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Problem with CTX S762A (Silver) 17" LCD Monitor
The monitor turns off and on repeatedly.
It comes on and shows the picture but then turns off and comes back on and shows the picture and turns off again repeatedly. It seems to keep doing this forever. It is getting power and is connected to the computer or it wouldn't show the picture.
Solutions (36)
Best Solution
I opened up and fixed a monitor just like this. The reason it only stays on for a second is because there are 4 or 5 bad capacitors on the power supply board that have over heated and gone bad due to cheap parts or poor ventilation. All I had to do was replace them and the monitor worked fine after that. Also i resoldered one joint on the bottom. While I dont reccomend the average home user to try this it is an extremely easy fix if you have the right tools.
I am an LCD repairer. The problem is power problem. If you remove the plastics from the back of LCD you will see two waffle boards. One is the power the other is the video. You will need to replaced the power (its yellow)
Oh my goodness! I was ready to chuck my other monitor out because of the on then off after a few seconds (faulty thing) - when I came across one of the posts earlier.
All I had to do was to push the "Auto" button twice and now it's back to normal.
Thanks to the guy who posted the solution. Thought I'd post it again here in case someone else is having the same problem.
Saves me buying another monitor! Whoohoo!
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Thank you, wiseinvest! I found your post, pressed theAltGr button twice on my Acer laptop German keyboard, and the monitor stopped flashing. I am sharing this tip with my family and friends as well!
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I have been working on lcds for about two years now and what I find alots of problems is power supply...caps are often number one problem. I have repaired about 500 lcds with just replacing
caps in power supply....hope this help cyborg
Like many users here, i fix these things too. And while I agree that many screens have faulty boards inside, the highest degree that I find faulty are simply the screen ribbons not seating properly.
Why so many others only replace the complete board, i'm not sure, but that's just me being awkward ;-) I do seem to find the most weird problems around :)
The first thing is - why does AUTO-ADJUST affect a screen ? That's mainly because your PC is sending out a specific signal for screen resolution and frequency. All screens have a maximum resolution & frequency, and if you go past that level the screen switches off (or to standby) to protect itself.
Sometimes a screen will notice a bad setting instantly, and some may take a few seconds before they switch off. That's just normal.
If the AUTO doesn't fix yours, and you don't want to be soldering new components or replacing complete boards, then you can try as I do.....
Take the rear panels off the screen (these can be very weird & complicated, held with screws and/or tape, metal tags, plastic pins etc., and sliding fitiings), and eventually you will reach the actual white plastic panel at the rear of the TFT screen itself.
Usually at the top-centre of the screen (nearly) you will find a flat ribbon cable taped down to the back of the screen. Note that you should only attempt this is (1) you are good at this kind of thing, and (2) you have good dexterity with your hands - cos this isn't as easy as it may sound.....
remove that tape holding the ribbon. Do that very very carefully, the ribbon is fragile, and the connection it goes into is even more so.
The ribbons just pull downwards - keep it flat until its out, and 'never' bend that cable.
(the tape is best removed by keeping it flat/close to the back of the screen, and pulling towards the top of the screen slowely - DONT just pull it away from the screen, it'll damage the parts very easily.
If you have some, spray a bit of SERVICOL electrical cleaner on the ribbon & screen connection, then put the ribbon back in again - this is far more awkward than removing it - do it slow and carefully, never being rough with it, never forcing it to hard. The connection your pushing the ribbon into is very easily broken by pressure, so don't touch it or grip it.
Next put the tape back over the connection & gently rub it flat, I always replace the tape with stronger types of 'duct tape'. That's not essential though, although if the original tape seems not too sticky any longer, you should make the effort to replace it.
Rebuild the parts again, and see if you're as lucky as me :) I fix about 5 a week from my supplier, and any size from 14 to 22 inch screens usually gets sorted by this kind of repair.
Good Luck.
Hi this is the way how to examine what's wrong with your LCD
monitors. Power on both CPU and monitor. After it turned off, you have to
check if you can see the image on the screen or not by shining a flashlight into the
screen, not directly but find the best angle to the screen and take a look very
closely. If you can see the icons or any image, there will be a minor problem.
