I have the exact same problem with my S8.3 that I purchased a few months ago. It's just the blue LED that doesn't light up, otherwise it seems to output bass and the volume control works. Can I change the led? Any suggestions?
Re: Energy S 8.3 Woofer; blue led doesen't light up
Bought a S10.3 in jan/2010, LED died a month later. I've repaired it by myself. After inspecting circuit, I've found that their design puts almost 14V of reverse bias upon that poor blue LED. These components are not usually expected to sustain more than 5V of reverse polarization. So, in my opinion, there is a design flaw. To make a long lasting repair, you just need to insert a general purpose diode in series with the LED, such as an inexpensive 1N4148 ($0.05). And, of course, any readily available 3V, 5mm, through-hole round blue LED (I think crystal clear should be better).
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Check the status indicator - The LED found on the front panel should be illuminate in blue
when the subwoofer is functioning. If the unit is in Auto mode and is not receiving a signal, the light will remain off. Try setting the power switch on the back to ON if in the Auto setting.
Post back the status of your LED.
Hey. I have two PS210's One popped and stopped working 9 months in to it. Under warranty the technician said that Infinity produced these speakers wit ha known heat related problem. Some part burns up. He replaces them all the time. You can expect about a year's service as my seconf one just popped and died. It costs about $153 to fix it here in phoenix. Will never buy Infinity again from what I know
I have the exact same problem with my S8.3 that I purchased a few months ago. It's just the blue LED that doesn't light up, otherwise it seems to output bass and the volume control works. Any suggestions?
The flashing blue LED and loss of sound on the Alesis M1 powered monitor is caused by failure of capacitor C8 (220uF, 35V) on the power supply board. It dries up due to its proximity to resistor R4 (47K, 2 W) which gets very hot. This is a design fault.
Remove the power supply board (4 corner screws and 2 mains connector screws) and disconnect the two plugs. Carefully desolder C8 and replace it. Its value is not critical (220 to 470 uF will do) but it should be a 105 deg. type, preferably at 50V.
Remove R4 and replace it with a similar resistor with its leads bent so that it is nowhere near C8, otherwise the fault will return. One end may be connected to one of the existing R4 solder pads (furthest from rear of board), and the other to the top end of resistor R3. Check that you have connected it correctly by inspecting the PCB tracks.
Replace the board and all screws and plugs before testing.