The problem here is that the port holes in the burners are probably clogged. Clean ALL burners by taking a toothpick and unclogging the port holes. As for the position problem, if you have independant igniters, as some models do, you may need to replace the igniter. Remove knob and remove igniter,(white rectangular item with two wires) remove wires and replace.
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That unit is suppose to have electronic quartz igniters. Apparently there's a problem but it doesn't automatically mean the igniter needs to be replaced. If you see a spark from the igniter then it's fine. If you see a spark but no flame then the ignition process is out of synchronization. In other words, the gas hasn't concentrated near the spark enough to ignite. This may be a matter of low gas pressure or the extra length the gas needs to flow to reach the center burner is impeding ignition. Simple fix is turn the knob just enough to start the gas for 2 seconds then continue the turn to click the igniter. or simply use a match. You may also see if there are any adjustments on the gas manifold that will enhance bringing more gas to the center burner quicker. Some unit have one click & that's it, others click the igniter continuously until you release turning the knob. Good luck. you'll figure it out.
Electric gas igniters sometimes get stuck in one position causing a clicking sound. The clicking sound that you hear is the electric arc that is pulsing from the igniter conductor (wire) to ground (the gas burner). It receives power from the electrical outlet that the stove is plugged into.
Residue from food and sometimes cleaning products may be preventing the igniter from producing a spark (Arc) to the base of the burner. This is a common problem that occurs when the stove has been cleaned or food is allowed to build up. Make sure that the igniter and the burner base are clean and dry. This will help with proper operation. Oven cleaner and a small tooth brush may be used to accomplish this. Another problem with ignition may occur if you have too little (touching) or too much space between the igniter and the base of the burner; it will prevent the burner from igniting. You should only have a little more space than the thickness of a nickel between the burner base and the igniter. A good “blue” arc from the igniter to the burner base is optimal. If this doesn’t work, you may need to replace the electric igniter module. Good luck.
When you turn the burner knob on does the igniter click and turn off on it's own when the flame ignites? If it does then it has flame rectification. That means it can sense when the flame is on. Or does it click when the knob is in the light position and not stop until you move the burner knob? Then this is standard ignition. If it is standard ignition it sounds like it is the igniter switch built into the burner knob might be defective. Are you able to turn on any burner knob and when they are in the igniter position do all the electrodes spark or just the burner that you are turning on? If they all come on then they are wired in a series. If they are wired in a series do you get a spark at the electrode of the problem igniter? If so you can turn on one of the other burners to ignition position then while it is clicking turn on the problem burner to light it. If the cooktop uses flame rectification then there may be a problem with the switch built into the burner knob or the flame rectification sensor for that burner might be bad.
hi gud day,i think the sensor is we have problem is hard to repair in ur own,try to call the person have expireince for repair that unit, or ur igniter ligther have damage like small broken if u hear have click is ok but much better to check the igniter coz the broken igniter is not directly spark in the burner that why is not light.to check if remove the burner base cover then see if the igniter like a small niddle color white,turn the knob to click the igniter then see it wer the spark directly if u not see it means have a broken igniter.
mdpaul, sounds to me like 1 of the burner switches for the ignition is sticking. There is a small area where the switches turn to that shuts down the ignition. If the switch has failed from heat or is out of position, this can cause this issue. The switch is designed so when you turn the knob it closes the contact. The switch has to be locked into postion on this model. There is a push fit type retainer that locks this down. Pull the knobs off and turn with a pair of plyers to see if one is moving around. If so then with a deep socket, see if you can tighten the retainer by pushing down on it. Hope this helps.
I've had the same problem for 2 years. Today I removed the four burner tops, the 15/16 inch bolt that holds the burners in place, took everything apart (simple connections underneath), completely cleaned and dried eveything. I also cleaned the 4 knobs and making sure the 4 swiches slide up and down freely then dried everything with a hairdryer. Is now works fine but if the problem comes back, I'll simply unplug the cooktop and light it manually. P.S. I stripped one of the large 5/16 inch bolt that had become weak and brittle. - Try using water or some liquid to loosen the bolts as necessary. Good luck, CHEERS!