I had rushing water through pipes from my burnham steam boiler. A plumber advised me that my programmed water feeder malfunctioned and needs to be replaced. He thought it unusual that the water was rushing rather than a stoppage by the water feeder. the boier was installed in 2002.
I was looking for other opinions on the matter.
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These sure were not out for long. The bright red button is a pressure release valve which could be faulty
hence allowing water to bypass out of the system and not having hot water. Try strapping a bag around
the pipe that goes outside and see if it fills with water. To top up
your system look on the pipes just below the boiler. There should be a
cold filling loop or a connection for one. If not get one from a plumber and ask them how to fill system up, its straight
forward enough and your problem should be fixed with this info
That is the burner primary control, it is controlled by a thermostat somewhere else, could be on the boiler or water heater it will be sensing water temp, and have a probe sensing the water. It may need to be turned back up in the winter, if its heating the house as well.
As I understand your question, you have a boiler with a 'summer/winter' hookup for domestic hot water.
Your boiler should run all the time, i.e. not be shut off by you. Your boiler provides hot water for baseboard heat in your home ... possibly through several 'zones' each controlled by an individual thermostat and circulator. Yours may be a steam system. If this is the case, you have radiators not radiant baseboard heaters and no circulators.
Your summer/winter hookup provides a constant supply of domestic hot water. It does this by taking cold water from your water main and passing it through a copper coil which sits inside your boiler and then to your hot water main in your home. Since the coil sits in the hot water at the top of the boiler, it is constantly being heated. This coil may be in a deteriorated condition in your case or it may be too small for your needs.
Several years ago, I did a small upgrade to my mid 1950's era American Standard boiler. The summer winter hookup in my case was mounted on a 4 inch cast iron boiler plug. The coil was 12 feet long (folded up to a package about 1 foot long). I was very afraid when the plumber came in with what amounted to a 10 foot long pipe wrench. My fear was I would have a pile of broken cast iron at the end of the day. All is well that ends well. He got the old one out and replaced it with a coil that consisted of 20 feet of copper tubing 3/4 inch in size (the folded tubing was about 20 inches long and fit nicely into the boiler). We now have all the hot water a household consisting of one guy and three gals would need in all but the extremest of times..
I think you r answer is here ... replace your summer/winter coil with a new, bigger coil.
Something else I did. My kitchen is 60 feet (pipe wise) from the boiler. It takes a long time to get hot water there. I put in a small electric hot water heater just under the kitchen. I put a timer on it so it runs for a couple hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon. The hot water line from the boiler serves as the cold water input to the heater. I now enjoy the convenience of quick hot water in the kitchen with the relatively low cost of oil heated water from the boiler as a relatively small cost of electricity.
My winter settings are 160 - 200 and my summer settings are 120 - 150 which seems adequate for our needs.
Thanks for your question at FixYa.com. I hope I have been of assistance to you today.
Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. If the valve is built up with calcium and other water sediments it may seem like the valve is open with very minimal water flowing through the valve Have them replace the vvalve.
1. You need to fill the entire system with water before you fire it,
boiler AND radiators... Then, you would normally vent as much of the
trapped air in the system as you could... It's not like you are only
going to fill just the boiler and then pump that water through the
There is a temp setting on the boiler, but I don't think that's a
solution. Remember that the water in the system is going to begin
circulating as soon as you start the boiler. So, it will start
circulating when it's cold, and then gradually warm up.
Your problem is not the sudden rush of hot water, it's going to be
filling the system in the first place, and getting the boiler started
before the system freezes up ...
I don't really have any suggestions for you though, other than perhaps
renting one of those construction heaters ... and bring the building
temp up a bit. But there's certain dangers associated with them too...
Carbon Monoxide for one, fire is another (if used improperly).
Just thought of something: Fill the system with glycol based
anti-freeze solution that's designed for heating systems. That oughta
I'm guessing there's not a functioning water heater either at this
point, is there ? If there was, you could possibly rig something up to
fill the system with lukewarm water, and fire it before it freezes up.
2. You don't have a lot of choice. You have to fill the system, fire the boiler & wait.
It is going to take a long time to get the system up to temperature.
Instant circulation is a double edged sword. The upside is you get a
little bit of heat into the water & have it moving making freezing
less likely. The downside is, it's hard on the boiler with that much
cold water coming back you are likely to have condensation.
I'm sorry to hear! On mine, another model of Burnham , there's a grey box (approx 4" high by 5" wide) on the front of
the boiler. This cover slides off and the control settings are underneath. My manual says low limit must be 20 degrees below high limit else they will lock out each other. I find this to be the case when a maintenance man's "tuned" the settings. My manual also says to set the differential knob to 25 degrees. There are some manuals on the burnham.com site along with their phone number.
This could be as a result of air in the radiator, most radiators have an air expulsion screw at the top of the radiator one one side. You need to undo this screw and release the air until some water appears then close the screw and turn on the heating to test. NB Do not attempt this with the heating on. Also you may need a special type of key to open the screw these are available from diy stores or plumbers merchants.