position. If it does not, you have another problem.

2) The Exhaust blower should come on next
3) About 17secs. later the igniter should glow red.
4) You will here the gas valve make a click
5) The Burners will ignite
6) The flame sensor rod on the far left hand side of the burner will keep the burner lit. If it is dirty the burners will shutdown.
7)About 90secs. later the main blower will come on.

Oct 26, 2013 | Gibson KG7TC060D24B 60,000 BTU 95.1% Gas...

Tip

Gas Furnace Lights for 5 seconds and shuts off - it will do this 3 times


If the burners of your furnace light and go out after approximately 5 seconds, the problem is most likely with the Flame Sensor. The Flame Sensor will develop a light coating that will prevent it from sending a "proof" signal back to the main board. If the main board does not receive this "proof" signal, it will shut off the gas valve. After 3 attempts, it will lock out leaving only the draft inducer motor running. Here is a video demonstrating how to identify and clean the flame sensor to get your furnace back to running normally in only a few minutes.


on Mar 20, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Janitrol GUPS075-3 Furnace burners will not stay lit


The first thing I would do is make sure the flame sensor is clean, this is a metal rod immersed in the burner flame on the opposite side of the igniter. If too much oxidation builds up on it, it will not allow the burner to stay lit. To clean, just turn off furnace and remove flame sensor and clean with steel wool and then reinstall. If this does not solve the problem there may be a problem with the gas valve.

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2 Answers

I have a Goodman gas furnance. The furmance kicks on the glow rod lights and then the furnance shuts down after about 60 seconds it goes through the same cycle. The burners never come on. What's wrong?


Let's trouble shoot a few possibilities:

Can you confirm that your gas pressure/ supply is correct-- by lighting all of the range top burners at the same time-- Do they all light quickly, and burn to full height, without much of any yellowing at the flame tips? That should indicate you have god gas pressure and supply.

Now-- in the Oven itself-
When you light the BROIL burner-- does it's glow ignitor light up, and does that burner light off OK?

If it is only the main oven burner that is not lighting, are you able to remove the cover plate that covers it, and watch it light off? -- Any clues on whether or not the gas valve even open?

If NO gas flow, likely you need a new Main Oven Gas Valve-- Probably need to call your Gas Appliance service person.

Let us know if this helped

Mack B

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I have a Rheem Furance that has turned off. Just a few hours ago the main fan turned off. The Furnace doesnm't light even the draft fan does turn on and then the main fan blower motor turns on. I can hear...


You will need to reset the furnace by turning the power off to it. Then as the furnace tries to light, watch the LED for blinking. Hopefully it will give a code other than 1. Try checking the air filter for blockage, make sure all hoses are free of moisture and any drains are not blocked. Check the air intake and exhaust pipe for sags where water could block it.

The sequence of operation is this:
Thermostat calls for heat, the LED may blink telling you it registers the call. The inducer (exhaust) blower starts closing contacts in the pressure switch (small disc shaped thing), the igniter glows orange (seen thru a small window high up on furnace front), gas valve opens allowing main burner to light, flame travels to all other burners, flame rod senses flame within a few seconds and keeps gas on. Room air blower starts within 90 seconds.

Any deviation or delay in this sequence and it goes into lock-out.

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If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning.

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1 Answer

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It sounds like you got a tough one there.When you say the blower starts up and then the igniter comes on are you refering to induced draft motor or main blower. The proper sequence is for the thermostat to call for heat at which point the induced draft motor should come on and run for 30-45 seconds,then the igniter should heat up for a few seconds then gas valve should open and main burner should light. After limit switch reaches set point for fan on ,blower should come on till after heat has reached thermostat setting then burner should go out, and blower run until fan off setting is reached on limit switch. If your furnace is not following this sequence and then not always doing the same thing in the same order,I would recommend that you change out board again. I have had several problems similar to this with Goodman units and all but one time installing new board solved it. That time I did everything I knew to do and talked to factory service techs repeatedly and finally installed new furnace. As far as your question about insulation,. As long as it is fire proof I can't see where it would hurt anything. Sorry I'm not more help. Good luck and thanks.

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Between the burners is a small rail in the pressed steel where the flame runs across to light the other burners and it sounds like there is dirt or debris in the step over rails causing the problem. You will need to use some compressed air on those rails to clear them out. Once the rails are clear the other two burners should ignite right away.

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1 Answer

Oven has small explosion igniting and going off. says tj


A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

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