Question about Coleman Powermate Premium Plus 6250W Portable Generator

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Coleman Powermate 6250

I have a Coleman Powermate generator Model PM 0525305 Ser# 96171339
that is maybe a couple of years old,have not used it maybe 40 hours at most.I started it up a couple of days it ran find for about 30 minutes then
all of a sudden it started running faster,check it and found ON/OFF switch
had somehow went from the On postion to half way between ON/OFF and it will not move,to ON or OFF,it did cut off by the choke.I tried to call Coleman but I understand they are out of business.Can someone tell me
caused this problem and will a new switch solve the problem?

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My answer:

This a fairly common problem & easy fix with the Powermates, and other Gensets in the same class - made in you know where - China.

I seriously doubt if the Ignition Coil had anything to do with the failure of the KILL switch, as by how it's wired in the Genset circuit unless maybe you failed to fully set it to the ON position, and then in that case you may have had some "arc over" internally at that switch contact point to Gnd - prematurely causing a bit of engine surging - as that like which happens just before an engine runs out of gas.

If your Genset has a 3-wire connector harness coming off that ON/OFF switch then most likely there are only 3 wires connected to the back of that switch. One single wire (most likely GRN in color) goes to an/the Engine Block GROUND bolt somewhere - easy to follow.

The other 2 wires will be the same color (every Genset is a bit different so my schematic only says they are #18 with no color stated - possibly WHT though ??), and one of those 2 wires goes to the #1 pin of that 3-wire harness connector, which in turn is WHT in color on the other side of that 3-wire harness connector pin #1, and goes back to the Control Board inside the Front Panel Box. The other #18 switch wire goes to the Ignition Coil Primary side. Lets hope it's just a bad switch and not a bad Control Board.

Most likely the switch contacts inside just burned out from heat breakdown, as when you go to shut off the Genset - by turning it to OFF - the switch has to take the Ignition Coil Primary voltage/current and basically SHORTS it to Ground thus collapsing the Ignition Coil by robbing the Primary excitation voltage. It's bound to fail if it's a "cheap switch design" to begin with. AND - we all know about cheap Made in China stuff now don't we?

Just so you know - you are not the only one in this same Genset boat - as there are tons of people out there with far worse Powermate problems then just a simple switch problem like you have there. Count your blessings!

You are right about Powermate being out of business though, but not all hope is lost there either when you read everything farther below - as to factory service and parts for your Genset.

I know it's a little long, but the info farther below may be of future help to you later down the road - so copy and print it out for later reference just in case you have other Powermate Genset issues or this site goes down as well....hahahaha.....just kidding.

If you choose to contact the PRAMAC people about getting a new switch, and repairing the Genset yourself here are a couple options for you. If their factory replacement part is outrageously high in price - then you have another option.

If you are handy with a good soldering iron and some good 60/40 Kester solder and acid flux all you have to get is a good ON-OFF single-pole single-throw (only 2 wire connection points for the wires) toggle switch rated at 120 VAC or 12-24 VDC, and at least 10-15 amps rated, and just do it yourself. $5 part worst case!!

DO NOT use a Momentary switch type - as then someone could start the Genset inadvertently - esp if you have smaller kids around!!

Just make sure you get a good solder connection on the wires and the switch tabs, and make sure you tin both the wires and the switch tabs first to get good results. If the switch doesn't fit the old hole perfectly you may have to do a bit of modification work there.

Sorry - I can't help you out there. Make sure you mark the switch as to ON & OFF - unless you find one with a metal ON-OFF backplate like some come with - as there is no right or wrong way here. It's either one way or the other depending on how you mount the switch to personal preference. Right - Left or Up - Down.

Test the switch first before final mounting by firing the Gennie in whichever is the ON position so you know which is which, and make sure it kills the Gennie when you flip the switch in the opposite direction. That's is all there is to it. You're done!!

Hopefully like I said before the Ignition Coil is OK and so to is the Control Board otherwise I know I'll be hearing back from you soon.

Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.

Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.

Best regards,


Posted on Sep 09, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Frank JR
    Frank JR Sep 09, 2008

    Here's the added info below -

    As you are now hopefully but painfully aware - Powermate has gone
    totally Bankrupt, and is no longer in business as of this past year or

    There is hope though - as I state below in the previous Footnote I posted to many having similar problems.

    Previous Footnote: It's too late now for all those
    out there that
    unfortunately bought these now still Brand New "unserviceable"
    Powermate units that won't start for whatever, whether still Brand New
    "NIB", or whether taken out of the box and still not used, and are
    now seeking some kind of service on them (btw it's a sign of the
    present day GOP ran economic woes we are in AND it will only get worse
    - CHINA is going on the very same downward path right now thanks to you
    know who - W!). If you buy anything today "made in China" you better be
    making a GOOD buying decision - otherwise you will be in the very same situation
    you are in now with your Powermate Gensets - as China is starting to
    collapse from within just like this USA economy of ours has been doing for
    the last 5-6 years to no end! All politics aside as well - as blame is
    put where it is deserved in my books and we can only blame YOU KNOW
    WHO! Sorry but true!

    NOW -

    Any inventory stock of their (Powermate) Gensets - that were once formerly sold in the USA & Canada - have been
    totally liquidated out to a company in Georgia I was told, and it was said to be true.

    I was able to get this NEW added info through another source said to be VERY accurate btw - so hopefully it is.

    That Company's name is PRAMAC, and their address and phone # info is:


    * Regional head office:

    1100 Cobb Parkway North C

    30062 Marietta, Georgia

    Phone: 770-218-5430

    Fax : 770 218 2810


    * International sales office:

    10100 NW 116 Way, Suite 10

    33178 Medley, Florida

    Phone: 305-888-9911

    Fax : 305-888-3711

    Site info:

    PRAMAC Global Gateway

    BUT -

    Before you blame me for any possible false Powermate info posted
    above in regards to that PRAMAC Co, or their contact info - read the
    GOOD NEWS below first.

    The GOOD NEWS is that I spoke with a very close contact inside Home
    Depot (not saying who so don't even ask), and that person gave me some
    very GOOD NEWS for those that act on it NOW!

    Not tomorrow - Not next week - Not next month - and certainly NOT NEXT YEAR!


    I spoke with my Home Depot Corp contact today (using your "not starting" dilemma - as
    my own - to get a response) to see if anything could be done from their
    point of view and here's what I was told to do.

    What I was told is that if I (you) bring in my (your) ORIGINAL HOME DEPOT CASH
    REGISTER DATED RECEIPT and speak to the (whichever Home Depot store
    applies here) Home Depot Store Manager there, and explain to them that
    the brand new never used Powermate Genset they sold me (you in this
    case) won't start - they would send your Genset out to their local
    Genset Service Vendor FREE OF CHARGE BTW, and hopefully get it started
    for you.

    Anything more then that - you would be on your own if it was damaged by you or someone else that tried using it improperly.

    Here's another IMPORTANT FACT my contact at Home Depot told me.

    Almost 90-95% of all the Genset problems found by the factory approved Genset Service Centers
    are related to the fact that people don't read the OWNERS MANUAL first, and
    just didn't put OIL in the Genset (or the right amount) - as they are shipped from the MFR
    without OIL in the units to begin with!!!!

    And here I thought everybody KNEW THAT!!

    I guess sometimes you just have to ask the most OBVIOUS ??'s first huh (dumb as " it " may sound)?

    If you bought your Genset from other then a Home
    Depot Store, and it's still under warranty - then you will have to
    contact that outlet, and see what they have to say or hopefully can do
    for you.

    Esp all those Gensets that are Made in China and have flooded the USA
    market in the last 10 years or so - no thanks to our representatives in
    WASH DC that's for sure. It's a wonder this country even functions with
    all this "inferior" Made in China JUNK that keeps prematurely failing
    before it's normal time. Sad to say the least!

