I replaced the heat selector switch (Fuff-No Heat,Delicate,Regular) Yesterday and now I have the same problem with the gas going on and heating and then it shuts off and the ignitor keeps coming on and there is no gas. How do I check the Solinoids for the gas valve?
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Motor runs, but main burner will not ignite
1.heat switch set wrong---correct switch setting
2.defective timer or timer circuit---check timer wiring--replace timer motor or switch as needed
3.defective centrifugal switch in motor---clean switch or replace as needed
4.gas supply valve closed----open gas valve
5.inoperative solenoid coil---test coil for open circuit & the voltage to it
Pilot burner goes out
1.insufficient gas supply---- low gas pressure or clogged pilot filter or partially closed gas valve
2.carbon deposit on thermocouple tube---clean tube & check pilot burner for proper combustion
3.improperly adjusted pilot flame--adjust pilot flame until faint yellow tip begins to appear
4.faulty ignition or reset valve or thermocouple---replace
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly.
if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.
check out this electric no heat tip...
Hello- Have him come back out (AT NO CHARGE) and check the gas valve coils these are probably not opening the valve, thus letting the gas out. It is a common issue and sometimes we, the Techs, need to sit there and watch the ignitor light the gas for a whole cycle. Often it will heat for 30 minutes and then the coils will stop opening the valve when told to by the timer. It is possible that there is a thermostat issue but less likely. Hope this helps, best regards.
1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is
probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas
valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or
three) if found defective.
Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not
letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.
2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer
overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or
stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the
dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a
meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not
broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a
hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found
Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended
to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually
white in color).
4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.
It would be unusual but this could be a bad timer in the control panel. The only way to know for sure is to do some electrical testing with a volt/ohm meter and the wiring diagram located within the appliance. If possible use the meter and the wiring diagram to check input/output voltages looking for discrepancies between the diagram and the actual meter readings.
Check your ducts that the heat blows out through. make sure there is no plug up in the dryer or in the ductwork. You may have a problem with the termosensor or the high temp cut out safety switch/sensor. This sensor would be somewhere in the exhaust of the dryer.