Question about Kenmore Oasis HE 27062 Top Load Washer

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Washer making a weird noise

Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} I purchased my Kenmore Elite Oasis washer in Aug of 2006. I've already had to replace the main board in my dryer. And now I'm having problems with the washer and of course it's not under warranty any more. Anyway, when the washer starts the rinse or spin cycle it makes a really strange rattling noise. At first I thought that maybe there was something in the washer tub that was rattling around, but there's nothing in there. The noise is coming from the back of the washer and the display isn't flashing any error codes. The washer just keeps running, but something is wrong or it wouldn't be making that noise. I don't want to keep using the washer and ruin it. I have a family of 6 and I need my washer to work. Please help.
We have the HE 27062601 and today it started making loud rattling noises just as described above. I pulled the washer out of position and removed the back. While holding my hand on the drain pump we test ran the washer and could feel the rattling in that pump located in the lower right side of the washer (looking from operator's position). Unplug the washer from electrical outlet. Compress and move the drain hose clamp out of the way and put a catch dish under the pump. Partially removing the hose will allow you to meter out the water. After draining a couple of dishes of water (dog dishes work great), I did the same with the short elbow hose leading to the pump until the pump was drained. With a flashlight, I could then see the dime that was rattling under the plastic pump impeller. Caution... there were actually two dimes so it pays (literally) to double check for all debris in the pump.

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I didn't get to answer this but It makes "cents" to me.

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

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I believe that everything else is fine rather it is the thermal fuse that is located inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct that is bad and should be replaced. If you want you can test this fuse for continuity and if it is bad then it should be replaced, as it cannot be reset. If the fuse is fine then it can be due to the control board that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

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This symptom indicates a stuck key on the user interface control board.
Replacing this control board would most likely fix this type of problem.
The part number for the user interface for this model is 8564374.

You can order this part from www.SEARSPARTSDIRECT.com

The procedure for replacing this control board is shown in the images below.

NOTE: You should only attempt this procedure if you are completely confident in your technical ability to safely execute the process.
Follow electrical safety guidelines. Unplug the washer before accessing internal components.

Before buying any parts I suggest you access the interface ribbon and disconnect it and then connect it back and see if there is any improvement.

You might also remove the interface from the console and check the console for any stuck buttons.

Remember to unplug the washer first.


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forgot to include the most important step! We got the dimes out after wadding up a small piece of duct tape, sticky side out, and using locking forceps to grip the tape while fishing out the dimes from the drain pump.

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