  • Frank JR
    Frank JR Sep 09, 2008

    Some other obvious things to CHECK for that may be the cause of a NO
    start condition even after adding proper gas & oil to the brand new

    1 - Some Genset gas tanks come with a gas cap "blocking insert" under
    the gas cap that should be removed according to your manual if it
    states this. (Read manual section on "First Time Starting")

    2 - Is the gas tank shutoff valve FULLY OPEN? By the same token
    if the Genset is or isn't brand new) does it have an in-line fuel
    filter anywhere in the gas line? If not then esp read #5. Always check
    as well the AIR FILTER for proper cleanliness (if oiled type), or clean
    appearance if it's a paper element type. Clean or replace as needed!

    3 - Is the RUN SWITCH set to ON or RUN position (this is purely an
    "Electrical Switch" btw)? Is it working properly? Test it using a known good quality DVM
    or OHM meter! It's contacts may have become tarnished just from sitting around
    too long? Esp where you have saltwater conditions in the surrounding air!

    4 - Is the choke being set to the proper position with or without using Ether spray to the Carb?

    5 - Does the Carb have a Yellow or Black wire coming off of the bottom
    of the Float Bowl? This goes to the GAS CUT OFF SOLENOID mounted in the
    Main Jet inside the Float Bowl. NEVER CUT THIS WIRE as some know-nothings have
    suggested here and elsewhere in postings, as there are better ways to test the solenoid without doing
    that! If equipped with one - This anti-dieseling solenoid has to work
    properly or else flooding will occur with the gas shutoff valve OPEN.

    6 - VERY IMPORTANT - Is the Carb Float stuck in the CLOSED position
    not letting gas into the Main Jet? If the Genset is brand brand new and
    truly has never been fired up even once and used, such as like that of
    2-3 years or longer from actual date of purchase, then that Carb Float
    may very well be stuck CLOSED. Worse yet - the Main Jet may be clogged
    with MICRO DEBRIS coming down from the new gas tank - esp if there is
    NO FUEL FILTER present in the fuel line. I've heard of this happening
    more then just a few times myself. You might try
    and TAP CAREFULLY on the bottom or side of the Float Bowl
    with a hard rubber hammer first to try and see if you can dislodge the
    stuck Float inside. If there is that colored WIRE (see #5 again) at the
    bottom of the Float Bowl
    HAMMER - as you WILL damage it! If this dislodges the stuck Carb Float
    to the point that the Genset now wants to run to some degree better
    then before, but not fully 100% better and to spec - then you
    definitely still have Carb Float and/or fuel delivery related issues,
    and/or MICRO DEBRIS in the Carb Bowl or Main Jet inlet. If the Genset
    begins to run great - as it should - and coontinues to do so -
    then your NO FUEL or NO RUN problem is solved! I would still take the
    Carb Bowl off and clean out the whole assy there just as an added
    precaution anyway as you just never know. When Gensets are truly needed
    in an emergency condition you just don't want to RISK anything!! NEVER
    FORCE ANYTHING EITHER!! It's possibly that you might have to loosen slightly,
    and/or totally remove the
    Float Bowl (usually 2 screws) to see if indeed any gas is getting
    inside to the Float
    at all. If gas comes out readily but still no gas is getting into the
    Main Jet and intake then you purely have a DIRTY CARB issue and nothing
    If you're not smelling gas through the air filter box then you are FUEL
    STARVED. ALSO - Many a brand new shipped Genset will have some kind of
    NEW gas tank (usually metal gas tanks only) MICRO DEBRIS inside the
    tank itself or even in the rubber gas line (I've heard of this problem before,
    and seen this myself 100's of times with cheaper rubber hoses). That is
    why an added in-line FUEL FILTER (if your Genset has none) is SO
    important!! Usually a common $2-3 item at any auto parts store. Once
    gas is added to the tank all this micro debris is set free to enter
    into the CARB FLOAT BOWL, and that is where Carb problems will start -
    even with a "brand new" never run before Genset!!

