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Sanyo DS19350 12 volt relay buzzes continually, relay has approx 350 ohms resistance but voltage is 53 volts do not have any info on step down resistor

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Hi,

This is a known issue with this particular brand/model. I am assuming that you are familiar with electronic components/circuitry and safety procedures, use of a DVM and a soldering iron. It would be to your added advantage access to a service manual or at the very least a schematic diagram with voltage readings. Should you be uncomfortable performing a DIY (do-it-yourself), perhaps your best bet would then be to seek the services of a qualified professional.

The relay is typ[e DH1U 12VDC (RL001). Result is mechanical buzzing sound, no picture and no sound. Often, fault is an open/leaky capacitor 470uF/25V (C022), test and replace.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How do I check the coil on my 8n to verify it is OK?


A digital multimeter is required for testing the resistance levels of the ignition coil. The terminals of the coil are going to be marked "negative" and "positive," and these are the two points where the resistance of primary winding can be measured. Step 1: Prepare the multimeter
To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one.
Step 2: Test the resistance
The normal, acceptable range for a standard 12-volt car is 1.5 to 1.7 Ohms. See if the reading is within this range.
Step 3: Test the secondary coil resistance
Set the meter to 20K Ohm setting, and attach the leads to the ignition coil's center terminal. The reading for secondary-coil resistance should be 11, because if it is lower, that's the reason why sparks are not appearing

Oct 19, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My voltage meter on dash not charging only sometimes!! It's charges!!!


This is what I would suggest before just changing the stator out. Hope this helps.Okay first step is to check voltage on battery.Most times it is a low voltage battery and easiest to fix. Checking the charging system to see if the voltage regulator or stator is bad read this...

Step 1. Normally, you'd first load test the battery,
Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.
You may get battery voltage on all three pins on the newer 3 phase regulators.
The no voltage is for older type regulators with diode indicating the diode is bad and the regulator needs replacing.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).


Generally the following is true:
Check your owners/service manual for the system amp output for your bike.
22 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms.
32 amp system produces about 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.
45 amp system produces about 19-26 vac per 1,000 rpm, stator resistance is about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms.

Oct 27, 2012 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

Po123 04 kai


Hello www_ropesmor,

This code P0123 is Throttle position sensor circuit high input.

There four basic reasons for this code.

1. An open or short to ground between the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the ECM (Engine control module).
2. A short to battery voltage between TPS and the ECM.
3. A short between the TPS wires.
4. A faulty TPS.

See below for connector diagrams.

First, with scan tool monitor TPS with throttle closed voltage should be
I f you don't have a scan tool, back probe terminal 1with a volt meter to ground and you will see the voltage as outlined above otherwise follow the steps below.


1.Check to see if there is about 5 volts at the TPS; with engine off key on disconnect the TPS back probe the harness side terminal 3 to ground with a volt meter if there is about 5 volts go to step 2 if about 5 volts if not repair the 5 volt circuit.

2. Probe the harness side terminal 2 to chassis ground with a volt meter, if voltage above .02 repair circuit 2 short to voltage. If voltage is .02 volts or below go to step 3.

3. Probe the harness side terminal 1 to ground with volt meter if below .5 volts go to step 4 if not repair short to battery between TSP harness and ECM connector

4 Turn the ignition off and disconnect the ECM connector . With an ohm meter measure the resistance between the ECM (terminal C18) and TPS ground circuit it should be below 1 ohm. Measure the resistance between the ECM (terminal C8) and TPS signal circuit it should be below 1 ohm. If not repair the open circuit.

After faulty circuit is found and repaired clear code and verify repair.

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netvan_161.png


I hope this helps.

Regards,

netvan

Aug 15, 2011 | 2004 Kia Optima

1 Answer

Battery wont stay charged while running put in new battery problem still not staying charged.


Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Most places like Auto Zone will do it for free. Even if it measures over 12.5 vdc it can still be bad under a load. Battery is typically rated at 19 amp hours and 270 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).

Jul 24, 2011 | 2001 Harley Davidson XL Sportster 883...

1 Answer

How to get cartridge out of original shower part to replace new danco part


Step 1. First things first, load test the battery. Most places like Auto Zone will do it for free. Even if it measures over 12.5 vdc it can still be bad under a load. Battery is typically rated at 19 amp hours and 270 Cold Cranking Amps (CCA).

Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals, the regulator should be putting out 14.3 - 14.7 vdc at 3600 rpm and 75 degrees F.


Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.

To do this with a meter which is more accurate: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator.


Step 3. On the other part of the disconnected regulator plug. Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms for the TC88 32 amp system.


Step 4. Then check for continuity between each pin on the plug and frame/engine ground. The meter needle should not move (infinite resistance)(digitals will show infinite resistance) if the meter needle does move (indicating continuity)(digitals will show some resistance), recheck very carefully. If the meter still shows continuity to ground the stator is shorted (bad).


