Completely dead, have power to the outlet, is there an internal fuse I need to check

Ken,
Usually there is an internal fuse and that is probably your problem. You will need to take off the outside cover of your microwave and then look where the power cord goes into the back of the unit. Look for the black wire coming out of the power cord and follow it. It should take you to the fuse. Hope this helps!

(would really like more info- digital number dead as well?)

(assuming completely dead) Could be a couple of things:
- blown fuses (inside, relatively easy to replace, std size avail at Raioshack) <-- most likely
- cut/loose power cord connection inside.
- (unlikely but worse case scenario) Door was closed crooked- one tong hit one door switch before the other- causing a short circuit internally that "self destructs" the microwave to prevent it ever operating with an open (or even crookedly ajar) door, irradiating any users. Typically it just blows the fuses, but if fuses blow immediately upon replacing and turning power on, then possibly one of the switches fused or melted internally, and needs to be replaced.

If it is completely dead, check the main fuse, which is likely a AGC ceramic type. If dead, you can buy from Electronix: http://www.electronix.com/ and click microwave in the left column. Good luck with it.

I would say the lamp popped and took the fuse, so you will need to replace the lamp also.

Dead appliance, power on wall outlet.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARRAMOUNT!

Attempt this only if you are competent.

If your appliance has absolutely no functions at all, remove it from the mains supply, remove the case and see where the mains lead goes in to the appliance and follow the cable until you find the main fuse.
ONLY USE THE SAME TYPE AND RATING OF FUSE TO REPLACE IT.
The usual cause of this fuse failure is the door switches are contaminated or sticking. Check the door switches before putting power back on to the appliance.
Hope this helps.

It sounds like an internal fuse has blown. Unplug unit and carefully open the top cover to provide access to the A.C. power cord entry point. Hopefully the fuse is located in that area and is the older style 1/2" long glass or ceramic body with metal endcap on each end. ONLY REPLACE WITH A FUSE THAT HAS IDENTICAL ELECTRICAL RATINGS! After replacing the fuse and top cover reconnect the unit to the A.C. outlet and check to see if it is still dead. Still dead = repair shop time.

NOTE: Use a "fused" A.C. outlet strip (usually 6 outlets with circuit breaker) for your "after fuse replaced" testing. This gives you additional protection against accidentally tripping a breaker in your homes electrical panel.

check power between power cord connection and inernal fuse,start at cord connection and work way to fuse conn.eliminating possibe problem area

Bill,
I have the same unit. It just happened to me. DId you find a resolution?
I was using it on the oven mode and it just stopped working. It's completely dead.
Thanks
Bob

Does the digital display light up at all? Is it completely dead? Are you sure it has power? Have you tried another outlet? If the outlet is good and the unit is completely dead, the internal fuse may have blown. You can try to take the cover off (with the unit unplugged) and look for a blown fuse. Try replacing the fuse with an EXACT fuse of the same rating. Try plugging the unit back in again and see if the unit comes back on. If not, you may have a power supply issue or defective Magnetron.

Please let me know what you find and we'll go from there.

Good Luck,
- Jim

I woulds first suspect a blown internal fuse or a thermal cutout on the magnetron in your case, but a microwave can be dead for many reasons.

If it goes dead for just a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the thermostat to open. When it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power on again.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or fuse holder.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

Please write back with more details if you need further help.

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