Question about Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked Washer/Dryer

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Kenmore Model No. 110.98575120 stacked washer/dryer

One of the two springs on the washer has come loose and I cannot locate where it was attached to the frame. The two springs appear to keep the washer bowl stable.

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SOURCE: Dryer venting

Click here to get some literature for your washer/dryer. Pick the exact model you have and check the pdf files.

Posted on Jul 10, 2008

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: What year was the kenmore 110 98575120 made?

1998

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Posted on Sep 10, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: F11 code dryer stacked on top of washer can not ...

"F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU). The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU. Now check the following:

- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.

In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.


NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

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Posted on Sep 29, 2010

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The suspension plate should be loose and float between the frame and base. The pin you saw was a shipping pin, they usually are caught in a little plastic cup attached to the base but sometimes fall to the floor, this is normal too. The tub being loose is normal for the top, it is held down by the springs below the tub but nothing on top. By a loud noise, what kind of noise is it? If it is a very loud ratcheting noise when it slows down then the basket drive(spin tube) and block need to be replaced. If it is a growling noise then that is pump and may be normal if the basket is not spinning. If this is the case look very close for an article of clothing caught between the tub and basket.

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1. Make sure the bellow is firmly seated all the way around the perimeter of the door frame.

2. Begin inserting the wire hoop into the groove, starting at the twelve o' clock position.

3. Work your way around the four and eight o'clock positions. While maintaining some downward pressure to keep the hoop inserted in the groove, pull the spring apart and snap the wire hoop back in place.

A second set of hands may come in handy to hold the hoop in position to get it reseated. Make sure the wire hoop ends up at the 6 o'clock position when you are complete.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: Overloading the washer with heavy items can contribute to premature wear on the bellow and can cause the clamps to come loose.

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1 Answer

My washer front load rubber at the door has pulled away and the wire with spring has come out. the rubber is not torn and i put it back in but i dont know were the wire gos


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1. Make sure the bellow is firmly seated all the way around the perimeter of the door frame.

2. Begin inserting the wire hoop into the groove, starting at the twelve o' clock position.

3. Work your way around the four and eight o'clock positions. While maintaining some downward pressure to keep the hoop inserted in the groove, pull the spring apart and snap the wire hoop back in place.

A second set of hands may come in handy to hold the hoop in position to get it reseated. Make sure the wire hoop ends up at the 6 o'clock position when you are complete.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: Overloading the washer with heavy items can contribute to premature wear on the bellow and can cause the clamps to come loose.

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1 Answer

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1. Make sure the bellow is firmly seated all the way around the perimeter of the door frame.

2. Begin inserting the wire hoop into the groove, starting at the twelve o' clock position.

3. Work your way around the four and eight o'clock positions. While maintaining some downward pressure to keep the hoop inserted in the groove, pull the spring apart and snap the wire hoop back in place.

A second set of hands may come in handy to hold the hoop in position to get it reseated. Make sure the wire hoop ends up at the 6 o'clock position when you are complete.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: Overloading the washer with heavy items can contribute to premature wear on the bellow and can cause the clamps to come loose.

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Hi Bert,

That ring (it has a spring on it, right?) is used to clamp the outside of the rubber boot to the outside of the frame <--- where the door closes.

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The reason? Frankly, I don't know. But the Kenmore/Whirlpool service repair manuals say so! So that's what I do, HA!

Anyway, If you don't replace that clamp and you continue running your washer that boot will dislodge from the front panel. Know what happens then? Call Noah, cause there's gonna be a flood.

Hope this helped you! If so, would you please be kind enough to rate me? Thanks!

SG
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