Fitting pro cut head

You may be forced to cut the copper pipe and buy a new compression fitting and ferrule and add it to the cut off end of the copper tubing when you decide to re-hookup the refrigerator.
Remember to cut the pipe , if you choose to do so, with a tubing cutter so as not to "smash" the cut end.
This problem can happen any time dissimilar metals are joined, they can "freeze" together.
God bless your efforts.

Belt tensioner? Usually takes a 3/8 " ratchet or 3/8 " breaker bar to rotate the belt tensioner.
Get in there with an inspection mirror(It's tight quarters!).
Some Toyota's require a skinny wrench to fit onto the 14 mm bolt head.Some are 17 mm.
Socket won't get in there.
Some cars require loosening the engine mount and jack the engine up to gain enough clearance!(Mitsubishi)

Hi Thomas, I have not changed CV's on your type of vehicle, but can give you the path to follow. Here we go; Always work with someone to assist you. pepare four plastic bags for use later. With both front wheels on the ground remove any wheel covers fitted. In the center of the wheel you will see the shafts of the CV's. These are held in position with large nuts, either locked with a tab or sometimes with a locking washer and split pin. Unlock whichever system is used and loosen the nuts on the shafts. Loosen the wheel nuts, jack up the vehicle and place chassis stands to support the vehicle and the lower it onto the stands. Remove the wheels and remove the center nuts from the CV joints. If the vehicle is fitted with McPherson struts, loosen the two through bolts and nuts, or if fitted with wishbone suspension loosen and remove the bolts securing the the upper ball joints. Swing the stub axle outward and downwards so that there is enough room to remove the CV shafts from from the hubs. Put on a pair of goggles and then climb under the vehicle and release the boots or retaining bolts holding the shaft into the spyder or inner CV joint. Once removed pull the half shaft out of the housings keeping everything as clean as possible and wrap in a plastic bag.. (There will be high impact grease inside both the inner and outer joints, This may have been thrown out in the event that the rubber boots are broken) If you are replacing the entire half shafts, carefully observe the way in which the inner joint is fitted. If there are no bolts, studs or nuts holding a flange onto the gear box differential housing, the inner joints will be held in place by spring loaded clips fitted around the ends of the inner shafts. If your vehicle uses that type of fitting the shafts will be levered out. It will be important to use a catchment tray to collect any transmission oil which leaks out. Cover the joint with one of the plastic bags. If you are fitting only the outer CV's, the defective units are knocked off the shafts with a heavy copper mallet (The shafts also have locking cur clips holding the shafts in place. Sometimes the inner basket of the CV bearing housing will need to be cut or broken out, so the the joint can be removed. Please both you and your friend use safety goggles during this procedure. Once removed, fit the new joint. If you are replacing the entire assembly and if they are the type using clips, use a thick piece of wood and hold the shaft as straight as possible then ask your pal to knock the shaft into the housing. The rest of the job is the opposite to removal. When fitting the outer CV shaft nut follow the correct tightening torque setting, as these usually hold the front wheel bearings at the correct settings and tightness. Regards John

Completely loosen the chain tensioner. When looking at the saw from the sprocket side(bar to the right) the chain WILL travel clockwise. Fit the chain on the bar.(ensure that the chain travels in collation with the sprocket at the end of the bar if equipped). When looking at the saw from the sprocket side(bar to the right) the chain WILL travel clockwise. With the chain still in the bar, fit the 5 or so links in the sprocket on the powerhead, engage the bar with the bar nuts, then lastly engage the chain in the tensioner. Place the sprocket cover and nuts. Tighten nuts then loosen about .5 turn. Adjust chain tensioner. Retighten nuts. See that tightening the nuts made your chain tighter, loosen nuts readjust chain, tighten nuts. With gloves on and the chain brake disengaged please ensure the chain travels around the bar. Put on your chaps and start cutting.

