Question about Schumacher DSR ProSeries Battery Charger - 250/65/35/5 Amp, Model# PSW-61224

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Hi: We purchased a Schumacher SE-4022, (very similar to the DSR ProSeries only 200/100/40/10/2 amp, manual operation). It worked great for the 1st few months & now it has no amp output indicated on any range, and it doesn't charge any of our batteries. The switches / timer / fan, etc seem to work and the unit sounds like it's carrying a load, but no charging output. Unit will probably be covered by warranty, but that take time, and we need it now to charge several batteries. We found a parts distributor, Century Tool, http://www.centurytool.netSE_4022_Schumacher_Battery_Charger_Parts_List_s/30715.htm which offers a rectifier module for $30+, but we can't find a Schematic. Hoping to find a Reset Button, Replaceable Fuse, Etc to have a quick fix, but the parts list doesn't show any of these items. It does now a Breaker, which is supposed to Click Open on an Overload, but we don't hear any Clicks, or see Amps jump, to indicate an overload. Your Suggestion, Troubleshooting Tips, Schematics, Etc would be appreciated & helpful. If your best advice is to use the Warranty, that's OK also...... Thanks, Leo

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I'm working on one right now. Not sure if it's the SE-4022 but the ratings are the same. 200/100/40/10/2 Amps. The rectifier diodes exploded in it. ie: Big bang, and smoke. Smoke is never a good thing. Pulled it apart. The diodes are press fit like a lot of car alternators. The number on the diodes is DT B7504A XXXX (Last four digits are a date code. Not important.) The diodes are made by DioTec BUT, they don't sell "retail". They supply manufacturing. I talked to DT's top guy and he told me to get the NTE5934 diodes from Newark Electronics. (Google it if you're not familiar with them.) Present price is $5.24 each. (ie: Cheap.)You have to press the old ones out and press the new ones in. I removed the aluminum plate from the unit and pressed out the old ones with my drill press. Put a deep socket (3/4") under the blown diode sitting on the drill table. Tighten the chuck so the nose is closed and sticking out. Push out diode with the nose of the chuck. Pressing the new ones in is more tricky. Keep the 3/4" socket under the plate. You then want a DEEP socket big enough to just press on the metal around the perimeter of the new diodes. BUT NOT TOUCH the insulator/pin part. You should be able to use the chuck nose against the back of the socket to push the new diodes in. I suggest using some heat sink compound or dielectric grease on the diode before pressing it in. Helps prevent corrosion between the metal plate and diode. THE DIODE HAS TO BE VERY TIGHT IN THE PLATE WHEN PRESSED IN. If it's loose at all, it won't transfer heat to the plate, the diode will overheat, and do pretty much the same as it's predecessor. If the diode(s) are loose after you install them, press them out again, and see if you can "close" the hole up a bit. Suggestion: put the plate on a flat metal surface (back of vise?) with the "flare" of metal facing up. Tap on that flare with a hammer that has a large enough head to hit the whole flare at once. Don't do too much. Try the diode again. Still too lose? Remove and tap again with hammer. Pain in the **** I know, but it's the only way I can see to get the diodes tight. DON'T use epoxy or "glue" in place of tightening the metal. The glue won't transfer the heat. As long as there is nothing else wrong with the charger, this will cost less than $15.00 plus your time. A lot cheaper than buying a new charger.

Posted on Mar 13, 2012

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Question, I have a heat sink with 4 holes and only 2 diodes which have to leads on each coming from the transformer, wouldn't be better to replace the 2 diodes with 4 diodes with a single wire to the trans?

Posted on Jul 18, 2015

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SOURCE: battery charger- schumacher se 4020

Century Tool and Equipment. $3.99

http://www.centurytool.net/SE_2158_Schumacher_Battery_Charger_Parts_List_s/30946.htm

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