Question about Kenmore 72622 Gas Dryer

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No heat MY DRYER HAS NO HEAT IN ANY CYCLE,DIAL WILL MOVE IN TIMED.IGNITOR WILL START THEN GO OUT IN SECONDS.CHANGED THERMAL FUSE,DIDN'T HELP

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Peace,
For this you need a professional hands on diagnostics!

Don't tinker with it and wast any more monay on random parts!
Service time!

Bless You ngafm
Plese leave me rating at our site!

Posted on Sep 09, 2008

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Admiral Dryer Model #AGD4475TQ No Heat


This is very rare on a gas dryer but I have seen it. If you have already replaced all that other stuff I would say it has to be inside the timer. On one I worked on once I could remove that orange wire and the dryer would function ok so I ordered a new timer, they sent me a bad timer. Same problem. I finally got a working timer after going through a bunch of mess. That fixed it. So if all the other components are working it very well could be the timer.

Dec 02, 2013 | Admiral Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer wont heat up


You will have to remove the back panel to access this part. Be sure that you unplug the machine before starting. Once the back panel has been taken off and placed aside the thermal switch will be located on the left lower side near the blower housing . It will be thin and long and located near the cycling thermostat that has for prongs on it. On certain machines, the thermal fuse is located in the front. To access this you must remove the kickplate, which can be done by pushing the clips, one on each side jsut above the top of the kickplate, in between the top and abottom portion. The part numbers are the same for either style dryer. To test this part you can either take the wires off it and tie them together then plug the machine back in and see if it heats, or you can use amultimeter and check to see if there is continuity, if there is its good, if not, bad. The thermal fuse will usually be white, and if located in the back, be thin and long with two wires on it, left and right. If in the bottom front, it will be front center on the exhaust duct. In some cases the ignitor or the gas coils will go bad. Here is a good process of elimination.
1)Verify that the thermal fuse is good. If you don't have a meter bypass it and turn the machine on. If heats, thermal fuse is bad, if not leave connected and continue
2)When the dryer starts and thermal fuse bypassed, the ignitor should start to get hot and glow, if your thermal fuse is in the back you are going to have to have to the top of the dryer up to see down inside near the front for the glow. You can do this by taking the lint trap out and removing the two screws and popping the top up. If the ignitor comes on more than likely the gas coils are bad and if it doesn't the ignitior is bad. (this is while the thermal fuse is bypassed so the ignitor has power to it regardless)

Jun 05, 2012 | LG DLG5932S Gas Dryer

1 Answer

So, i changed the ingnitor in my affinity gas dryer, it runs through the cycle now, but still no heat?


Most of the time it's the thermal fuse and not the ignitor. Check the fuse for continuity. It's the thin white fuse with 2 wires connected to it.

May 26, 2012 | Frigidaire Affinity 5.8 Cu. Ft. Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Gas dryer will not heat up. Flame ignites on occasion. Changed the ingnitor but still has the same problem


Hello.

If your Maytag dryer has mysteriously stopped producingheat, a blown thermal fuse may be the cause of your problem. In Whirlpool dryers,thermal fuses are safety switches that are designed to disrupt the flow ofelectricity to your dryer's heating mechanisms once the dryer reaches apredetermined maximum temperature, usually somewhere around 180 degrees F.Thankfully, troubleshooting the thermal fuse in a Maytag dryer is easierthan it sounds. Instructions And Things You'll Need
  • Screwdriver
  • Towel
  • Electrical tape
  • Replacement thermal fuse, if necessary
1 Clean out thelint screen in your Maytag clothes dryer. Lint buildup can cause your dryerto overheat, triggering the thermal fuse to disrupt power to your dryer'sheating mechanisms. Take the lint screen out of your Whirlpool dryer and washit in warm water. Dry the screen thoroughly before replacing it.
2 Look behindthe dryer to check its flexible exhaust hose for kinks or obstructions.Disconnect the exhaust hose from the back of your dryer and clean out any lintthat has built up.
3 Go outside andcheck your Maytag dryer's exhaust vent for obstructions. Lint buildup, birdnests or other obstructions in the outside exhaust vent can trigger yourdryer's thermal fuse.
4 Disconnectyour dryer from its power source before attempting to access its thermal fuse.
5 Access the thermal fuse in your Maytag dryer byremoving the back panel. Remove the screws that hold the back panel in placeand it should easily come free.
6 Look betweenthe dryer's blower housing and exhaust to locate its thermal fuse. The thermalfuse in a Whirlpool dryer looks like a white plastic strip that has two wiresconnected to it.
7 Bypass the thermal fuse in your Maytag dryer whileyou perform a quick diagnostic test. Use electrical tape to tape together thetwo wires connected to the thermal fuse. Reassemble your dryer and plug it backin. Set the dryer to a timed heated drying cycle and press "Start."If the dryer produces heat with its thermal fuse bypassed, it means the thermalfuse needs to be replaced.
8 Replace a blown thermal fuse in your Maytag dryer.Disconnect the power and remove the back panel. Remove the electrical tape thatyou used to perform the diagnostic test and disconnect the wires from thethermal fuse. Remove the screws that secure the thermal fuse to the dryer anddiscard the blown fuse. Attach the replacement thermal fuse by replacing andtightening the screws. Attach the wires to the new thermal fuse.
Thanks for using fixya.

