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If this is a new oven, look at the plate on the oven or in the user manuel. It should show the input amperage. Then check the amperage number on the fuse. If the fuse number is lower, that is the problem. To fix it will not be easy. The oven circut needs to be rewired with heavyer gage wire and a larger capicity fuse. This could get expensive. If this problem is on an existing oven, chances are there is a wiring or switch problem. If you are not familier with electricity here is my recommendation.STOP! and call an electrition. the chances are high that if you try to fix this on your own you may be electrocuted or you may burn your house down.
it sounds like it is drawing more power than it should.check the amperage rating on the data plate. it should be on back of range (about 55 amps),then check breaker amperage.if breaker is larger( 55 or bigger), you need to check wire gauge,It should be #8agw min. #6agw would be better #8agw has a max rating of 55amps.If thw wire is 20 years old or more it is rated at 50 amps thing anything else call me 831 235 7291
Look for a reset or fuse on the unit. If lightening hit, the surge could have wiped it out, as you already know. But hopefully GE put a fuse or breaker in the unit. You just have to find it, if it exists.
According to GE, a diagram is located in behind the control panel. If you can safely remove it (CIRCUIT BREAKER OFF) you may find the protection devices that GE has in place. You may also
find the fuse or breaker hiding in there too! Good luck.
NEVER ACCESS AN APPLIANCE WITHOUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER
OR UNPLUGGING THE UNIT. BE SAFE.
Most often the problem is the ignitor is not drawing enough amps to open the safety valve. Without knowing your model # , your valve could be rated 2.5-3.0 amps or 3.2-3.6 amps. If you can access one of the wires on the ignitor , you can read with an ammeter. Proper amperage will be printed on sticker on side of valve. Be sure to replace ignitor with one of proper amperage.
If you already changed your oven sensor, then your ERC or electronic range control is not reading your sensor correctly. You need to replace the ERC and its overlay. Not a cheap part. Also strongly recommend you buy a 2000 joule or higher surge protector to plug your range into, to prevent this problem from happening again. Good Luck, Appliance Specialists
a lot of iffy things could be happening here.. verify proper amperage draw through the ignitor.. i believe thats a 3.2-3.5 amp system but check the label thats on the gas valve, it will have the ratings listed on there for sure. make sure amperage draw is in the middle of the range as some gas valves are less tolerant of low amperage draw than others. it almost sounds like your amperage load may be on the low side, just enough to open the valve regularly but not open fully.. its on its way out if so.. the popping could be the gas coming into the oven slowly enough to NOT blow directly across the ignitor properly, (igniting it instantly if it were) and allowing it to pool in the enclosure some because of the low amperage draw through the ignitor, eventually firing with a bang..
yes the regulator vent could be plugged, but another thing is if you are on bottled gas/lp/propane for your source of fuel the regulator at the tank could be faulty also, causing the pulsing flame.. hope this helps, best of luck, ttfn
I am not a rocket scientist but this popular answer is so absurdly wrong. FIRST of all read the situation correctly it states "when I put it on bake both elements do not work" that means its ELECTRIC.Duh.
Most duel fuel ranges need 220 volts. and the outlets are different.
If you can't find a heavy standard real range cord it is because in your area they probably changed the code. Try ordering out of state from Home Depot E bay etc. Or change the outlet.
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