Question about Behringer Pmp3000 16 Channel Audio Mixer

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10w 22rj wire wound resistor - Behringer Pmp3000 16 Channel Audio Mixer

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When thosse resistors (precharrging of main input filters) burn up there is major damage. The IGBT's are usually gone... replace with APT28GA60BD15... the switching regulator IR2153 is gone... one or more of the 2SA1020-Y and the 2SC2655-Y gate drivers are gone. One or both of the DL4148 speedup diodes for the IGBT gate drives will be gone. The Wirewound ceramic resistors either 10 or 22 ohm 10 watt radials... Use:
This is 20 ohms, however Behringer uses from 10 to 22 ohms in these units... 20 works fine as does 10 ohms. If you have toruble getting schematic let me know.

Posted on Aug 22, 2011

  • stuart urquhart Nov 15, 2011

    Hi, have you any rough idea what it would cost to repair a problem like that? I think i have this same problem on the europower pmp5000. it also took one of my speakers out, could it be the same fault? Thanks

  • Fred Yearian Nov 16, 2011

    Sometimes only the power amp (one side goes) and power supply survives. If leds are on supply is OK... if all dark then supply is gone as well. There is a Triac protection circuit that SHOULD protect your speakers... doesn't always work. A regular shop will replace the HCA2400 power amp module and might replace the power module as well. The HCA2400 are $155 from don't know what the power supply cost however. There is around $45 of parts that fry with the failure if both are gone and a lot of labor, especially to restore the HCA2400 which often arcs between layers of the multilayer circuit board. Most shops won't attempt a repair of the HCA2400... I have done a few for my own use... it is PAINFUL work believe me. You can figure about 4 hours shop labor minimum.



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DO NOT REPLACE THE FUSE !!! You will do more damage.

I just repaired one of these. A small ceramic surface mounted cap very near where the +/- 85 volt connectors plug onto the board blew up.

This left a sputtered mess on the insulating material at the right rear corner of the power supply.

The net parts list of parts I had to replace:

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2. One 1N4148 surface mount diode that is for gate drive speedup. D24 and D25. (don't remember which one was shorted)

3. All four driver transistors for the gate of the IGBT's. @ each 2SA1020 (PNP) and 2SC2655 (NPN). These are tall TO92-like transistors and I believe that at least one of these I had to get from Mouser.

4. Transistor T9, suface mount BC856B (PNP)

5. Replaced all four surface mount caps, one had exploded.
C50, C51,C54,C56. Replace with 0.01mfd/200 Volt 1206 style surface mount caps Digikey 478-1511-6

6.Replaced ceramic wire wound 10 Watt stand up resistors that were blown open. Replaced with 20 ohm design change. These slowly charge the main input filter caps and when supply is stable, a relay shorts them out. If you have replaced the fuse, you LIKELY blew them out. Original value was 10 ohms on some units. This was a Mouser part. 280-PRM10-20-RC

7. The 2153 switching reg chip IC1. This chip shorts. It is made by International Rectifier and I believe the full number is something like IRF2153. I had these in stock and not sure of which source I had procured them from... It was from one or the other.

Lots of destruction and one really needs a desoldering station to work this. Removal of the blown IGBT's is especially tough. All solder must be removed from the transistor leads AND the thermistor on one of the heat sinks. Once you have verified the leads are loose, one has to rock the heat sinks to get the tabs free. The tabs are NOT soldered! Be careful when restoring to get the thermistor leads started in their holes.

Note: ALL these repair parts were procured from and Neither of these places had all, I had to order from both. Mouser had the ceramic resistors.

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There is a small 15 volt switching supply that comes on first that runs the relay to short out the inrush limiting resistors. With the 2153 shorted as usual, this auxilary supply can't reach voltage enough to turn on the relay. The power for this is supplied through the ceramic resistors.

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- dirty contacts or a broken wire on the footswitch

- a broken wire from the distortion output to the output plug

- a broken wire elsewhere in the unit (e.g. potentiometers or rotary controllers)

- a bad input / output level or other potentiometer or rotary controller

- a burnt out component (a bit unlikely, but possible, and it could be anything)

- a bad connector contact inside the unit

- a bad pin solder contact on ANY of the components inside the unit (wires, connectors, switches, jack plugs, resistors,variable resistors, trimmers, diodes, capacitors, transistors, ICs, etc.)

Broken wires / badly soldered pins need to be resoldered, but if there is damage to any of the components, they wil probably need to be replaced.

I hope you can find out what it is.


3rq8 (Triarcuate)

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