Question about Kicker Solo-Baric L7 S15L72 Car Subwoofer
On my 15' L7 someone before me had re-sauddered one of the wires on the back of the sub, and since he did that i think it was shortened and the movment of the subwoofer had pulled out the coiled wire connected to the cone of the sub, i was wondering if i could cut away the protective rubber coating on it to re-saudder it.
I did that on my comp vr and thay still work to this day . if its to short use a piece of wire to make it long enogh
Posted on Sep 14, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Your Kicker L7 Ohms may be too low for the MA Audio Mono block amp. The MA Audio Amp is probably 2 Ohm Stable. The kicker will either be 2 ohm or 4 ohm Dual voice coil. To eliminate the low ohms as a possible threat to causing the map to go into Protect, Wire the kicker Voice Coils in Series. This adds the ohms, so that you either have 4 or 8 ohms.
I am using the following codes to show wiring. VC1+ stands for the Kicker Subs Voice Coil #1 Postive post. AO+ is the MA audio Amp output positive.
AO+ to VC1+
VC1- to VC2+
VC2- to AO-
This shopuld give you 4 or 8 ohm depending on the 15" L7 setup. Crutchfield does not carry the Kicker L7 in 15" They do have the L5 in 15".
If you know how to read a Volt Ohm Meter, set it to OHMs 20 and measure across VC1+ to VC1- and you should see between 1.5 and 5 ohms.. Do the Same with VC2+ to VC2-. you should see the same voltage. Also read from the Voice coil metal housing to VC1+ , VC1-, VC2+, and VC2-. and you should not read any ohmage to the case. The meter should say OL, or -1.
Oct 15, 2007 | Kicker Solo-Baric L7 S15L72 Car Subwoofer
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