Upon inspection of the mentioned areas I discovered a burned spot on the board at IC9A1 near a 2 watt 2.7 ohm resistor R508 and QA543 which all have overheated solder connections. IC9A1 and QA543 both have bad connections to the PCB cicuitry. There appears to be another resistor mounted too close to the fuse in that area and looks to have touched the fuse terminal. There is a carbon deposit on the lead, such as an arc. Your input has been very helpful in narrowing down the search and I thouht you might like the findings. One note: I could not locate R510. The circuit may have been modified slightly
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Not uncommon in a mits and more likely due to some caps that have exceeded their ESR. That still doesn't make this unit unrepairable, mits were built to last. Find a good reliable shop and take it in... You can use the NESDA web site to locate one unless you have that worked out.
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When you remove the rear cover you will see the large green board on the left side. Note the two large aluminum heatsinks with the fins? The 2 Convergence Ics STK392-120 are attached to that heat sink the 12 6.8 ohm resistors are at board location 3149-3160 they are all the 6.8 ohm 1watt metal film resistor located near the Heat sink which has the two ICs.
Let us use a bit of logic to resolve this... I have an Axiom but it would be a lot of screws to take out to get to the part... so let us think about this. The resistor value starts with a "1" and we know it is 5% tolerance (gold). we know the resistor burnt up with likely 5 volts on it... Value could be 1000 ohms, however the voltages present (12 volts max) would NOT have burned up a resistor of 1000 ohms. The USB area is mostly 5 volts and across 100 ohms is only a quarter watt... not enough to really burn up a resistor... First thing is to MEASURE that the resistor s open... in spite of being burned, it MAY still be OK... these resistors now usually either open or remain close to their value. The resistor ALSO may be a fusible resistor intended to act as a fuse... Is the resistor open or not? is it near a resistance with a "1" as the first digit? If it is not open I suspect it is not all of the problem. In that case, look for a burned circuit trace on the board. If it is open, then MEASURE the voltage across the resistor with the power applied. If you find 5 volts, then it MIGHT be a 10 ohm used to limit the USB current to 500ma. Get back to me with your findings... I have unraveled many of these things...
You have several bad grounds on the convergence board. Boy! I mean several and to numerous to mention. If you know which is the convergence board, pull this out of the TV. This will be difficult and requires your best patience. The convergence IC is located on a large heat sink. The IC will be an STK 393-110. Start by re soldering the pins on this IC. Check all resistors that are 3.9 ohms at 2 watts for values with a DMM. I do not believe these will be need replacing, check to be sure any way. You may have to re solder these as well. You will note you will need to re solder the jumper jacks (these connect to boards on either side of the one you are working on. Locations of these jumper jacks are PM, VU, and PF. Now if you can, inspect the rest of the board, and look very close for solder breaks on diodes, transistors, capacitors, resistors and transformers. You must really look close to find these. Don't expect to do this in one day. Spend about thirty minutes a day for week, for inspection and corrections. Thanks for (yawning!) asking me and show all hands of support! G'dnite.
You have a convergence problem. You must replace the convergence ICs. These are located in the power board (this has the Flyback transformer). It has been sometime since I have repaired one of these. The convergence ICs are of the STK-392-110. You must replace these. These ICs are located on two large heat sinks. You will need lots of patience to remove the board. Then you will need lots of patience to remove these convergence ICs. Inspect the board close for burned resistors near the ICs. (these are under 10 ohms at 2 watts). Check these with an ohm meter and replace as necessary. The best information for a first timer who really wants to repair this TV, see the website, www.TVRepairKits.com. This is an excellent source with photos and parts lists to correct your problem. Another note....some of these TVs are made by Samsung.The model number you find on the website may tell you this. So, now you know you will be on your way for repair! Thanks for asking and show all hands of support!
You are experiencing a convergence problem. You have a IC or ICs that are either bad or have been separated from the board. The separation would be the solder around the pins have developed rings around them,thus no ground connection. These Ics are attached to large heat sinks. They would have a number on them such as STK-392-110 or STK-393-110. Check the two fuses as this is an indication of how severe the board damage is. If the fuses on this board are burned, you may have to replace the board altogether. If not read on. Inspect the low ohm 2 watt resistors. (less than 10 ohms) Your best fix, if you feel you can do this, would be to contact the website, www.TvRepairKits.com. Have your model number near by. Other than that you, should seek a TV Tech. Armed with this info, may provide you with a reasonable cost of repairs.
You need an ohm meter. Or take the boards out and inspect them for burn spots or on the bottom of the board look for a white dust area,this is an indicator of something has burned or blown. Also look for bad resistors,capacitors,and fuses.
Hi Thanks for using FixYa. By looking
at the resistors you can see if they are burned
or brown color. Only the resistors with small value blow(getting open)
like 1 ohm 1/4 watt or 1 ohm 1/2 watt or 10 ohm 1/2 , 1/4 watt some times the
bigger one like 100 ohms, the bigger than 100 ohm just changing the value and
make problem. Please do accept the solution
if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance. Thanks Rylee