Step 5. Set the meter to read A/C volts higher than 30 volts (the scale setting for voltage should always be higher than the highest voltage you expect or you may fry the meter). Start the bike, and measure from one pin to the other on the plug (DO NOT cross the multimeter probes! - touch them to each other). You should read roughly 16-20 vac per 1,000 rpm.


Step 6. If the battery was good under load test, if the stator is NOT shorted to ground, and the stator is putting out A/C voltage, then the regulator is bad (most likely even if if passed step 2).

Jul 24, 2011 | Danco Home

2 Answers

Our 2003 Durango RT will not reverse while in reverse. The car just Idles there. We hear the car switch gears, but nothing happens. What could be problem?


This is one of two things, if the truck goes into drive and moves then you have trany problems and may need to have it rebuilt, if there is no movement in reverse or drive then it could be the transfer case or trany.

Dec 11, 2010 | 2003 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

2003 Durango, Truck 5.9, Car is intermittently having trouble shifting from 1 - 2nd - reves to ~3 RPM, then lunges into the next gear. I've been doing my homework on the net, but can only find info on...


Possible Cause
The following items may be area of concern:
?¬Other transmission-related DTCs are set.
?¬Solenoid pack connector 5-volt supply circuit open.
?¬Sensor signal circuit has short to ground, short to voltage or open.
?¬Governor pressure sensor defective.
?¬Transmission fluid burnt or oil pan contains excessive debris.
?¬Governor pressure out of range.
?¬Transmission leaking internally.
?¬Defective PCM.
?¬Defective valve body.

Diagnostic Procedure
1.Using scan tool, read DTCs. If good trip counter for DTC P1756 is not displayed or displayed count is not zero, go to step 25. If good trip counter is displayed and displayed count is zero, go to next step.
2.Repair any other transmission-related DTCs before proceeding. If no other transmission-related DTCs exist, go to next step.
3.Check transmission fluid for proper level and for any debris. Fill or repair transmission as necessary. If fluid level and condition are okay, go to next step.
4.Start engine. Allow engine to reach normal operating temperature. Set parking brake, depress brake pedal and place gearshift lever in "D" position. Using scan tool, observe governor pressure sensor pressure. If pressure is greater than 3 psi (.2 kg/cm 2 ), go to next step. If pressure is 3 psi (.2 kg/cm 2 ) or less, go to step 20.
5.Turn ignition off. Install a pressure gauge at transmission governor pressure test port. Start engine. With gearshift lever in "D" position, observe gauge pressure. If pressure is 5 psi (.3 kg/cm 2 ) or more, go to step 23. If pressure is less than 5 psi (.3 kg/cm 2 ), go to next step.
6.Turn ignition off. Disconnect transmission solenoid assembly connector. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and 5-volt supply circuit at transmission solenoid harness connector terminal No. 2. If voltage is 4.5-5.5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is not 4.5-5.5 volts, go to step 19.
7.Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM harness connector C2 (White). Measure resistance of governor pressure sensor signal circuit between transmission solenoid harness connector terminal No. 4 and PCM harness connector C2 (White) terminal No. 29. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair governor pressure sensor signal circuit for open.
8.Disconnect PCM harness connector C1 (Black). Measure resistance of sensor ground circuit between transmission solenoid harness connector terminal No. 3 and PCM harness connector C1 (Black) terminal No. 4. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair sensor ground circuit for open.
9.Measure resistance of governor pressure sensor signal circuit between ground and transmission solenoid harness connector terminal No. 4. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair signal circuit for short to ground. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step.
10.Measure resistance between sensor signal circuit and sensor ground circuit at transmission solenoid harness connector terminals No. 3 and 4. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, repair governor pressure sensor circuit for short to sensor ground circuit. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step.
11.Turn ignition on. Measure voltage of governor pressure sensor signal circuit between ground and transmission solenoid assembly connector terminal No. 4. If voltage is one volt or less, go to next step. If voltage is more than one volt, repair sensor signal circuit for short to voltage.
12.Turn ignition off. Ensure transmission solenoid harness connector is disconnected. Remove transmission oil pan. Disconnect governor pressure/temperature sensor harness connector. Inspect connector and terminals for damage. Repair as necessary. Measure resistance of governor pressure sensor 5-volt supply circuit between governor pressure/temperature sensor harness connector terminal "A" and transmission solenoid harness connector terminal No. 2. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace transmission solenoid assembly (internal transmission harness).
13.Measure resistance of sensor ground circuit between governor pressure/temperature sensor harness connector terminal "D" and transmission solenoid harness connector terminal No. 3. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace transmission solenoid assembly (internal transmission harness).
14.Measure resistance of governor pressure sensor signal circuit between governor pressure/temperature sensor harness connector terminal "B" and transmission solenoid harness connector terminal No. 4. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, replace transmission solenoid assembly (internal transmission harness).
15.Measure resistance of governor pressure sensor signal circuit between ground and governor pressure/temperature sensor harness connector terminal "B". If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace transmission solenoid assembly (internal transmission harness). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step.
16.Measure resistance between governor pressure sensor signal circuit and sensor ground circuit at governor pressure/temperature sensor harness connector terminals "B" and "D". If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace transmission solenoid assembly (internal transmission harness). If resistance is 5 ohms or more, go to next step.
17.Reconnect transmission solenoid assembly harness connector. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage of governor pressure sensor signal circuit between ground and governor pressure/temperature sensor harness connector terminal "B". If voltage is more than one volt, replace transmission solenoid assembly (internal transmission harness). If voltage is one volt or less, go to next step.
18.Turn ignition off. Using DVOM, backprobe governor pressure sensor signal circuit at PCM harness connector C2 (White) terminal No. 29. Start and idle engine. Place gearshift lever in "N" position. Using scan tool, observe governor pressure sensor voltage. Compare scan tool value with DVOM voltage. If voltages match, replace governor pressure/temperature sensor. If voltages do not match, replace PCM.
19.Turn ignition off. Ensure transmission solenoid harness connector is disconnected. Disconnect PCM harness connector C2 (White). Measure resistance of 5-volt supply circuit between transmission solenoid harness connector terminal No. 2 and PCM harness connector C2 (White) terminal No. 31. If resistance is less than 5 ohms, replace PCM. If resistance is 5 ohms or more, repair 5-volt supply circuit for open.