VERY EASY REPLACEMENT
REMOVE PHILIPS HEAD SCREWS THAT HOLDS THE PLASTIC WATER STRAINERS ON THE FOOTOF THE MOTOR,
NEXT LOOSEN THE HEX FITTINGS 7/16 OR 1/2 WRENCH SIZE THAT WERE COVERED BY THE STRAINERS
NEXT REMOVE THE 2 STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS THAT ATTACH THE FOOT TO THE LOWER UNIT.. BOLTS COME OUT FROM THE BOTTOM,, NEXT LOOSEN THE NUT ON THE FRONT OF THE FOOT FACING THE TRANSOM LEAVE A FEW THREADS TO HOLD THE FOOT SO IT DOSEN'T FALL. NEXT WIGGLE AND SHAKE THE FOOT
TO LOOSEN IT FROM THE LOWER UNIT . NEXT STEP REMOVE THE NUT WHILE HOLDING UP ON THE FOOT THEN SLOWLY REMOVE FOOT ASSEMBLY WITH DRIVE SHAFT.
NEXT REMOVE THE O RING FROM THE FITTING THEN REMOVE THE FITTING FROM THE SHIFT ROD THERE SHOULD BE A BIGGER O'RING ON THE SHIFT ROD NEXT TO THE WATER PUMP HOUSING . REMOVE BOLTS HOLDING WATER PUMP HOUSING ON THE FOOT ASSEMBLY LIFT OFF HOUSING LOOK FOR IMPELLER KEY TO FALL OUT . I RECOMMEND REPLACING IMPELLER AND HOUSING AS A KIT . INSTALL IN REVERSE ORDER .

IT'S A PIECE OF CAKE ...

I had the same problem and it cost me new gears in the end but I found a solution.
Put the nut in a lathe and drill out the thread with a 14mm drill, then machine a recess of 0.5 x 52mm to get some extra clearance and machine a 2 x 42mm pocket for the SDS-click nut to fit in.
I did this about 6 months ago and use it professionally and haven't needed the spanner yet, hardly ever needed the locking pin (mine has a brake) and it never came loose.
Note: chisel marks were result of frustration to need to remove the nut.

If you just need to keep the nut from coming loose, try LocTite Blue (assuming metal thread and nut). You should be able to buy it at the local hardware store.

I had the same problem with a slightly different Price Pfister model sink. My problem was primarily because the sink basin was thin and not "beefy" enough to support the faucet. The whole thing would flex because the metal was thin and the nut would come loose.

Using wood for reinforcement down there is a bad idea (it would get wet and rot). So, plastic was the way to go.

I bought an inexpensive piece of plexiglass/lexan at the local home improvement store. A cheap plastic cutting board would work well too.

I cut a rectangle that was a couple inches wider than the the faucet holes and that would fit underneath the sink basin where the holes for the faucet were.

I marked the holes and cut them with a hole saw (Go slow, the heat from the hole saw will melt the plexi!). Cutting slightly oversize makes everything fit easier.

I put my new "reinforcing washer" in place and tightened everything down. The nut snugs up nicely against the plastic and after four months: no more flex, no more nut loosening.

Just get the right tire range to fit the lug nut size. You
must replace your existing tire range. It's the only way.

This is because the ferrul ring has been compressed on the pipe and is very tightly secured under the nut. There is a very handy puller available which will pull the nut and ferrul off of copper piping. Without the special tool you are probably going to be faced with cutting it off and starting over again if your project affords that room. If the nut and ferrul appear good can you stay using the existing nut and ferrul? If you have no room to afford cutting and starting fresh,the nut and ferrul can be split or cut off which is somewaht of a chore. Ive got a little dremel cutting wheel that splits them off fairly well but have to bevery painstaking not to damage the pipe with the grinder wheel

You should have a pin spanner wrench that fits into the holes on the lock down nut. Hold the shaft with a open end wrench that fits the flats on the shaft.
If you dont have the spanner wrench, use a drift punch to tap the lock down nut to loosen.