Like me, I can see window image using flashlight and check lamps inside. Some
of them were broken and it is easily replaced. If you cannot see anything on
the screen, there'll be some problems with inverter board. If you have
soldering tool and want to fix it by yourself, check the caps first. It may
cause this problem. Some caps might show leaking or burn spot on the board
because of too high temp. If you don't have soldering tool, you better go get a
technician to do so.
i have a lg 1920p that does the same thing.finally got mad and took it apart and found that the plasma or whatever liquid was seeping out from the bottom of the screen which in turn shorted out the board that has all the control buttons on it. disconnected the board and it works fine minus the control buttons.
this is probobly a problem with the power supply. check computer with another monitor in prder to determine which unit causes the problem. lots of electonic devices got a high-voultage defence system, which shuts them off when they receive too much power. my guess is the mechanism in charge of adjusting power level to monitor got screwed up for some reason.
The lcd has three parts the screen plate(windows)/the logic(vga)/the inverter(power plug). Parts that go are the backlight ccfl's, behind the plate, and parts of the inverter, ie capacitors, all three take a bit of power from the inverter. The self test check that all the lights are ok and the inverter is ok, else it switchs off, ie if 3/4 light work it will switch off(my own case), hence the on chech error then off, However sometime there are stages of on/off ie on/ but no screen display, if that is the case the following may be of help...if you put bright light at an angle close to lcd can you see a windows shadow, text icons etc, ie still logic power passing,then .... (from a.n. other) after two weeks searching
I finally find doctor living stone http://www.aplusperfect.com/articles/lcd_capacitor_repair more fun with paulbtorrent, the takening the case bit off is like opening your wallet a second time after buying a new LCD, but you must! smallest two screw driver's flat headed, practice using two pennies stuck together()with your fingers after, one little () move and inch and {} again, with the case , it does
not break, just need to lever open [once open you realize they somehow put that old briefcase clip inside!] also note the bright light test to do first to see if can see a windows screen , and that capacitors are one for a number of things that a make a
inverter work! there a transistors as well, given that however, to replace all the capacitors on my inverter, was 11 capacitors, cost me $11 (uk ebay) and already had the iron and solder. So only cost me me $11 to try and see but no luck , still fun and I still can see the screen for 2 sec' at a time plus I have a spare set of caps now in the event that the new one do go burst! you have to laugh really, what next , a new on/off button, as you work though the whole inverter ! mmmMMMMmmmMMMMmmmMMMMTim Berners-leeMMMMMmmmmMMMMMmmmmcome back all is not
wellMMMMMMMMMMnnnnnnweek later land sight mmmmmMMMMMMMMMmmmmgggggggg(from another a.n other)Generally, if the screen went out quickly, it was the
inverter. If it went out over a slow period of time (flickering etc..) I
would bet it is the lamp.replaceing the lamp should be pretty challenging. as that requires complete breakdown of your LCD, extraction of your dead lamp, and soldering in your new lamp... but I would like to say that I it did this after realizing it's 2 x kitchen strips inside [========] with wires that can connect back to the inverter with out any desoldering(ie kit assembly/dis) with the outter case remove (glass plate safe away) I could reconnect and see that 3/4 were working (i!i hardcard ) cause the inverter to switch off after a secound ! order ccfl and replace and going
to cheap and see if I can get away with fitting a 15" in my 19' as it a 1/3 of the price ! the market as drop out there, hope the inverter does not miss the length, or the screen out put.
http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/troubleshooting/LaptopCCFL1.aspx OR MONITOR
LCD's often have problems with the inverters burning out. Using a bright light source, look at the monitor from different angles. If you can see the image in the screen, either your Florescent light is burned out or your inverters that run the lights are bad. Both are replaceable.
Why does everyone assume it's a hardware problem. I have no electrical knowledge or money to repair, buy new, or replace parts for my monitor. Give me more possible software solutions. I think this has something to do with "Auto-adjustment"
Because if I cycle my power button off for 5-10 seconds the monitor works perfectly, but if I cycle it quickly, only allowing it to stay off for 1-2 seconds, it says 'auto adjustment in progress' and turns itself off again.
