Question about Jenn-Air 35 in. JEC9536ADS Electric Cooktop

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Fixing Jenn-Air Custom Control

Hi Todd,

Would you please give me the step by step instruction on how to replace the custom control?

Thank you

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Sure, I meant to get a copy of the schematic last night so that I could send it to you with the changes. I'll get it tonight and send it to you along with the info I have now. The only thing that will be different is that you won't have independent controls of the dual element burner. For me that was fine cause my wife and I never use just the smaller burner but rather always both. The part #1009577 from repair is an infinite switch which is already being used in the cook top for the largest burner or if not (cause I actually didn't look) for sure it is used in the JEC9536, just the wider model. This part is rated from 8.9 - 11.0 amps or 2,640 watts, when you hook the two burners together I believe it adds up to 3,000 watts so the infinite switch (the biggest I could locate) is slightly under sized. However, I felt most things especially electrical, are over engineered for safety any ways. When you remove the circuit board you will have to drill out the two slots where the two mounting screws will secure the new switch, or you can do what I did and stick a screw driver in the slots and stretch them slightly (very easy to do). You'll need to find two screws that fit the new switch for mounting ( not too long, if your not sure take one off one of the other infinite switches and match it up). I'll have to get back with you on the wiring, it is rather simple though, most of the connections are the same as the other infinite switches. The part number 2FBT6 is just a snap action thermal switch that will replace the thermal sensor that went to the circuit board to light up the hot surface indicator. I tried to use the existing sensor but the hot surface indicator lamp stays lit, so I figured that the sensor was probably a 0-10volt or 4-20mAmp switch that the circuit board monitored and turned on the hot surface indicator accordingly. That is a simple hook up also, however, I have not installed that yet cause I did not find out about the thermal sensor not working for the hot surface indicator until after I put in the infinite switch. Tonight I will install it and let you know what wires go where along with a marked up schematic, maybe even photos if you would like.

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

  • todd in nove Sep 12, 2008

    Last night I installed the snap switch, however, it was the wrong one it opened on temp rise instead of close on rise so my hot surface indicator is on when cold and off when hot. The correct part number is 2E246 from I could not find a probe style switch so I removed the probe sensor and mounted the snap switch over the opening of where the probe was to allow hot air to activate it.

    It's not exactly what I wanted and the hot indicator lamp has a delay to come on and off however it serves the purpose of letting you know that the burner is still hot. You'll notice I bent the mounting flange on the snap switch, both ears straight out and one ear hooked back. The hook goes between the glass and the metal where the burner mounts, yes you need to remove the burner.

    The other ear I screwed to the burner. There is not much room so I
    marked and pre-drilled in the corner using care not to run into the
    element on the inside of the burner.

    I have modified the schematic showing my connections:

    I have put the part number over the guts of the switch because I did not want to confuse anyone. When you are looking at the switch installed the above diagram is how the wires will be connected, very similar to the other switches already in the stove.

    The yellow and tan wires I joined at the switch by cutting off one of the spade connectors, stripping the wire and soldering it to the top of the other spade connector.
    I also cut the probe wire connector off and soldered one end to the top of the spade connector attached L! (black). I stripped the other probe wire(also black) and the red wire coming off the hot surface indicator lamp and soldered them together then I wrapped them with some fiberglass tape (white cloth) that I removed from else where on the stove.
    Note: Unless you have heat resistant wire and tape you need to recycle the wire and tape within the stove. Standard wire and tape could melt and or catch fire.
    After that I cut off the probe trying to leave the wires as long as possible. I crimped on good fitting spade connectors, (female, uninsulated), then connected them to the snap switch.

    That should be it.

    Note: Make sure to reconnect the cooling fan and once you have the stove back together on the bench, remove the fan cover and check that no wires are blocking the fan blades. (I have made both of these mistakes once.)

    It seems like a lot of work but it really is not and it is rather easy.


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Hi Todd-
I used your solution and it works great. I did need to use a normally "open snap" action switch to get the hot indicator lamp to turn on and off correctly. I used Grainger's 2E248 switch, which closes at 140F and opens at 120F. This was a pretty simple and effective solution.

Posted on Apr 12, 2010

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Hello Todd in nove,
I would like to thank you very much for this post and the time you
took to put it together. I just made the mods to my cooktop as
directed and it works perfectley !!!!!!! I recommend this repair.
now it's the hotest burner on the cooktop. $34. total cost v.
$188. and no more electronic parts in cooktop.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

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On my JEC9536ADS the front right know has been bent too far sideways when the cooktop was being cleaned and now it is loose and feels broken. I guess this is the one that controls the infinite burner. Do you think just the knob is broken or is it the whole switch that has to be replaced?

Posted on Aug 14, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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