Replacing dash panel & when istalling the combination meter there are 4 lugs in wire group to plug into meter. I ahve a small (mals) black plug with 2 wires. One wire white with a gry stripe & periodic gry bands. One blk wire with periodic gry bands. Cannot find a plug in this area or a female wire connection to connect this plug????????????????

well the service manual covers this.
next time take photos as you work.
there are only 4 connections to a starter. some 3
battery not connected first oK<????????
SILHOUETTE ! 3.4L V6?
1: casing grounded to bell. and huge cable to battery neg lug.
2: the huge red + battery Plus cable to solenoid in huge lug
3; the tiny faston plug called the key line(crank)
4: on some starts there is short think jumper from inboard soleniod
out PIN to the starter motor actual.
bottom right I marked NO ! bat neg is engine ground or at starter mounted huge bold.


bosch actual for this car.

a USA car, the last Cherokee sold here , until 2014
that sport?
if yes, the book is free, why not read the free, real factory book,
its and XJ jeep. the book is free, read it,
or post symptoms and ASK HOW TO TEST, a big win, not easter egg hunts.

posted now over 300 times, this free link the real book,
it not a clone or other BS rag. it real.

one more time,

http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service


see that? 96-2001, in one book, by jeep.

IF in EUROPE, its not our Cherokee its our 2002 jeep Liberty
answering for USA spec car. now.
are blinkers bad, or Hazards or both and are fuses good. first.
chapter 8J covers this, topic in the REAL book.

now the wall of text,:::

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
COMBINATION FLASHER
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,
REFER TO GROUP 8M - PASSIVE
RESTRAINT SYSTEMS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY
STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR
INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR
SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS
COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG
DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL
INJURY.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the knee blocker from the instrument
panel. Refer to Knee Blocker in the Removal and
Installation section of Group 8E - Instrument Panel
Systems for the procedures.
(3) Reach through the outboard side of the steering
column opening to access and disengage the combination
flasher wire harness connector retainer from
the instrument panel diagnostics mounting bracket
(Fig. 4).
(4) Pull the combination flasher into the instrument
panel steering column opening far enough to
access the wire harness connector.
(5) Remove the combination flasher from the wire
harness connector.
(6) Remove the combination flasher from under
the instrument panel.
and last the photo fig 4
spoon fed,..


my guess is you are barking up wrong tree.
no?

Check the fuse box, for the one of the main ignition fuse. Usually a 40 - 60 amp breaker

You have two options here.

1. Replace the Combination Switch as your Wiper/Washer, Turn Signal, Emergency Flasher and High/Low Head Lights are all in the same switch.

2. Fix the broken wire inside of the switch.

Here are the steps you need:

1. Tilt the stearing wheel up and remove the lower dash panel. (Three 8mm Hex screws)

2. Remove the steel anti-theft place behind the lower dash panel (Five 5/16 Hex screws)

3. Remove the lower stearing column panel (four phillips screws) There is one on the left, three on the right. You will have to look all the way back on the right rear to get this one as it is slightly hidden behind the dash frame.

4. Lift slightly on the upper stearing column panel and remove the two #10 Torx scress that secure the combination switch and disconnect the electrical plugs.

5. Assemble in reverse.

Now, if your problem is related to the delay circuitry of the Wipers, you can remove the 5 Torx screws in the combination switch which will allow you to seperate the two halves. When you do, there will be on plastic contact slide that will come out of the top and you will have to fish this back in when reassembling but it is quite easy.

There will be a three wire plug that also connects to from the top housing and feeds into your turn signal lever. Slide a small screw driver into the lock mechanism and pull free.

These three wires (Red, Blue and Yellow) are what control your wipers and wiper delay. If one of them is broken, you can resolder to fix the problem.

If the wires are not broken, then you likely will have to buy a switch as you cannot get inside of the sealed handle. However, you can use an ohm meter to test the function of the switch.

Total time to remove and replace the switch is about 30 minutes. To disassemble the switch, replair and reinstall is about 1 hour depending on your abilities.

Instrument Panel and Pad REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. If so equipped, unfasten the inside hood release handle.
3. Remove the steering wheel and the lower steering column cover.
4. Remove the glove box, switch panel and console. Fig. 1: Loosen the retaining nut to unfasten the inside hood release handle
   Fig. 2: If necessary, remove the dash mounted speaker covers to access hidden instrument panel bolts
   Fig. 3: Due to space limitations, some bolts are best removed with an open end or box wrench
   Fig. 4: Other bolts are easily removed with a socket
   
   
5. Remove the meter (gauge) hood, heater control panel mounting screws and separate the heater controls from the instrument panel frame. Remove the combination meter.
6. Remove the air duct(s) and the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Allow the column to lower.
7. Disconnect and label the meter wiring. Unfasten the mounting bolts and remove the crash pad and instrument panel. Fig. 5: Some of the instrument panel attaching bolts are hidden behind removable trim covers or plugs. Carefully pry off the cover . . .
   Fig. 6: . . . then remove the bolts with a socket
   Fig. 7: The glove box must be removed to unfasten some of the instrument panel retaining bolts
   Fig. 8: Other retaining bolts are accessible with the meter hood and combination meter removed
   To install:
   
