Range made a loud popping noise, shortly after the wife said the analog clock on the range had stopped. when we tried to use the range neither the burners nor the oven would start. upon investigation the circuit breaker was tripped, after reseting the breaker and unplugging every thing else on the kitchen circuit the range will still trip the breaker when connected to the wall socket. i have plugged other appliances into the outlet and they do NOT trip the breaker. i am looking for a diagram so i can disassemble the unit and use my meter to further diagnose the issue. or if it is one of a couple parts that could be causing the issue i will replace them all. Matt

At the cost of the control board I would suggest getting a service tec, preferably factory certified. If you buy the control board and it is not the problem you still bought it.

You may have a serious electrical problem. Or you may need a new element.

Please provide more info as to the source/location of the smoke.

Brian

Yes. You will have to change the ERC. Usually you can peel off the touch pad cover and re-apply it to the new control board.

Check the thermostat if it shorted to the wall somehow or if the element cracked which can cause that too

Checked the fuse box and found no issue, but switched it on and off. Then replugged in the oven but still got the clicking sounds. However after again repushing the clock reset buttons the clock came back on and clicking stopped.

MAYTAG
Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes Failure
Code Condition Check/Repair F1 Defective touch pad or membrane Replace touch pad or membrane (usually the touch pad)* F1 Watchdog on board Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) F2 Oven too hot Replace relay board (if present) or bad oven temperature sensor F3 or F4 Open or shorted oven temperature sensor Replace oven temperature sensor F5 Hardware and watchdog circuits disagree Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F6 Missing AC signal Check for proper voltage F7 Function key shorted or stuck button Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC) or un-stick button F8 Analog/Digital supervisory Replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F9 Door latch supervisory Check door lock circuit or replace clock assembly (also called the ERC) F0 Function key stuck Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)

if an element itself had shorted it would not stop the other from working and you could inspect each element and see blistering as evidence.the pop you heard has to be in common with both elements but not the cook top[burners]so thats going to be the wiring in the back of range, or switching,[thermostat,clock timer or oven selector switch,depends on which model you have]you will have to pull range and remove back pannels.you will find an obivous burn't connection.too repair all new connections must be clean and tight,or will burn again.

Well on most electronic controlled ranges with the problem your describing alot of time it is the clock that needs replaced. And yes most ovens have 2 ignitors.

If it's an older oven, forget about getting a new clock. Instead, have it removed (or do it yourself, mark wires and of course discontinue using oven) and try your local parts guy to see if he can send it away to have it rebiult. Best case scenario. Either that or have a technician "bypass" it for you.

The magnetron is bad. Probably cost about $50 or $60 for the part. Not too easy to replace, but it can be done.