Why is this? My computer screen stays black whenever I reset my computer unless I cycle it's power button, which annoys me because I just spent the last month tweaking my computer to boot up as quickly as possible, in about 15-20 seconds and all my system is using an old a7v600 1293 mhz motherboard/chipset which is like a decade or more old... so I was proud. Now I can't even see when my computer is restarted and I have to wait an extra 10 seconds to mess with my moniter, Totally wrecked all my work.
thanks.
we have a dell doing the same thing. changed monitors, still the same. when it first comes back after being black, the cpu monitor for usage is pegged. The explorer.exe is the process that is spiking.
It is almost certainly either the gas discharge tubes (flourescent backlights) for the screen, or the inverter (electonics) that powers the lights. Both of these components fail / wear with age, particularly in earlier screens.
Sony has seen this before. Model SDM-HS73. Here is there advise for this problem.
==============================================
The LCD turns itself off and on every few minutes or seconds.
function lno1() {}
lno1()
If the LCD takes several minutes to turn on, or turns itself off and on every few minutes or seconds, perform the following procedure to troubleshoot the issue:
- Ensure the power cord is connected to a known working outlet.
- Verify that the detachable interface cable is securely connected to both the computer and the display.
- If available, connect another display to the computer to confirm the computer is operating properly.
- Use a different interface cable to connect the display to the computer.
=============================================
This did not resolve the problem with my monitor.
I had the same problem and found that my power supply got mixed up with another. I found a bigger power supply and it fixed the problem.
I agree with the other solution poster. My en-9110 is doing the same thing and the light on the power brick is cycling on/off with the display. Contact Envision for an RMA if the monitor is still under warranty, if not you can get a cheap power brick off ebay. I would buy an OEM type one though and not a universal one.
replace all capicitors ....also i noticed that my board had a bit of a burn beside the main capicitor just a little nothing to seriuos... 450v capistor forgot what the uf was...but anyway i checked that capicitor it lost 7% of its energy storage capability and normally when u replace capicitors is when u lose 5%....sooooo....hint anybody? i guess ill just do this...also before my monitor went bad (19" dell lcd flat screen) i did mess with resolutions with my computer and stuff i was just curious maybe my monitor just got stuck in an old cycle of changing its resolution and cant...i guess time will just tell
could this be simply "heat" not being able to circulate air thru the side slots of the outer case of the monitor?
Got the same issue will post once I Fix it ;)
I see the problem is some burned parts on the circuit board. If someone who can find the repair manual and replace these parts, the problem should be fixed.
huizhang78@hotmail.com
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If you can identify the parts, most likely capacitors, or if you just want to repalce all the capacitors on the power pcb, then you can buy replacement capacitors at your nearest RadioShack. I know RadioShack gets a bad rep for cheap components but I would bet that you will get a supierior cap from RadioShack compared to what's already in your monitor. If you're not electrically inclined, then be very careful because the monitor (large capacitors) has high voltage even when it's uplugged. If you do decide to change the caps then look at the existing caps on the board that you want to change. They will be labeled with the uF (micro farrad) and voltage rating of the capacitor. You will want to get a new capacitor with the same uF number as the one you are replacing and a voltage rating the same (or higher) than the one your are replacing. CAUTION: Do not get a capacitor with a voltage rating that's lower than the one being replaced - this can lead to trouble and is also a fire hazard. This shouldn't be a problem as most capacitors in monitors today are rated for 120V and most RadioShack capacitors are rated for 240V. If you can't find a capacitor with the same uF as the one you're replacing, then you can hook multiple capacitors in parallel (legs of each are soldered to the same joint). Hooking up capacitors in parallel sums their uF capcacity.. For instance, assuming you want to replace a 22uF capacitor but RadioShack has only 10uF and 2uF capacitors. Then replace the 22uF capacitor with two 10uF capacitors and one 2uF (10uF 10uF 2uF = 22uF) hooked in parallel... hope this helps.
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I Had The Same problem With my iiyama E481S. it Kept Switching off then switched its self back on if u left it long enough till the other week when it wouldnt switch on at all. After a few hours of checking insife i found there was a dry joint on power PCB. So Re-solderd its (was L101 on mine) and works fine again....
check for some dry joints in the primary section of psu especially on the main filtering capacitor and on chopper transformer
I have a 19" HP f1905e LCD monitor. Twice recently, my PC failed to boot - it automatically tried rebooting (successfully) and told me my monitor was the problem.
