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Re: Cordless phone, no power
Are you saying its taking a long time for the sound to come out of the speakers?? or that theres no sound at all?? If its taking a long time check the resistance of each speaker to see that a componet in the crossover or the speaker didnt short.If you take all the speakers and if theres supost to be a relay for protection and you hear it click then the amp is good or has an out put stage problem like bad poutput devices or blown driver transistors. Need alittle more info if you could Thanks.
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your best bet is to buy a amp wiring kit it will work out alot cheaper you need phono leads they plug into back of stereo and the other ends into the amp, a remote pickup lead(blue wire)from the blue wire on stereo to remote connection on amp.plus if you need to wire your amp up theres cables to sort that as well hope this helps
Have you tried changing the connector leads? They can become faulty. Powered Subwoofers generally work off one connector from the amp. The Sub is a mono amp basaically. So all it needs is the main imput and an earth. One possibilty is that you have the wrong jack plug. Say a stereo instead of a mono, or the wrong size one!
Here's how it goes:
grey=right front pos.
grey/black=right front neg.
white=left front pos.
white/black=left front neg.
violet=right rear pos.
violet/black=right rear neg.
green=left rear pos.
green/black=left rear neg.
red=12 volt switched power source
yellow=12 volt constant power source (direct to battery)
orange/white=illumination (switched source,not to head light switch)
blue/white=amp turn on lead (to remote turn on lead of amp)
blue=auto antenna (switched power source)
brown=phone mute lead (to cell phone mute lead)
RCA connector leads:
red=right rear/right rear subwoofer
white=left rear/left rear subwoofer
(connect to external amp)
red=right aux input
white=left aux input
(connect to external unit)
red=right dual zone output
white=left dual zone output
(connect to wireless head phones)
That should be all there is. on the yellow that goes direct to the battery you need to use an inline fuse holder with 30 amp fuse.
I think you will find that the fault is either a dry joint somewhere (have you moved it recently?) OR more likely a transistor. It might be caused by one getting very hot! Thus shutting down and coming back on when cool.
The best way to track this troublemaker down is to spary each transistor (in the left channel only don't bother with the other or Power section) with Servisol Freezer spray. Wait for the thing to play up then spray -one at a time- if it pops on you have got the bugger! To make certain apply a soldering to it and it should act up again. Spray again to confirm.
IS THERE AN AMP? ARE YOU SURE YOU HAVE DECK/ AMP HOOKED UP TO A CONSTANT "KEY ON" POWER SOURCE? I WOULD GET A TEST LIGHT(REAL CHEAP AT WALMART, OR AUTOPARTS STORES) AND SEE IF MAIN WIRE IS NOT A TIMED KEY ON CIRCUT.... ALSO IF AMP IS BEING USED MAKE SURE ITS HOOKED TO REMOTE ON WIRE(USUALLY BLUE WIRE) AND NOT POWER ANTENNA LEAD OR SOME OTHER TEMP/TIMED POWER LEAD. GOOD LUCK
OK, this is pretty easy to do. First connect your leads from the component outputs(i.e., tape, cd, phono, etc) to the recievers corresponding input for the device. Then connect the recievers outputs to your equalizer, if it is a seperate eq. Then the outputs of that to your amplifier, then your speakers to that. Be sure all of your wires are connected with the proper polarity. These instructions may be a little different for your exact setup but basically follow the same order minus any device you dont have.
Amps now have protection circuits on them now to protect them from blowing the electronics. Speakers dont usualy have any protection and can blow quite easy. Usualy when they blow they short out or short to ground and then the amp overheats and kicks off. What you can do is un hook both speakers and turn the power on if it stays on then plug each speaker back in one at a time. If it shuts off again without the speakers then it has to be somthing internal already damaged.
Bass and volume are the #2 killers of systems. If when its up loud and the woofer speaker is moving in and out pretty far its on the edge of blowing.