Question about Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3t Front Load Washer

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Bearing Follow Up

Agreed. the bearings sit in a cast housing...Inner and outer.....I haven't removed them from the housing as they claim you can only replace the entire rear tub assembly, which I will do as they are to send it under a warranty provision. My uncertainty lies around whether or not I will have fixed anything as there are literally no signs of wear either to the cast housing or the bearings.

Thanks for the input.
DOK

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  • Master
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It does seem a bit odd that vibration and out of balance are ascribed to bearings. normally when bearings go, the symptom is just noisy bearings.
vibration can be from several sources
if the spin cycle does not ramp up to speed ie does not work up to spin speed but goes straight into spin, then there will be vibration
if shock absorbers are worn, there will be vibration.
if the washer is not solid onto the floor there will be vibration.
if the floor is a suspended floor, there can be quite severe vibration. some modern floors (in the UK at any rate) are made from a form of chipboard called weyrock. with joist spacing greater than in the past and with weyrock as the floor cladding, quite severe vibration can result

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

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CLUNKING NOISE AS DRUM GOES ROUND


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Aug 23, 2011 | Hotpoint Washing Machines

1 Answer

Washing machine is banging when washing....sounds like the bearings,can i fix it?


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. If problem you describe is the main bearing on the drum being worn out, (allowing the inner drum to "flop about").

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Aug 03, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

The tub is loose


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Jul 29, 2011 | Frigidaire GLTF1240A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My machine seems to be creating "plucks" on garments. I've run my hand around the drum for any "spikes". Any idea why this is happening please?


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is quite possibly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about", when this happend, garments can get trapped between the inner and outer drums, causing pulls in the material and stain marks as the material is rubbed hard against the rubber gasket.


To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about ?£20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.


Jul 28, 2011 | De Dietrich LZ9619 Front Load Washer /...

1 Answer

My duet whirpool washe makes loud noise when washing i checked the inner drum and it seams to be out of balance


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Jul 22, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Drum floppingfrankhenderson90@gmail.com


I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. Taking the two words you have given as a problem statement, the problem is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.


If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:


A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)


You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.


The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.


A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.


This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about ?£20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Jul 07, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

How to change the rear bearings in my 1997 grand cherokee limited


YOU HAVE TO SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE MAKE SURE ITS ON A SOLID LEVEL GROUND.THEN YOU REMOVE THE WHEELS THE BRAKE DRUM OR DISC.THEN YOU REMOVE THE NUTS THAT ATTACH THE OUTER SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE BACKING PLATETO THE AXLE SHAFT TUBE.DISCARD THE NUTS.REMOVE AXLE SHAFT FROM HOUSING.WITH AN AXLE PULLER ATTACHED TO A SLIDE HAMMER.DISCARD INNER AXLE SEALPOSITION THE AXLE SHAFT IN A VISE.REMOVE THE RETAINING RING BY DRILLING A 1/4 HOLE ABOUT 3/4 OF THE WAY THROUGH THE RING. THEN USING A COLD CHISEL OVER THE HOLE.SPLIT THE RING.REMOVE THE BEARING WITH A ARBOR PRESS DISCARD THE SEAL AND REMOVE THE RETAINER PLATE.TO INSTALL - CLEAN THEN APPLY A THIN COATING OF WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE BEARING AND SEAL CONTACT SURFACES APPLY WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT TO THE LIPS OF THE REPLACEMENT INNER AND OUTER SEALS.INSTALL THE INNER SEAL WITH THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACING INWARD ENSURE IT IS COMPLETELY SEATED.INSTALL THE RETAINER PLATE AND THE OUTER SEAL ON THE SHAFT.ENSURE THE OPEN END OF THE SEAL FACES TOWARD THE AXLE SHAFT BEARING.PACK THE REPLACEMENT BEARING WITH WHEEL BEARING LUBRICANT AND POSITION ON THE AXLE SHAFT PRESS INTO PLACE.PRESS A REPLACEMENT BEARING RETAINER ON THE AXLE SHAFT AGAINST THE BEARING.INSTALL THE AXLE INTO THE AXLE TUBE.POSITION AND ALIGN THE SEAL RETAINER AND BRAKE SUPPORT PLATE AND INSTALL REPLACEMENT ATTACHING NUTS.TIGHTEN NUTS TO 32 FT LBS.INSTALL BRAKE ASSEMBLY WHEELS LOWER VECHICLE. YOU SAID REAR BEARINGS IF THIS WHAT YOU MEANT.I HOPE THIS CAN HELP.

