Service Tech evaluated our HE3T vibration and trouble balancing and determined it to be the rear tub bearing. Cost to repair was greater than a new purchase in spite of machine only 6 yrs old. Tub is covered under "Exceptional Part Warranty" and itself would be at no charge. I disassembled and have looked at rear bearings and don't see any significant damage, but am not sure how much play is too much and in what direction the play might be that causes the problem. Realize this is highly technical, but hoping someone out there has the method to verify or if one simply reinstalls a new tub and then tries it to see if it corrects the problem.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
2 possible problems. On the outside of the tub front and on the top back are cement counter weights that are bolted to the tub. If they are coming loose, they would cause the tub to go off balance and wobble. If just the stainless inner tub is the one that wobbles, that suggests a bad rear drum bearing. The counter weight problem easy to fix once you get the top and back off and just need re-tightened. The back drum bearing is something even trained techs want to avoid. It requires removing the complete tub/drum assembly from the washer----then splitting the outer tub in half to replace the inner drum and bearing assembly. Cost for parts will be excessive and not worth the repair.
Bearing Replacement (Part 1 of 3)
This advice is for replacing the rear wash tub shell of most
Kenmore Elite HE model FRONT
LOADERS, along with Whirlpool Duet, and some Frigidaire FRONT
LOADER models.This is a repair that
would be rated as difficult due to the extensive disassembly and
reassembly of components.
The requirement to replace the rear wash tub shell is
usually attributed to the rear tub bearing failure in which the bearings are
molded into the tub and cannot be replaced otherwise.In some situations the replacement of the
inner spinner basket (stainless steel tub) may also be required due to the
corrosion and breakage of the spider arms in the back of the basket that
support the basket.
SYMPTOMS:Washer exhibits excessively loud “rumbling” type noise during the spin
cycle, excessively vibrates, or won’t spin at all.
DETERMINING IF THE BEARING AND SPIN BASKET ARE BAD:
With the washer door open, place your hand inside the basket and push straight
up.If there is excessive play in the
tub (wobbles up and down) the bearing is probably bad.If the spinner basket scrapes against the
outer tub shell when you give it a spin, you will have to replace the inner
spin basket as well. Unfortunately, you cannot see the condition of spinner
basket supports until it is removed from the outer tub shells.In some cases, a brownish colored stain
my show up on clothing as the bearing seal has been breached and leaks into the
Before starting this repair, make sure you read through all
instructions thoroughly and place the washer is in an area that gives you
plenty of space to work.
It would cost about $500 to $700 to replace the bearing. It is a big job because the drum has to be replaced because the bearing may have damaged the drum shaft so it's recommended to replace the drum assembly along with the bearing assembly. If you decide to do it yourself, you will need:
The rear tub assembly which includes the bearings
The tub seal
The rear half of the outer wash drum (which contains the rear bearing and tub shaft seal) needs to be replaced. On a 1 - 10 scale, this rates a difficulty rating of about an 8. An experienced appliance tech can do it in about 2 hours, and hit you up for about $500. I do not suggest this as a do it yourself repair. Did you know that the new LG machines use a balance ring to make them much smoother running? (Hint: It may be wiser to replace the machine.)
Either bad motor, motor bearing, tub bearing or idler pulley (also broken motor mount). Unplug unit. Spin tub by hand. Try and feel if spins freely. If direct drive unit (no belts). Most likely tub bearing or motor. Remove rear panel. Inspect for damage (broken mounting parts). Turn tub by hand. Look for malfunction.
If it's the shocks it would be walking around and bouncing. Probably the rear tub bearing is bad. If you can reach in and push up on the metal basket and feel play in it, this is the problem. This requires replacing the rear half of the tub and sometimes the basket. It's a pain even with 2 people.
The problem you are having can be caused by one of 3 things. The pulley on the back of the tub can be slipping in the hole that it fits into. The main tub bearing that the tub rides inside of is defective, or the tub support on the main spin basket is broken.
Reach inside of the washer and give it a turn. If the basked seems to fall when it turns one of these 3 items is the problem.
There is a rear bearing that you can change and you can also change the rear pulley. These two are the only 2 that you would consider repairing. The inner rear bearing or the main tub support are not cost effective to repair.
Unplug the washer, then take the back off and you will see the pulley with the belt going around it. make sure it is stable. You can remove it by taking off the large nut that is holding it in place. Then the pulley will pull off. Behind it you will see the rear bearing. On some models this bearing is not replaceable from the rear. Check to see if it is possibly damaged. If the bearing looks good, you will probably need the main tub. I do not recommend repairing if it needs the tub. The job would cost in the $600.00 price range. Good luck and send me more information if you have it. Thanks for requesting me.
The rear bearing is part of the back half of the outer tub. In some cases the basket will need replaced also if the shaft is scored. This is a big job. In most cases whirlpool will warranty the parts for 10 years but not the labor. Will need to check in your owners manual. Hope this helps
If the rear bearing is bad it will require the replacement of the entire rear tub shell. This is because the bearing is molded into the plastic and cannot be replaced separately (I know, its a stupid design). Sometimes additional damage can occur and the inner spin basket and front shell may also need replaced. In addition, what may seem like a bad rear bearing, might be a broken tub support on the spin basket. In a nutshell, you may have to replace both tub shells and spin basket at a minimum. With parts and labor the repairs could cost $600-$800. If you have no extended warranty or service plan coverage, it may not be worth the effort to repair due to the excessive cost. Sorry...I wish I had better news for you. I hopes this provides you with some answers.