I've had this receiver for about 5 years, and I like it a lot. It didn't see much heavy use over the years, just mild, on mild volume levels.
Recently after moving the receiver to another house(I was carefull and don't think I bumped it), the output to speakers on the right side stopped working(both on the A and B speakers), I narrowed it down to the receiver itself, since the problem did not transfer when switching cables or speakers.
Anyone seen this before? is this something that can be fixed easily? what am I looking at?
Thanks for any help.
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Re: no right output
When you say it didnt switch when changing cables?? Well if you have no output on the right speaker and you put the left speaker on and still had no output then its your speaker as the problem should have switched from right to left if the problem is in the reciver. Now you could check and see if there are any bent control shafts as this is common durring a move and that would account for the problem or there are internal speaker fuse that may have popped out but this ones doubtfull, or the preamp or main amp printed cuircut board has a crack in them?? If you checked all mof these and need assistance with this repair you can go to the manufactures website to see how and where you can send or take the unit for repair. Good Luck firstname.lastname@example.org
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Cooler than normal discharge air temperatures are kind of nature of the beast for an inverter compressor system. An inverter compressor has essentially an infinitely variable output due the varying speed of the compressor. When is is running slower the transfer of heat is less than when it is running full bore. At least on a mild day. On a cold day, even running at full speed, the leaving air temperature can feel a bit cooler due to the lack or heat available in the outside air to transfer in to the indoor coil. The Mitsubishi's are capable of running down to 5 degrees above zero without the addition of a low ambient control kit and the nearer it is to that temperature, the lower the leaving air temp will be.
There's only about three more 300 page VOLUMNs of information available to describe the function of these little guys, but maybe just a taste of the info will satisfy your concern. Of course what's written above is a very Cliff Notes version with a lot of holes in the description.....but you get the drift.
Your catalytic converter may have disintegrated internally.
If the ceramic element in it has crumbled, it will glue together when cooling down and not impede the exhaust discharge for the first minutes but when hot, the broken pieces can gather at the output end and clog it.
When you notice the bogging down becoming very noticeable, find a safe place to stop and leave the engine idling.
Listen at the tailpipe to learn if you can hear the 'normal' engine firing noises or if it sounds restricted and sounds more like a hiss than the typical 'throbbing' sound.
If so, then the cat is at fault and needs replacement.
I had this problem years ago and the first sign of trouble was a marked improvement in gasoline mileage, probably due to an initial mild increase in back pressure which the engine seemed to like.
As the disease worsened, it fell back drastically and hill-climbing became iffy and coolant temp ran higher than normal.
Frankly, I 'cured' it with a .357 magnum and a couple of rounds into the tailpipe. The whole system was heavy gauge stainless steel and there was only a mild bend from the end to the cat.
It didn't hurt the rest of the system but one could occasionally hear a rattle from the shards. ;-)
Not legal in some states!
As your complaint post indicates, there is a malfunction to its power amplifier output. Proper checking should be done to this stage by anu well experienced service technicians. Most of the components in the section carries high current, and proper care should be given whe repair this stage. Power output section of your amp is faulty, It switches on first without any problem, but after stabilisation, outputs the power to speakers [relay click indicates that]; then detects some short and shuts OFF. Thie is happening now. Get it repaired by any experienced service pwersonnel have experience in serivcing Hi-Watt amps. OK.
If you are checking from one of the stator prongs to engine ground and you get continuity, your stator is bad. It would probably be a good idea to replace the regulator. I think Harley sells a kit that is priced fairly reasonable. But, check the rotor. I've seen one rotor that didn't have any magnetism in it. That's right, It was a genuine Harley part and the rotor had no magnetism in it. It was a friend of mine that put the stator in another guy's bike but it wouldn't charge. I checked everything and found nothing wrong except no output. Pulled it down and that's what we found. We simply put the guy's old rotor on it and it worked fine.
Flush the radiator. Use something like Prestone's radiator flush for cars. then refill with MOTORCYCLE COOLANT. this is important. the manual says you can use any coolant compatible with aluminum radiators. I did this and replaces 2 radiators before I figued it out. if this doesnt work, have the radiator tested. Also, I had a problem with the fan melting and not even knowing it. muzzy's makes a 6blade aluminum fan cheaper than the stock plastic replacement.
It probably does not need one. I have two receivers that have 5.1 inputs (the .1 is the subwoofer) with jst normal 5 speaker output... none for the subwoofer. That is because the speakers these days almost always have built in crossovers to split the freqs up and send the right freq @ power to the right speaker.
Just buy some speakers and don't worry about it. Look for warranty. Radio Shaft used to have 5 year warranteed speakers -- extremely good for the speaker market. I like bose and I hear infinity is another reasonble priced but well designed brand.