Apr 12, 2010 | 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

I need to replace the bearings on lg wm2277


The metal covering piece is probably the outer seal for the front bearing--you remove both by driving the bearing out with a long metal rod (or a long punch) that reaches all the way through from the back (you have removed the inner drum and end shaft first). Tap fairly gently on the rod with a hammer and move the bearing end to another location after a few taps. The seal should pop out first, with the bearing next. Once out, look for a number on the bearing edge--it should match the replacement. Inspect the surface where the seal mates with the shaft--it should be pit and wear free. If it is not, a local machine shop should be able to repair that surface (and cheaper than a new inner drum assembly). It is essential that this surface be perfect as it keeps water out of the bearing behind it. The seal can be reused if it still fits fairly tightly on the shaft and that it was not damaged during the removal process. Check with a local bearing supply house to get a replacement bearing. The new bearing will have been greased at the factory, but you need to grease the shaft and inner seal lip with waterproof grease before installing the seal. Don't strike the inner part of the new bearing, only along the outer edge when tapping it back into the housing. Same with the seal. The far end bearing will likely be good and not need to be replaced--slowly turn the inside part and feel for any roughness which would indicate the need for replacement. If so, it gets tapped out from the front side in a similar manner as the front removal. Good luck!!

Dec 05, 2009 | LG WM-2277HW Front Load Washer

1 Answer

How do i replace front wheel bearings on a 1991 subaru lyale 4wd wagon ?


  1. Remove the steering knuckle assembly from the vehicle, and secure in a soft-jawed vise.
  2. Drive out the hub from the steering knuckle. If the inner bearing race remains in the hub, press it out.

    NOTE Be careful not to scratch the polished area of the hub.

  3. Remove the rotor shield.
  4. Remove the inner and outer seals.
  5. Remove the snapring from the steering knuckle.
  6. Press the inner bearing race to remove the outer bearing.
  7. If equipped with ABS, remove the tone ring.
  8. Press the wheel lugs from the hub.

    NOTE To prevent deforming the hub, do not hammer the lugs out.

To install:
  1. Press new wheel lugs into the hub.
  2. If equipped, clean all foreign material from the hub and tone ring. Install the tone ring.
  3. Clean the inside of the steering knuckle.
  4. Remove the plastic lock from the inner race and press a new, greased bearing into the hub by pressing the outer race.
  5. Install the snapring into its groove.
  6. Press a new outer oil seal until it contacts the bottom of the housing.
  7. Press a new inner oil seal until it contacts the circlip.
  8. Apply grease to the oil seal lips.
  9. Install the rotor shield and tighten the bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 Nm).
  10. Attach the hub to the steering knuckle.
  11. Press a new bearing into the hub by driving the inner race.
  12. Install the steering knuckle.
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Front axle and bearing assembly—Sedan, Coupe, Loyale, XT, Wagon and Brat

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Driving out the inner bearing assembly

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Pressing the bearing in

Oct 19, 2009 | 1991 Subaru Loyale

1 Answer

Need help replacing front hub


Here's the steps....getting some pics for you....hang on a minute or two.

Front Hub Removal & Installation To Remove:
  1. Remove steering knuckle.
  2. Using a suitable slap hammer, remove wheel hub assembly.
  3. Using a suitable bearing press, remove outer bearing, oil seal, outer bearing race and preload spacer.
  4. Remove inner oil seal, inner wheel bearing and inner bearing race.
NOTE: It is not necessary to remove dust cover (back plate).
To Install:
  1. Using a suitable bearing press, install bearing races in steering knuckle.
  2. Pack the bearings and hub area with lithium grease.
  3. Install inner bearing in steering knuckle.
  4. Lubricate lip of NEW inner seal and press seal into knuckle.
  5. Install preload spacer into bore.
  6. Install outer bearing into bore.
  7. Lubricate lip of NEW outer seal and press seal into knuckle.
  8. Using an appropriate tool, support inner wheel bearing and press wheel hub into knuckle with a force of 2500kg.
  9. Install NEW inner seal.
  10. Install knuckle assembly.

May 13, 2009 | 2004 Kia Rio

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