Model: Kenmore 596.72254200 (6yrs, 3mos old) - The problem seems most similar to kenore elite bottom freezer, top fridge stopped cooling, but that solution hasn't helped me. I noticed frost along evaporator at back of freezer, so I performed a manual defrost and it began to work, although I expect the problem to recur. After some online and hands on diagnosis, I believe its either the thermostat (P/N 12001937), the evaporator (P/N 12001919) or timer (P/N ???). Possible, though less likely is the heater (P/N 67001085).
I can't find the timer. Is it integral with the thermostat in this model? If not, where is the timer so I can determine if that's the problem?
How can I diagnose between whether the problem is the thermostat or the evaporator (in this model)?
If in the end, this requires me to replace the evaporator, any recos on how to connect to the Cu tubing?
Any help is appreciated. The back of the (internal) freezer compartment is now exposed, so it's easy to work on. I just hate to diagnose a problem by replacing parts.
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Re: Bottom freezer works; Top fridge too warm
The defrost timer is about 6 inches square and about 2 inches thick. It could be located under the box, in front or back. Some models of Whirlpool and Kenmore locate it behind the cover over the light inside the box. Westinghouse is often inside the cooler compartment, in the top. Some Gibson boxes put it in the back, about chest high. It's often hidden, but every self-defrosting refrigerator has one, except for a few models of Whirlpool and Kenmore with factory-installed ice makers — these models have an icemaker which also has the defrost timer built into it.
The timer will have a stem that protrudes, or may be flush, which you can turn using a large blade screwdriver. Mark the position with a pencil, then turn it until it "clicks." This should start the defrost mode. The defrost mode will continue for 10 to 30 minutes, depending on the design. If after 20 minutes, the refrigerator has not restarted, or the timer stem has not moved, the timer is bad.
When replacing the timer, you must use the correct one. There are about a dozen different configurations with even more types of connections. I suggest you order the part by make, model number, and serial number of your refrigerator to make sure you get the right one. Depending on your brand, and where you purchase the part, the price may be from $20 to $40 for this part.
You can test the termostat,just see if the fridge goes on and off..
If it goes off then the defrost heater sould go on.
The best way is to replace both the timer and thermostat...
if a evaporator gives any problems then the fridge wont cool down.
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dear Bill if its a no frost refigerator sounds like you might have to take all the drwars out unscrew or detach the back plate and defrost the fridge manually and then unblock the drain hole which goes to the back of the fridge into a plastick container ontop of the compressor which in turn will evaporate from the heat of the compressor . Hope this does the trick .. good luck. Tony
No, it is not a failed condenser. You need to see if the compressor is running though. When it runs you shaould have a fan in the freezer running, a fan underneath the fridge running, and the compressor should be running. I would be willing to bet that either the compressor is bad, or the start relay on the compressor.
I have a similar problem, although I have no cooling in the fridge section. Had a repair man indicate that the electrical panal(pcb board) needs to be replaced. It is on order ($200). Sure hope that is the issue. To me, it appeared that the freezer fan(which cools the fridge) was not working. Whether that is the result of a faulty electrical panal is yet to be determined. Good luck!
first check that you can hear a fan in the freezer..if the fan is running you have a defrost problem or a plugged drain... to get it to work temporary defrost
the freezer. Unplug the refrigerator, open the door and get a blow
dryer and warm up the freezer. wait until the water stop dripping out
or about 12 to 24 hours and then you can plug it back in . it will work
for 2 to 3 weeks.
To unplug the drain.defrost the freezer .remove the back cover. Use a pipe cleaner to clear the drain. pour a few cups of hot water down the drain.
The defrost systems is:
HEATER-DEFROST THERMOSTAT-DEFROST TIMER-DEFROST
Start with the timer. It is just under the front kick plate. there
is a knob you can turn it slowly.until it clicks off the compressor.
then open the freezer and listen . You should hear the heater come
on .. it will sizzle when it comes on ...
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the
heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely
part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.
just called in a sears technician 150 dollar bill that was an easy fix.
he says my bottom freezer kenmore fridge with warm fridge problem was
due to the pathway being blocked by ice and garbage which is common
with these fridges. he took off cover from the fridge bottom and poured
boiling water down to the freezer. try that before you replace any
parts or call in a tech. next time im getting a top freezer because the
blower is on the top not in the middle with the bottom freezers and
thus more problem prone.
I faced the same problem for Kenmore elite Trio Model # 795.77543600 bottom freezer refrigerator. The issue as pointed out by Medeer on fixya.com, turned out to be the part called component assembly, part number 6615JB2005H. I got this replaced yesterday but for 4 hours I did not notice any cooling... so I thought it did not work.... but then in the morning I notice that the issue has been resolved, the refrigerator is cold and there is no eR dH error message. Thanks to all who shared on this site.