I received a Diamond Audio board, D5 1200.1 board. It was missing some surface mount transistors, and might be missing some other parts, I am not sure. I have compared pics of my board to other working boards and it looks the same. When the fuses are removed, there is 13.8 volts throughout the board, but when the fuses are reinserted, the voltage drops to 0.55 or so and there is a buzz from the baord. The protect lights do not come on either. I need a good pic of the board, or some help on where to start troubleshooting. Heard of this before???
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Re: Diamond Audio D5 1200.1 wont power up
You have a dead short on the board If your missing parts I myself would not bother to fix but if your up to a callenge contact www.diamondaudio.com they can assist you in getting the parts and diagrams for you
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General •Speaker type car speaker Manufacturer Diamond Audio Technology Inc. Features •Amplification type passive •Driver configuration 2-way •Woofer size (inches) 7" m, 30mm m •Nominal (RMS) output power 200 Watt •Max (RMS) output power 400 Watt •Response bandwidth 35 - 30000 Hz •Input impedance 4 Ohm •Sensitivity 92 dB •Connectivity wired Compatibility ' Accessories •Included accessories mounting hardware Cutout & Mounting Dimensions •Diameter 6.3 in •Depth 2.7 in General •Manufacturer Diamond Audio Technology Inc. Thiss should help you out.
If you have no audio on either the AV inputs or off-air TV channels, then it is probably in the audio output stage - the audio IC and all components in that part of the board - including surface-mounted ones - as well as dry joints/broken tracks etc. could be a possible cause. It is probably a leaky surface-mounted capacitor, transistor or diode which is preventing the audio from being produced.
This could be an expensive workshop repair, considering the cost of these parts, and the fact that SMD (surface-mount devices) are extremely tiny and difficult to replace, being soldered and glued to the PCB. This type of repair should be undertaken by a workshop - find one who give you a free quote on the likely repair cost, then you can make a decision afterwards on that basis - whether to go any further with it or not.
It is likely one of the amps have blown as well as the power supply. The pwoer supply wipes out about $30 of components when it goes. If the fuse had been replaced after initial failure this results in more damage. For the power supply, typically the two IGBT's are wiped out and the four transistors driving them as well as the regulator chip and one or more of the gate speedup diodes which are surface mounted. Sometimes the surge limit resistors which are ceramic pacakged are blown. The hardest part is removing the heatsinks with the IGBT's on them. You DO need a desoldering station to work on this.
Usually you will find damage to the rearmost amp in the amplifier module. An arc beween layers of the multilayer circuit board causes inital failure. Three MOSFET transistors are blown and a Zener plus the board is charred and this cancer has to be ground away and re-insulated and circuit traces replaced by jumpers. Sometime the .03 ohm metering resistor on the bottom is fried... when that happens, two small surface mounted transistors are blown as well. All in all $50 of components are damaged typically.
I find many links when I Google "solar 2175 welder parts", but don't know about NEW boards. You could get guaranteed repair of this 510-045-000 for about 84 dollars and 23 cents total. Otherwise (reading aloud & use all lower case) Cee q Jay Jay u Nine Dash 838 At sbcglobal.net will get you details. Replace the off-board transistor cabled to the 3-pin connector (regardless of whether it is an MJ900 or MJ11015) at the same time with a new one in the repair kit. That's because a bad or missing off-board transistor can easily smoke a good board, specifically the surface-mount chip 723-type regulator on the solder side of the board.
I have a PMP5000 that I had to resurect. I had to trace out the power supply to repair it.
I can give you hint: First, a small supply runs directely from the line and generates some of the small voltages. While this starts, the main power caps are charged through limiting resistors. The main switcher is brought online and if the power amps acheive balance, then a relay connects the speakers and shorts the limiting resistors.
This is what is in the 5000 and I suspect the 3000 is similar.
In my 5000, there was arcing at one side of the power amps. The board was burned and three power fets fried. Cancer of burned board had to be carved out and traces replaced by hardwiring.
In addition, the limiting resistors were blown open, both main switching transistors were blown and 4 small driver transistors (surface mounted) and several diodes AND a switching regulator chip (surface mounted).all fried/
Hint: When restarting the unit, put a 150 watt light in series with one of side of the power input to limit the current in case you did not get all the dead bodies out.
This is a class "D" amp which drives PCM waves into a filter which is then the audio output. It is much more efficient thaan a linear amp.
Between the ground and the "PRD" pin of the CPU, there are three diodes: D503, D504 and D505. The first two seem to be useful to protect the CPU itself against any over-current. In case of short circuit or similar, these 2 diodes can easily blow out, and force to "0" the pin 139 voltage of the CPU ("PRD" pin, dedicated to detect any abnormal DC voltage from output transistors) This is the reason why the protection circuit shuts-off the unit, even if the faulty power transistors have been replaced
Diodes are normal surface-mounted 1SS355: I've replaced them with two 1N4146, and everything works perfectly now. Diodes are located in the "Function" board, at the left side of the unit: they are easily accessible
I've realized that the problems seems to be extremely common for this model, so I hope that this hint will be useful in several cases
If you have burnt the transistors that are located on the circuit board, then you wont be able to repair it I dont think because in the circuit board there are probibly mulitple layers of electrical wires the are extremely small and fine that would make it impossible to connect the transistor to the right layer. Try contacting the manufacturer though