Radio is in excellent condition, ran and checked power wires with good continuity through the system, 12.5 volts. When you turn the power knob on, nothing happens. I tried shorting out the faceplate thinking that might be the problem, however, this did not solve the problem. I saw this has an internal battery for memory preset retention, which the manual said has to take up to 36 hours for it to charge. The radio has not been connected to power for quite awhile, does this have anything to do with the problem? Does this internal battery have anything to do with powering on? Any advice and solutions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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Voltage conversion necessitates the replacement of all 6 volt light bulbs and motors with 12 volt light bulbs and motors (including the starter), plus the addition of a ballast resistor to the ignition primary so that the ignition primary can continue to operate on 6 volts. You will need to refit a 12 volt starter solenoid, alternator, and regulator to the vehicle as well. Needless to point out that you will also need to replace the radio. You can use the original wiring if it is in good condition, and all switches should operate adequately as long as their insulators are still intact. The 12 volt system uses less current than the 6 volt system, so there should be no problem with wire gauge. IMPORTANT:If the original system is POSITIVE GROUND instead of NEGATIVE GROUND, you will need to verify the polarity of all motors you replace, plus reverse the polarity of the ignition coil primary.
A common error wiring an after-market car stereo is where to connect the BATTERY and ACCESSORY wires. Under most conditions, these two wires do NOT get connected to the same point. The BATTERY wire connects to, well, the 12 volt positive terminal of the battery (or any 12 + volt source that is ALWAYS powered). This allows the radio clock to keep time and maintain the radio station presets when the vehicle is off / key is removed.
The ACCESSORY wire is connected to a point in the vehicle's electrical system that has 12 volts + whenever the ignition key is turned to the Run or Acessory position. When the key is NOT in these positions, the point should go from 12 volts + to 0. This change tells the radio to turn on or off, depending on the key position. The radio will power down when the key is removed, so you do not need to manually shut the radio off. This can save the battery if the radio volume was very low. The ONLY time you would accept both of these wires to be connected to the same point is when they are BOTH connected to the 12 volt + terminal of a battery (or wire that is always powered). If you wire this way, you will have to tune the power on and off each time you want to listen to the radio.
Check you manual for color or lable of these two wires, and place them as needed for the desired operation 1) Both on a constant 12 volt + source, or 2) BATT to a constant 12 volt + source and ACC to switched 12 volt + source.
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Usually, purchase of a wiring harness designed specifically for your vehicle model and stereo solves this problem - as the required voltages and signals - including speakers - are made up and it is simply a "plug and play" operation. Newer cars will often require a "magic box" if you will, that uses some data signals in the car to turn on and off voltages for the stereo. Not installing the "magic box" will prevent much of the radio from working and can cause the loss of chimes, etc.
If you are using a power supply. Get you a better power supply(full filtered) RADIO SHACK has many 12 volt 3 amp models. Run power wires away from radio about 10 feet away to eliminate hum. AM does hum when its near power lines, household appliances. Keep it away from TV's etc. Turn off TV then listen to it. Make sure you have good outdoor antenna like Antron A99 18ft. Fiberglass on Tv pole or Tower. If its inside car --its the engine. you need a Radio Shack Power filter. A coil of wire wrapped around a core and big capacitor on the (+) side shunted to ground by a 470uf Capacitor. Turn off engine then listen.
If it is a new radio first make sure your power wire is actually hot. Use a multi meter. Also you may have a blown fuse in the fuse panel. Check that. Make sure it is grounded as well. Improper ground will make it not power on as well. For this radio Blue = Remote that you run to your amp or power antenna. Insulate it if you are not using either. Black is Ground. Red = Your accessory wire and should only get 12 volts when the key is turned on (switched 12 volt source.) Yellow is your continuous power source. Hook this to your battery or other suitable continuous 12 volt power source. It also has a 5 amp fuse inline. Make sure it did not blow. Replace it to be absolutely sure. Use another 5 amp fuse. Never go higher. The other wires are for speaker hook up. If you do all this and still no power. You may have a faulty radio. Good luck.
Your midland CB will use a standard 4 pin wired CB plug which is most common for most mics sold today. Your power cord will be a standard 3 pin CB power cord which again is most common with CB's today. You need not purchase a "radio specific" cord or mic. Cobra, Uniden, Midland all the same mic pin out and power cords. Good luck.
buy a digital volt meter and start checking fuses for the radio at fuse panel . if blow replace it . if not blown remove radio from dash check to see if radio is still grounded . if still grounded take the volt meter turn on to dc volts and take black test lead touch to your radios ground the touch the red test lead to the red with to see if you get 12 volt with car on if not need to find out why .. take to professsinal ..
you can also check the yellow wire on radio it should have 12 volts allways doesnt matter if car in off or running this saves memory for clock and station presets.
if every thing is test out right then you need to buy new radio ..
if you dont feel good about doing this yourself find a mecp car audio installer and have them troubleshoot your problem maybe expensive but a good tech could find out problem with in the first 30 to 45 minutes it get 35.00 per hour to troubleshoot car audio system ...
Did you double check your work? Did you check the resistance of the fuses? Just because the fuse appears to be good, it can still be blown. Do you have access to a multimeter? You need to check and see if the head unit is receiving 12 Volts continuous which you put the multimeter probes to the black wire and the yellow wire. Then connect the probes to the black wire and the red wire. This wire should only have power when the car is cut on. If you are not getting 12 volts to these points, the problem is your wiring system somewhere...probably a fuse. If you are getting 12 volts, your head unit is garbage. I want to say it is the fuse.
This is an indication that the "ACC" line is not getting the 12 volts to turn on the radio. Check the fuses, it may have blown one. The "ACC" is the red wire that comes off the back of the radio harness. It needs a 12 volt supply when the key is turned on for the radio to work properly. When this is missing, you will have the conditions you have described. The yellow wire is for a constant 12 volts even when the radio is off and the car is off. Since you do get the eject and the clock display you have a good ground, so that is not an issue. You just need to find out why you do not have the 12 volts on the red wire when the key is turned on in the car.