Went to MSFT: there was an upgrade driver. Downloaded and installed it. Henceforth, the power saver kicked on every 2 seconds, regardless of key use or mouse movements. Finally caught it in a stable condition, and restored to a period prior to the upgraded driver (getting rid of it). Suddenly - all is well and working perfectly again!
Go figure.....
i have the same problem with MY monitor which just happens to be the 19" screen. ive also noticed that the green light on the power button keeps blinking. if i just disconnect the video input the monitor actualy stars on and shows the xerox screen and the proceeds to searh for an imput n then goes to sleep as usual. plug in the video in, and it power cycles. verified the cord and the source as normal so the problem is definately the monitor. the question is, wwhats the problem
yeah open it up and look around for bad caps or any other signs of problems hint hint im sure you will see
My En-7100si monitor doing the same thing...has turn off and on several times the monitor-at least 4x- to make it to work-after turnig the computer off for 1/2 an hour or from stanby mode. It works no problem after. I have't done anything yet rather than inspections of connectors. I'll dig it probably later after work.
Ignore solution #8. It is complete nonsense.
I keep on getting the contrast bar and evertime I press exit it comes up again. Basically I cannot get ride of the contrast bar in the middle of the screen. It' slike the down button is being pressed all the time! Also if I stitch off the monitor it takes ages to put it on again. (bulullu@hotmail.com)
another site I found on google said it was bad solder joints causing the problem. I have an aoc (envision) lm729 ,that is under warranty. so i got rma and sent it in. this monitor went from staying on and going off to just staying on for 10 seconds and going off untill you turned it off and back on, then you had another 10 seconds. if you google it ,a guy has a web page with pics on a diy repair. but use extreme caution when opening any monitor, high voltage is present, and mercury gas in lcd monitors. is best left to a service tech with monitor / television experience. safer to buy a new one, then end up in the emergency room or worse. and cheaper than the er. most stores now have an extended warranty option ,so all you have to do is carry it in for free replacement of one of equal value.
According to Samsung, the problem is that the monitor is going into and out of sleep mode. The recommend pressing a key on the keyboard and if that doesn't work, press the third button from the right in the bottom corner of the monitor, then press a key on the keyboard. Needless to say, none of that worked. It's not software because I've installed Samsung's drivers.
It must be the monitor. If I could just take it out of auto power save mode. My power scheme in Windows is to NOT power off the monitor when it's plugged in.
I've tried it on a computer that has SyncMaster 740 N attached and I've got the exact same problem.
Kill the auto power save mode and I'm sure it would work fine. But I don't know how to do that.
I'm having the same problem and I know it isn't any of the other's above. The computer is hooked to a KVM and there are 11 other machines using the exact same monitor (I'm typing on it now) without issue. More still, the monitor was working some 15 minutes ago and I can't figure out anything that's changed except the mouse started spontaniously working on a completly different computer. I'm thinking it's maybe a software problem.
I had to run Malwarebytes to remove 2 ad ware issues and my monitor then stopped turning off and on. Hope it helps !
There are 4 identical transistors in the backlight circuit of these monitors (C5707 or cross-reference to NTE2668, about $3 each) which are prone to failure. They can be replaced by anyone with basic electronics knowledge and soldering skills. Also if your monitor has failed to the point where it doesn't try to light the backlight at all, the failed transistor may have blown a pico-fuse in the power supply circuit. These are labelled on the board as "PF"
replace 1000 ufr capiciters
This didnt work for me. I unplugged the monitor power cable and put into another power outlet, but it still keeps on doing the same thing.
Hi, My l1lcd2 17 in. Flat Monitor has a problem.
The Blue on led comes on and then it goes to amber and the blue led comes back on and the screen shows the first page for just a moment and pops off. and contiues to repeat this on and off. This happens very fast.I tried other computers with no luck.
Please advise. Seapple@bellsouth .net
Thank you, Sheldon Apple Merritt isl. fl.
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This fix that i sugessted is only valid for an HP Vf15 or a compaq FP5315