Jul 31, 2011 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer is running, but heat will not turn on


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back.

Jul 27, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

The heat does not work and the timer does not shut off at the end of the cycles. the dryer just continues to run forever. I have pulled the back off and all the connections look ok and the breakers are all...


if the timer is on auto it will not advance without heat,when the heat cycles off the timer moves,if it's doing this on time dry you could have a bad timer,send model number and read out the ignitor,the thermal fuse located on the blower wheel housing,the sensor,also make sure power is coming down to the thermal fuse and ignitor,also if dryer is loaded with lint and needs a clean out this could have started your problems,let me know if you still need help and let me know what you find out after you read out the parts

Jan 19, 2010 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs,ignitor is "not" clicking. dryer set to automatic, with about 10 mins left on timer, dryer continued to run untill manually turned off. when re-started ignitor would not ignite


DRYER TIMER WILL NOT ADVANCE UNTIL PROPER TEMP IS REACHED.TRY IT ON TIME CYCLE.DOES IT HEAT ?IF NOT REPLACE THERMAL FUSE AND TSTAT MOUNTED ON BLOWER HOUSING .REMOVE REAR PANEL OF MACHINE TO ACCESS THIS..~COST $35+

Dec 12, 2009 | Kenmore 74612 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer not blowing hot air


Hi, If you use the automatic dry cycle, there needs to be heat in order for the timer to advance.
Remove the little cap in the front lower left corner and start the dryer. The ignitor should glow for about 15 seconds and then the gas should ignite. If there is no glow from the ignitor and the fuse is good, you will need to remove the front panel and check the senser on the burner, the ignitor, and the thermostats.
I hope this helps you. If you need more assistance on this issue, please let me know.

Vic

Jul 03, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

No Heat


Hello
Welcome to Fixya


Remove the vent line from the rear and try the dryer.
If it heats then that means there is a clog or kink in the vent line blocking the vent air from exiting which will stop the dryer from getting hot!
If not then it's another one of these problems.

Defective Ignitor (Gas Only)
When heated the ignitor used on your gas dryer must obtain a specific high temperature
in order to activate the flame sensor. This ignitor is fragile and susceptible to cracking.
A hairline fracture that is barely visible to the naked eye is enough to change
the resistance of the ignitor to a point that is will not work properly.
You can test the resistance of your ignitor. You should get a reading of 50-400 ohms of
resistance.

If the ignitor gets hot and then goes off after about 10-15 seconds and there is
no ignition, the problem is probably not the ignitor. It is most likely the gas valve
coils that are defective.

If the ignitor comes on and stays on, it is the flame sensor that is defective.

If the ignitor is not getting hot it could also be one of the thermostats that is defective.
The power for the ignitor is passed from the timer, through all of the thermostats,
limit switches and fuses to the ignitor. So if you are not getting power to the ignitor
during ignition, you should check the continuity of the individual thermostats and fuses.
DRYER DOES NOT HEAT



Defective Gas Valve Coil (Gas Dryer Only)

If the gas dryer will light once but will not relight until it cools down, it is likely the gas valve coils are faulty. These coils loose some strength when subjected to heat. When they become old, the addition of heat may be enough to prevent them from opening the gas valve when hot. However the coils still work when when cool.

An easy way to diagnose the coils when the burner is not lighting, watch the ignitor. If the the ignitor glows for 10 to 15 seconds but no flame is created, then the coils are faulty. If the ignitor is not glowing the problem is elsewhere.

Recent Customer Symptoms:
The dryer burner doesn't always come on when starting. If the burner does come on, once it goes off if won't come on again until the dryer cools down.



Defective Flame Sensor (Gas Dryer Only)
The flame sensor's job is to monitor the ignitor for sufficient heat
to ignite the gas. A properly operating flame sensor will pass a
continuity check under room temperature.

Common Symptoms
If the flame sensor is defective in the open position,
the ignitor will not get hot when the dryer is started.
However, if it is defective in the closed position the ignitor
will get hot, but the flame sensor will not allow the flame to ignite.
In this case, the ignitor will usually stay hot for a long period of
time.



Defective Thermostat
The thermostats are responsible for maintaining the proper temperature
in the dryer. Check the exhaust temperature of the dyer and if the
temperature is above 150 degrees, you will most likely need to change
the operating thermostat.

The thermostat can also fail in the opposite mode.
It can prevent the element from heating at all.
A failed continuity check at room temperature will verify this condition.

There are some special thermostats that are single pole double throw.
These thermostats are often used to control the timer when set to the
Automatic Dry cycle. If the dryer timer will advance in the Timed Dry
cycle but not the Automatic Dry cycle, then the thermostat could be the
problem.


Defective Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is in series with one leg of power to the motor.
If the fuse is open (no continuity) the motor will not run.

Location:
The thermal fuse is located in different locations according
to the model and brand of dryer.

Solution:
Check the thermal fuse for continuity with a volt/ohm meter.
If it is open, it will need to be replaced






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Jan 25, 2009 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

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