One of the ignitor knobs has become disconnected on the interior, behind the front panel. It seems that the knobs, except for the oven control, are designed to be permanently attached to the stem. This prevents removal of the front panel. Which of course prevents repair of the mechanism behind the panel.
What is the process for removal of this front panel. I have removed the 4 star screws but of course, without being able to remove the knobs, this is not enough.
I found the solution at Fixitnow.com. Apparently the knobs are VERY difficult to remove and must be pried off using two screw drivers on either side of the knob and working back and forth. I sprayed them with WD40 before replacing them.
After getting past this poor design issue, the remainder of the repair was very simple, as I expected it would be.
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Might be the PC board, or it might just be the switch behind the oven knob - try disconnecting the wire leading to that switch and see if the clicking stops. If it does, the switch is bad. If not, suspect the electronics.
When the oven control knob is in the off position(vertical), turn it counter-clockwise to the next position. This is the oven pilot light. Push the knob down, and while holding down, push the red piezo ignitor button located behind the bottom plate under the oven door. This little door swings open top down, like the oven door. Push the ignitor repeatedly, while holding the knob down. If it doesn't light, or you smell gas, let it dissipate before trying again.
Fuses can be located behind the microwave door or behind a panel either
on the interior wall or an exterior panel. Often the fuse will be behind
a panel located under the louver vents on top of the microwave
1) the switch that supplies power to the spark module when the burner is turned on is bad...its located on the shaft of the burner valve thier is one switch for each knob so counting the oven and the burners their is 5 (the oven is different from the surface burners) to check those switches what needs to be done is remove the knobs then the face panel so ya can get to the knobs.
No is where is gets a bit complcated if ya dont follow all procedures....the knob must turned on to check so gas will be flowing and ya must light the gas using a match or raw gas will eneter the kitchen...or if possible temporarly turn off gas supply to the unit.also POWER MUST BE DISCONNECTED and then with power off and the burner lit manually once turned on ya would need to check each switch to have continuity,if any of the switches does not have continuity when measured with a ohm meter that switch will be bad
2) the igniter is cracked so power is coming from spark module yet since its cracked power is jumping out before it gets the where it lights the burners.
The problem beleive it or not is that the bake ignitor is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake ignitor(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of ignitor make sure only one wire,either one and not both. if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake ignitor. I know it seems improbable that if the ignotor comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the ignitor comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak ignitor is the cause 100% of the time
switch part of the stat mounts behind the front panel in the position of the temperature control knob. there is a capilliary tube coming out of the stat and the bulb at the end of this mounts in the oven.
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS WHEN YOU TURN ON THE OVEN, BUT DON'T GET ANY FLAME, IT IS MOST LIKELY THE IGNITOR. THE COST OF IT IS AROUND 50-75 DOLLARS.
TO REPLACE ONE, YOU MUST GAIN ACCESS TO THE OVEN
BAKE BURNER BY LIFTING OUT THE BOTTOM PAN OF THE OVEN. THEN REMOVE TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE IGNITOR TO THE BURNER. FOLLOW THE WIRES DOWN TO THE CONNECTOR PLUG. SELF-CLEAN MODELS WILL BE BEHIND A PANEL BEHIND THE STORAGE DRAWER. NON SELF-CLEAN MODELS WILL BE BEHIND AN ACCESS PANEL DOWN IN THE BROILER AREA. DISCONNECT THE PLUG AND REPLACE THE IGNITOR IN REVERSE ORDER.
PART NUMBER 12400035 MAYTAG.