Question about Refrigerators
Frdge not cooling,,, freezer is fine,, defrosted for 16 hr,, it started working,, then stopped again after 2-3 hr ie fridge part.
technician saw it, says all parts working ,,
what do i do
chuck it out or spend in reapairs
SOURCE: Fridge is warm, freezer is cold!
The defrost cycle is not happening like it should, that's what causes the block of ice (and poor air flow). If you have all that defrosted look at the defrost bi-metal, it usually is a small round disk with a couple wires coming out of it and it's clipped on the coils. When it's cold enough, it passes electricity to the heat elements, when it gets hot enough it "opens" and kills power to the heat elements. If that is bad (swollen cracked or bloated) and not passing electricity to the elements that's the problem. Another item would be the defrost timer itself, if it doesn't work (no clock motor turning) then it will never go into defrost. And the last and usually least expected failure would be the heat element themselves no working. Good job trouble shooting!
Posted on Jan 14, 2007
This is usually caused by a dirty condenser coil or a stalled condenser fan.
Remove the cover from the rear of the fridge and see if the fan is running. If not, make sure nothing is stuck in the blades keeping it from turning. If it turns freely you probably need a new fan motor but you would need to check the voltage to be sure.
Post back if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 18, 2007
Defrost the unit for two days with the doors open...I know you're going to lose your contents. You may have ice on the coils internally. Next make sure you've cleaned the external coils under the unit. Leaving liquids open inside the unit or setting it colder than required will both cause issues like the ones you've got. Also, be sure all air vents inside the unit are unblocked and the door closes tightly all around.
Posted on Mar 09, 2008
on the back wall inside the freezer unscrew the white panel and then remove the panel behind this . you should now see a tray that runs the width of the freezer with a driphole on the left-hand side which will probably be frozen with ice , chip away whatever is possible and then put boiling water on the driphole and once this is clear you should find the problem sorted , 1 other option is to turn the fridge/freezer off for several days and this will allow the ice build-up to thaw thus resolving the problem
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
LG 620 RW water in fridge below crisper problem.
The issue is most likely a blocked condensate drain line at the back of the freezer. The purpose of the drain line is to take away the water from the end of the defrost cycle.
Task time, approx 2 hours.
Empty out the fridge, let warm up & remove the back panel of the freezer. There is a 3" x 4" snap in door at the upper left corner of the back panel with a round snap in cover. Remove the snap in cover & remove the screw to take out the 3" X 4" panel, gently pull out the back panel from left to right. There is also an elect connector to the fan on the upper right corner, unclip this. The drain is at the back in the centre, it will likley be blocked with 2 or 3" of ice. You can let it melt or sparingly use a hair dryer on it, do not over heat or damage the coil/fin assembly. The fridge will continue to drip water for a day after the drain is cleared if the water has rin inside of it for any period of time.
There is also a fan/control assembly in the refrigerator section held up by 2 screws & snaps. This should be dropped down to ensure there is not ice buildup in the vents to the freezer or water inside it.
Finally, make sure you run warm water down the freezer drain tube to the pan underneath the fridge, this is accessible by taking of the rear compresser cover behine the frigde. Ensure the lower drain line is clear & back on the locater peg.
Of course if you want to do this the easy, & have the time, leave the fridge open, unplugged for 2-3 days & the ice will all melt.
Posted on Jun 19, 2010
Turning the thermostat to a warmer setting should not have caused the machine to quit cooling. Actually, the engineers give you far less leeway than you might think.
The controls are more in a class of fine tuning, otherwise people would be getting themselves into trouble. The manufacturers simply design the warm and cold parameters in a fairly narrow range.
The best setting is normal. When away, the machine will run far less simply because of no door openings. Opening a door lets in large amounts of air every time it's done, which is where your cost to run it exists.
Two things. One, if the temp in the kitchen exceeded 90 degrees for any length of time, you are operating it beyond it's design range, however two, it sounds as if the thermostat hung up, causing your issue. You may want to have it replaced, but it would be useless to call anyone when it's performing normally.
There is no test on thermostats other than by observing their action when the machine is not operating properly.
Posted on Jul 08, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank for your advice. This answers a number of questions. However I don't understand the last sentence. Could you clarify? Thanks again!"
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