Switching a kenmore dryer door from right to left. I have taken off the door.. but it looks like I need to remove the plastic covering on the door to remove the hinge and install on the other side. There is a spot for the hinge on the other side of the door. how do i remove the plastic covering without breaking it ..to get the hinge out on one side and the false plate out of the other?

remove two phillips screws under lint screen trap door pop lid up... remove two corner screws usualy 5/16 nut driver lift upward and off to the right idler pulley bottom left pat attention to belt routing before taken off relace pulley change belt and repeat steps and reinstall

There are 4 doors that will cause the error. There are 2 on the right side of the printer. If you look closely, there is a white plastic switch on the right side of the doors. The toner door has a black plastic switch on the left side. Then there is the fuser access door on the other side of the printer that has a switch on the left side. Check the doors don't have any broken actuators that hit the switches. Check the switches by pushing on them manually.

Open the dryer door. There should be approximately three screws that hold the hinges on there on the right side (as you said yours currently is a left to right opening). Remove the screws that hold the door on. As you hold the dryer door removed from the dryer, turn it counter clockwise so that the handle is now on the opposite side. Lay it on the floor. Now, remove the screw hole covers from the opposite side of the dryer opening ( the left side) (these can be removed with a fingernail or a thin flat tipped screw driver to pry them out). This will expose the screw holes on the opposite (left)side of the dryer. Take the removed covers and place them in the original screw holes on the right side. Now simply reinstall the door hinges in the newly exposed screw holes on the left side. This will only work if your dryer is designed to have both types of openings. Good Luck!

Unplug the dryer.
Remove the lint filter.
Remove the 2 screws at the lint filter opening.
Use a putty knife between the top lid and the front panel to release the clips.
They are about 2 inches in from right and left sides where the top meets the front panel.
Lift the lid towards the rear of the dryer.
Look inside the top right and left corners of the front panel and remove the screws holding the front to the cabinet. Remove the door switch wires and set the door aside.
Place the new belt over the drum,ribbed side towards the drum.
Look under the drum for the belt tensioner. It is S shaped with a wheel on it.
Place the base of the tensioner in the slots below the motor pulley.
Feed the right side of the belt through the opening under the wheel with the smooth side of the belt touching the wheel.
Place this side of the belt over the motor pulley with the ribbed side touching the pulley.
Replace the front panel.
Hook up the door switch wires.
Replace the panel screws.
Reattach the top lid and lint filter screws. Replace the lint filter.
Plug in the dryer.

The door switch or actuator is broken. A common problem. On most Kenmore dryers this is replace by lifting the top. Since you haven't given the whole model number I will discuss raising the top on the most common model.

If your model has a lint filter at the top the slide show below should show you how to raise the top.

Kenmore Dryer

Disconnect power to unit. Lift the cover from the lint filter or if yours is the one with a filter and cover together, remove the whole filter. You will see 2 screws under the cover/filter, remove them. Now, you will need a putty knife or a thin shafted straight screw driver to remove the top panel. Push the putty knife or screw driver to "pop" the front top clips. The top panel will hinge back towards the wall and can be left there. Just inside the top of the front panel, you will see 2 screws, remove them. You will see the wires for the door switch on the right side. *** the top of the front panel toward you to gain access to the switch for replacement.

Reverse process for reassembly. Good Luck

Easy fix. I had the same problem on mine. You need access to the back. Remove back cover. Look at bottom left, you will see two blue wires going to a white plastic item next to one of the thermal sensors. This white plastic piece is a fuse, or fusible link if you like. I'm not sure what the rating is, but you can take the old one to a parts store. They can match it. Now, why did it blow? Well, if the dryer is old, it could be just worn out. But more than likely, one of your 230 volt lines has degraded due to a bad connection, thus drawing more amps, thus blowing the fuse. Look at where the power cord comes in at. Is there any discoloration or oxidation at the terminals? If so, replace the power cord at this time, and try to clean up the terminals as best you can. Also, at this time, you probably better take a look at the lint collector duct running along the left side down the back. It's probably so clogged with lint that your dryer does't dry as fast anymore, and air flow from the exhaust is restricted. Take the duct off and clean it out, or blow it out with compressed air. You should be up and running now. Have fun...

Unplug the dryer.
Remove 2 screws under the lint filter door.
Use a putty knife to pop the right and left front corners of the dryer top.
Fold the top to the back.
Inside front right and left corners of the cabinet, remove 2 screws.
:ean the door forward and rmove the door switch wires.
Lift up on the door and remove it.
Reverse above order to re-install it.

This is a start switch that would require opening the panel on the front to get to the switch behind the start button. But, i'm not sure this is the problem. If it still doesn't work after replacing the start switch then check the door switch.

This switch is located on the inside front at the door. Jump the two wires together going to this switch, put it back together, close the door, hit the start button. If it starts then it won't stop if you open the door but, you have found the problem.

IF you have the dryer pictured above,

You'll have to remove the console (screws behind covers on endcaps.) Then flip the console up and remove three screws holding the top panel down. Slide the top panel toward you and remove. Disconnect light and door switches (top front left.) Remove the toe panel (putty knife on two tabs top left and right.) Open the door and remove the lint screen. Close the door and remove the metal triangular box around the lint screen. Remove the screws at each corner of the front panel. Lift and rotate the front panel slightly clockwise to get the basket off the rollers. Reach under the basket to disconnect the belt from the motor. Lift the belt and the basket out of the machine. You can now reach the heater on the bottom left.

Before you do anything, unplug the machine, remove the lint screen, toe panel, and metal box and check the white plastic thermal fuse on top of the blower housing with an ohm meter. It should read less than one ohm.

Hi
just reversed the doors in 15-20 mins. It worked for me. You do need to be a competent DIYer to do this.
If in doubt, do now't. Get in an engineer

Disconnect from mains (obviously)
Remove top using 7mm nut driver/spanner
Remove 2 cross-head screws holding the door - Door will come away from dryer.
Remove 2 cross-head screws holding the white top and bottom blanking plates
pull out the switch blanking plate
Locate the PINK wires connecting the switch/latch mechanism inside the dryer at the top. This will be taped to a blue wire.
Unscrew the 2 smaller cross-head screws holding the latch/switch assembly whilst holding the pink wire to stop the mechanism dropping inside the dryer.
Pull up the latch mechanism and unravel the black tape holding it to the blue wire.
Drop the latch assembly down the lefthand side of the dryer and refit using the 2 small cross-head screws.
Retape to the blue wier and feed the PINK wires through the plastic retainers.
Fit the white blanking plates to the RIGHT handside of the door opening.
Swap the hinges and the switch latch on the door (don't lose the spring !!!, refitting the hinge blanking plates(ease these out with a small flathead screwdriver covered witha bit of insulating tape to avoid damage.)
Fit the door using the 2 cross-head screws you have left
Refit the top.

Connect to the mains and switch on to the sound of £80 you have just saved yourself !!

Electricity kills Be careful