One of the ignitor knobs has become disconnected on the interior, behind the front panel. It seems that the knobs, except for the oven control, are designed to be permanently attached to the stem. This prevents removal of the front panel. Which of course prevents repair of the mechanism behind the panel.
What is the process for removal of this front panel. I have removed the 4 star screws but of course, without being able to remove the knobs, this is not enough.
I found the solution at Fixitnow.com. Apparently the knobs are VERY difficult to remove and must be pried off using two screw drivers on either side of the knob and working back and forth. I sprayed them with WD40 before replacing them.
After getting past this poor design issue, the remainder of the repair was very simple, as I expected it would be.
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There is a service flash, W10622771, for gas ranges of your model number--the bake burner ignitor is not lighting the gas--it's a direct spark ignition type. The ignitor is sparking but no ignition. Possible causes are (1) Wiring harness might be pinched between the bake/broil ignitors and the DSI board. (2) DSI mounting bracket may be contacting a solder joint on the back of the board. (3) Positioning of the ignitor and gas burner ignitor ports may be out of adjustment. (4) Ignitor electrode deterioration
Facing the range, the DSI board is behind the control panel on the left side, mounted in the bracket.You'll have to remove the back cover to expose the boards. BE SURE TO UNPLUG THE RANGE BEFORE DOING THIS. I can provide diagnostic mode if you want to proceed further.
When the oven control knob is in the off position(vertical), turn it counter-clockwise to the next position. This is the oven pilot light. Push the knob down, and while holding down, push the red piezo ignitor button located behind the bottom plate under the oven door. This little door swings open top down, like the oven door. Push the ignitor repeatedly, while holding the knob down. If it doesn't light, or you smell gas, let it dissipate before trying again.
1) the switch that supplies power to the spark module when the burner is turned on is bad...its located on the shaft of the burner valve thier is one switch for each knob so counting the oven and the burners their is 5 (the oven is different from the surface burners) to check those switches what needs to be done is remove the knobs then the face panel so ya can get to the knobs.
No is where is gets a bit complcated if ya dont follow all procedures....the knob must turned on to check so gas will be flowing and ya must light the gas using a match or raw gas will eneter the kitchen...or if possible temporarly turn off gas supply to the unit.also POWER MUST BE DISCONNECTED and then with power off and the burner lit manually once turned on ya would need to check each switch to have continuity,if any of the switches does not have continuity when measured with a ohm meter that switch will be bad
2) the igniter is cracked so power is coming from spark module yet since its cracked power is jumping out before it gets the where it lights the burners.
The problem beleive it or not is that the bake ignitor is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake ignitor(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of ignitor make sure only one wire,either one and not both. if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake ignitor. I know it seems improbable that if the ignotor comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the ignitor comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak ignitor is the cause 100% of the time
The problem beleive it or not is that the bake ignitor is weak ,and it is not drawing the proper amprage to open the gas valve.If you have a amp meter access the wires to the bake ignitor(usually behind the storage drawer) and check for 3.3-3.6 amps when oven is set to bake by clamping the meter around ONE wire wire of ignitor make sure only one wire,either one and not both. if amp draw less than 3.3-3.6 amps replace bake ignitor. I know it seems improbable that if the ignotor comes on that it could be the problem.Professional appliance technicians who would charge a average of $250.00 to repair your oven,have found when the ignitor comes on yet the oven won't heat that a weak ignitor is the cause 100% of the time I hope this helps
Hello, There is no pilot..It uses ignitors to light. number 19 in this picture is the oven ignitor http://lookup.bellparts.com/diagramenlarge/frigidaire/47877/00000358
If when you turn on the oven it doesnt glow bright orange chances are it failed and needs to be replaced. The top is electronic ignition. If this helps please rate me..Thanks
Hi, You will need to change the ignitor. Even tho it is glowing, it is going bad and isn't strong enough to open the gas valve. It is very common problem. Remove the floor panel in the oven and you will be able to see the ignitor. Make sure the oven is unplugged while changing the ignitor. I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
If its a gas stove/oven and everything else is ok, then its the ignitor at the bottom of your oven. first Open your oven door alittle til its stops the first time then pull it up and out. that gives you freedom to work. then pull out the racks. Now you have two screws that hold down the cover of where the ignitor is, unscrew those and pull off the cover, you'll see the ignitor. Pull out the drawer at the bottom and you'll see where its connected, disconnect it and take it to an appliance parts store where you can order one. Take the new one and splice the original wires onto to the new ignitor( make sure to use the ceramic wire nuts) and reconnect it and there you have it. It'll take you alittle time so dont rush. I change them all the time, it takes me like 10-15 min. You dont have to turn off the breaker, just DONT turn the oven knob ON
IF THE IGNITOR GLOWS WHEN YOU TURN ON THE OVEN, BUT DON'T GET ANY FLAME, IT IS MOST LIKELY THE IGNITOR. THE COST OF IT IS AROUND 50-75 DOLLARS.
TO REPLACE ONE, YOU MUST GAIN ACCESS TO THE OVEN
BAKE BURNER BY LIFTING OUT THE BOTTOM PAN OF THE OVEN. THEN REMOVE TWO SCREWS THAT HOLD THE IGNITOR TO THE BURNER. FOLLOW THE WIRES DOWN TO THE CONNECTOR PLUG. SELF-CLEAN MODELS WILL BE BEHIND A PANEL BEHIND THE STORAGE DRAWER. NON SELF-CLEAN MODELS WILL BE BEHIND AN ACCESS PANEL DOWN IN THE BROILER AREA. DISCONNECT THE PLUG AND REPLACE THE IGNITOR IN REVERSE ORDER.
PART NUMBER 12400035 MAYTAG.
Yes, I see this but it isn't real common. The control board (eoc) will have to be replaced. Most of them are costly. If you give me the complete model # from the sticker on the oven (may be behind bottom drawer) I can check into this better for you and get you a price.