    7 - As dumb as this next ? is to ask I have to ask anyway -
    Are you
    getting GOOD spark at the spark plug? Some units ship with the spark
    wire cap disconnected and it may look like it's on the plug, but in
    reality it really isn't fully connected! If you are getting a good
    spark then it's highly unlikely that the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition would be bad. Fouled
    spark plug - YES - bad Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition - hardly.

    8 - If your Genset is used and said to be ? years old, and it just indeed
    might have some high RUNTIME HOURS on it - it just could very possibly
    be what sounds like to me (and I personally HAVE SEEN this
    happen myself firsthand) that the generator brushes are nearly shot
    - as in almost worn out. They may be getting too too hot - as from
    excessive current draw at point of contact, and thus the generator
    sensing circuitry itself is doing an electrical CUTOUT!!

    An added protective Genset circuit feature in that the generator itself
    may indeed be linked to the engine as a type of REV LIMITER or CUTOUT on the Maintenance-free Magnetron® electronic ignition.
    Again - your operators or service manual should have a pretty good
    troubleshooting section in it unless you don't have that anymore or
    never got one if you bought it used to begin with.

    If you unscrew & remove the Generator brushes for servicing yourself, and they are indeed
    below the recommended length (or worse case they are indeed totally
    worn down) then that most likely is your starting or output problem right there. If you are having Output problems as well.

    If you choose to replace the old brushes with new ones yourself - be
    very careful when seating the new ones - as to their insertion and cap
    retainer tightening. Never over-tighten those black plastic-like brush
    retainer screw caps - for if you break one (hard to get immediate
    replacements is why), or fracture one it could cause the Genset to fail
    under LOAD, and that very well could do some severe damage to the
    generator part itself. Take your time doing it, and be patient!!

    It has to be one of the CHECK scenarios listed above, as I've covered every
    possible cause short of a broken wire somewhere - which in that case
    you will have to schematic trace and DVM or Ohm-meter out wire to wire contacts.
    This being the least likely scenario from experience.

    If you indeed find the Float Bowl assy to be the cause of dirt
    contamination or varnish build-up clogging the Carb, and you need a
    walk-through of taking it apart, cleaning it out, and then
    re-assembling it again - as well as re-adjusting the fuel mixture Adjustment Screws - just give me a shout here, and I'll walk you through it step by step.

    Final Note: For all older used Gensets - Are you starting and running
    the Gennie for at least 10 mins every month (30 days) as required by
    most all Mfrs? Are you also keeping & running a good FUEL
    PRESERVATIVE/STABILIZER (as required) in each tank of gas no matter how
    often you run it? BEFORE you totally shutdown your Genset after running
    it (even those short 10 required mins every month) are you first
    shutting off the gas supply completely, and then running the Genset out
    DRY from as much gas from the Carb Bowl and gas line as you can? You
    should be doing all of these things as well if you want a smooth
    running Genset when that real emergency does come up, and that Genset
    absolutely has to work 100%!

    That's about all there is unless you got a truly Defective Genset right from the start. Next stop - Home Depot!

    Best regards to all with the same problems, and hope I helped you out 100% - all political humor/truth aside.

    Please post me a reply as to finding this solution being the best
    resolve to your Genset problem there by following my recommendations
    above. Also please rate my troubleshooting fix as well.

    Keep me posted and I'll follow up as well.

    Best regards,


  • petesaire1 May 07, 2011

    6250 powermate it runs but trips out on one phase not triping the bracker then you wait and it cimes back on



Dosen't this model have a Tecumseh engine ? If so you should be able to get engine parts including
the kill switch from them.

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

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When using the 220 volts to run a pump, it trips out after about a minute. It doesn't trip the pumps breaker and the pump runs good with another generator. It may have been putting out less power ? What do I need to replace?

Posted on Jul 11, 2010

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