8. Position and fasten the crash pad and instrument panel, being careful to route the wiring correctly. Attach the meter wiring to its appropriate connections.
9. Raise the steering column to its normal operating position and install the steering shaft mounting bracket bolts. Connect the air ducts.
10. Install the combination meter. Install the heater controls into the instrument panel frame with the mounting screws. Attach the meter hood.
11. Install the console, switch panel and glove box.
12. Install the steering wheel column cover and steering wheel.
13. If applicable, attach the inside hood release handle.
14. Connect the negative battery cable.

I am hoping you have an Owners manual or Fuse Chart. For something like a Digital Dash it is usually grouped with other items. Look at the Fuse Chart and see what else is on the same fuse. Your Radio may be grouped with the Dash, Autolamp timer, to name a few.

You can unplug the other items grouped on the problem fuse. Then when the fuse does not blow, you have found the bad part. Sometimes doorjam contacts short out, but they would be fused as a Dome light.

You can use an Ohmmeter to test the Fuse holder when the Battery is disconnected. The fuse is blowing because something is grounding. When you find the bad wire, the Ohmmeter should show a drop in the meter. Remember to disable anything in the same group used by the fuse. When you do, there should be nothing to ground out and the meter should drop to zero.

I have pulled a Digital dash out of a Mark 7. That was almost a 2 hour job, but there was nothing to test but a simple plug-in.

You'll need a volt tester or a test light. The large wire from the battery should go to the first large lug, the other larger wire goes to the starter goes to the other large lug. There should be one or two smaller wires that fit the large lugs. If there is only one small wire with a large connector it should go on the starter lug. If there are two small wires with large connectors, you'll have to check to see which one powers the car and ingition. Turn the key and have someone watch the dash lights then touch one wire to the wire from the battery, the one that light up the dash lights goes there, the other will most likely go on the other side but not always. There should also be one or two wire with small connectors these are the ignition switch and ignition wires. Once you have the other wires hooked up, have someone try to start the truck the wire that is hot only when they are trying to start the truck goes to the small lug by the battery side of the solenoid, if there is another wire it will go to the other lug.
I know this is a lot. If you need more help respond to this question and I'll be notified by email and I'll try to help you further.

On the right side of your glove box, open the passenger door to access compartment #26 30 amp.

As for the power windows, try this.
1.        Measure voltage at 30 amp circuit breaker #26 at fuse block. Meter should read battery voltage. If not, replace or repair open to 60 amp fuse #13 in Power Distribution Center (PDC) as required.
2.        Turn ignition switch to off and measure resistance from ground lug on left side kick panel to ground. Meter read zero ohms. If not, repair open to ground.
3.        Remove master power window switch on left front door. Measure resistance at black wire (terminal one of green connector). Meter should read zero ohms. If not, repair open to ground.
4.        Turn ignition switch to on and measure voltage at terminal 5 of black connector. Meter should read battery voltage. If not, repair open to circuit breaker #26 in fuse block.
5.        Close master window switch. Measure voltage at terminal 1 of black connector. Meter should read battery voltage. If not, replace switch.
6.        Operate window switch. All windows should operate.


Thanks. you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

i assume that you have a trailer light attachment installed at the rear of the vehicle somewhere around the tow hitch,turn on your head lights,obtain a volt meter and check D.C. voltage on the pigtail,ground the black lead to clean frame metal and check the pins on the plug with the red lead,one of them should be live 12v dc.that will be your trailer running lights,theother will be brake lights,you will have to have someone hold trheir foot on the brake to test it,dont assume the trailer is ok. verify voltage at the connector on the vehicle first,if you have 12 v,there the trailer has the problem,or if it hasnt been used in a long time the connector may need to be cleaned,as far as the fuse goes depending how it was installed,could be several choices,set your meter on continuity and check all fuses,you dont have to phisically remove each one,if you look close there are two small contact points on both sides of the amp rating number,most likely you will have two or three fuse panel locations,primary is under dash drivers side ,secondary panels and relays located in engine compartment under hood on fender walls black plastic box w/cover,,also may be on the sides of the dash board,can only see when the door is open ,or behind the ashtray in the center console,replace any fuses that are blown,be aware of the plug configuration on the car to the trailer,and that the ground wire on the car side of the plug is also the ground lead on the trailer connector, wires may have got mixed up during repair,happens to the best of us once in a while,clean ground connections are very important on trailers,old rusty wires and scerws should be removed wire brushed and reinstalled,or replaced if needed,then sealed with varnaloc,or spray paint,to protect them,hope this helps you.aloha from maui todd0708