NOTE: Removing transmission control relay in the following step may set other DTCs. Disregard these DTCs.

Nov 28, 2010 | 2003 Dodge Durango

1 Answer

The 130 volts relay is not clicking,the 15 volts line is reading 12,93 volts and the base of q805 the relay driver is reading .54 volts and at the colector is reading 12.93 volts. ...


Hello
If the all said voltages are there and still the relay doesn't work check the transistor drive it and the relay itsef. Relays will have the voltage and its coil resistance marked on it. Check it coil resistance and be sure it comes to the marked Ohms. If has the proper Ohm resistance, check the transitor drives the relay for open [usually collector to emitter]. If the transistor used there is a PNP type, coltage at its base should be low, and if its an NPN type the voltage should be high inorder to drive the relay.
Check whether the base voltage of the said transistr varies, that is going up and down, during the power on and off switch on the remote control If there is no volgage change, the voltage remains constant all the time, check the power on off voltage chage at the respective pin in the system control Ic. If there is voltage changes and there is no voltage changes in the transitor said. means there are some trouble between the path, and check whether other drive transistors are used in between them. If so check it too. Ok.

Oct 27, 2010 | Panasonic CT-32HX40 32" TV

3 Answers

I have replaced my fuel pump and cannot get it to run. I measured the voltage at the main connector and I have 7 volts. I have only 3 volts at the pump. Do I need a new sending unit? What should the...


Disconnect your battery. Switch your meter to ohms. Don't let the battery terminals touch the metal body. Put the negitive meter lead on the body and the positive meter lead on the one that is only 3 volts at pump. There should be no continuity. If there is, then there might be a short.
Next try putting one meter lead on the 7 volt main connector and the other on the 3 volt supply side. There should be little resistance. If resistance is high then you might have a break in the ciuciut.

I hope this helps.

Jul 11, 2009 | 1995 Mazda 626

1 Answer

2000 Ford Ranger


TEST B: BATTERY VOLTAGE OUT OF RANGE - DTC B1676
1. Check if vehicle has been jump started within past 2 weeks. If vehicle has been jump started, ABS is
okay. If vehicle has not been jump started, go to next step.
2. Using DVOM, measure voltage between positive and negative battery terminals. If voltage is 9-19 volts,
go to next step. If voltage is not 9-19 volts, diagnose charging system. See appropriate GENERATORS
article in STARTING & CHARGING SYSTEMS.
3. Turn ignition off. Disconnect 25-pin ABS control module. Install EEC-IV 60-pin Breakout Box (014-
00322). Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between breakout box terminal No. 20 and ground. If voltage
is more than 10 volts, go to next step. If voltage is less than 10 volts, repair Light Blue/Pink wire between
ABS control module and instrument panel fuse panel.
4. Turn ignition off. Measure voltage between breakout box terminal No. 25 and ground. If voltage is
greater than 10 volts, go to next step. If voltage is less than 10 volts, repair Red wire between ABS
control module and power distribution box/engine compartment fuse box.
5. Measure voltage between breakout box terminal No. 9 and ground. If voltage is greater than 10 volts, go
to next step. If voltage is less than 10 volts, repair Yellow/Light Green wire between ABS control module
and power distribution box/engine compartment fuse box.
6. Measure resistance between breakout box terminal No. 8 and ground. Also, measure resistance between
breakout box terminal No. 24 and ground. If both resistance measurements are less than 5 ohms, replace
ABS control module and repeat self-test. If either resistance measurement is greater than 5 ohms, repair
suspect Black wire between ABS control module and ground distribution.
NOTE: DTC B1676 will set if vehicle has been jump started.
2000 Ford Ranger
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Jun 11, 2008 | 2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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