Question about Jl Audio 500/1 Car Audio Amplifier

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Running Hot I am running a JL Audio model 500/5 amp. I just noticed today after a short drive that the amp was very hot to the touch. This was after running the amp at low listening levels too. The amp is mounted in an amp box with the top open to show the amp. Is this normal? Is there anything to worry about?

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Running the amplifier at a low level shouldn't cause it to get hot quickly.

Disconnect all speakers and signal cables from the amp and power it up. Do this when the heatsink (black part at the back of the amp) is cool. Power it up and monitor the temperature of the sink. If it gets hot in one relatively small area, that will tell you that there is likely a problem with one channel. If it never gets hot, the problem may be with the input signal or the speaker wiring.

Let me know what you find.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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It sounds like heat. If your running it at 2 ohms or 1 ohm it's going to run hot. You location is critical. If it's under a seat it may be above you catalytic converter and it will be too hot. In the past I have run a small fan that was used in boats that's compact and runs at 12 volts and in one case I used a fan similar to a computer hard drive fan that I found at radio shack that was 12 volts. Also your alternator will become taxed as more heat is developed during driving. Heat lowers the out put amperage of any alternator and will start to cause the amp to cut out. I also use at least a 10 gauge or larger power supply wire for the amp that's fused no more than 8 inches from the battery. The ground should be just as large and the ground point clean. I always use dialectric greas on all connectins to prevent corrsion.

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1 Answer

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If the amp is a JL 500/1v2, it has a sensing switch which enables it to sense voltage, instead of running a remote wire. If this switch is set to on, and you have a remote turn on wire running to the amp........this can happen. I own one of these, and made that mistake myself.

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Yes it possible that the inputs have been damaged on the circuit board of the amp. If the amp has hi level inputs you could try running a speaker wire input to it and see if it works. You might try another pair of rca cables to.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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Sounds like you need to invest in a capacitor. Those are used when subs receive a bass spike. You just a need a 1 Farat Capacitor (1,000 watts) ran between the head unit and the amplfiier to fix your issue. Also, try reducing the volume gain to half gain and low pass frequency to half gain; this will increase your clarity and make your amp less hot. This may fix it without a capacitor. Also find out what amprage your alternator is. Your alternator may not be designed to run the amplifier. Most alternators are 200 amps now if they are gold plated.

Hope this helps

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=20378

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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You can send it to JL Audio and they will fix the output stage you toasted and will also perform any mods or upgrades to bring it up to spec. This will set you back $ 180.00 plus shipping cost to send it to JL. I know it's expensive but you damn near get a whole new amp to rock your world. mark..

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1 Answer

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Just had a look at both amp and sub on the JL Audio website. The amp runs from 1.5-4ohms. 4ohms at 14.5V. The sub is running dual 4 ohms coils. That's what the D-4 means. So should be an easy set up. The amp has two mono outputs, so one for each coil. It looks like the perfect wattage to run the sub real nice.
Web page for amp: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=439
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You will need to have the amp bench tested at full load to see if there is a pending problem. It will need to see with speaker loading resistors, how much current the amp is drawing and at different frequencies. if the amp checks out with the proper current, at the rated output, have the speaker checked out. Good Luck

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