Question about Hotpoint Aquarius WF000 Front Load Washer

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Putting a new belt on

Strecting the new belt on to the cogs

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Peace Friend,
ngafm At your service!

You should not have to stretch the belt to get it on.
You should be able to release the tension and slip it on! if you can not and have to stretch it on, you are missing some step.
And may damage the belt or machine!
My advice do not force it!
Better call service or you may be repairing it again or the belt again soon!
I like my machines to run fine and last long! proper is better!
I hate to spend good money twice. Don't you?

Bless You,
ngafm

Please give me a good rating for my fine money saving advise. before you sign off..

Thank You

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

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I have a beko washing machine that needs the belt replacing. We cannot get it back on. Any suggestions

Posted on Oct 10, 2008

  • speaky Oct 10, 2008

    Have got the belt on but it keeps coming off!!!!!!!!

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Help put on the belt

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

How to replace belt on washing machine


hi take the back and lid off the washer usually on the top part of washer you should see the motor there should be 3 bolts 2 keeping it to the drum and another for ajustments losen this one untill the motor goes limp put new belt around the big wheel on the drum and on the small cog on the motor get a log heavy screw driver put it on the motor as a lever and take up the slack dont tighten the belt to much as it will end up snaped again just so you can poke the belt and it moves in and out slightley then tighten up the nut on the motor and thats it hope this helps ivan

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My drum does not turn,the belt is still attached but has slipped off the round cog and has got stuck.I have tried pulling the belt out and trying to place it back on to the cog but the belt is to tight.I...


The belt is designed to be tight as it is self tensioning,the best way to do it is to remove both the top cover and the rear panel.
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Agitator problem on ALW780QAW Amana


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1 Answer

HOOVER 510 PREMIER WASHING MACHINE ABOVE THE BELT SHAFT THERE IS A PLASTIC COG WHEN THE WASHING MACHINE IS ON WASH CYCLE IT SPINS FINE ONE WAY THEN ON THE REVERSE SPIN THER IS THIS ORANGE LEVER THAT MAKES...


I imagine you've bought a new machine by now? The plastic gearcog is the clutch housing. The arm that clicks is part of the brake lever. On these models, the brake lever is supposed to hold the clutch in place during the wash cycle so that it slips in both directions to get a forward and reverse wash. On spin, the lever moves away releasing the clutch and gearbox brake and allowing the bowl and agitator to spin together. The brake lever wears and allows the gearbox to slip during the wash cycle. When this happens, the clutch housing will "ratchet" past the brake lever tongue. this causes the "clicking" noise in 1 direction.

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1 Answer

F1245w


I have always fitted the the motor cog first then start by placing belt on half of the drum cog as much as you can, then by hand turn the drum and the belt should slip on.
lee

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1 Answer

AEG LAVAMAT 74620 Update Gears on the fill tray have jumped. The primary and idler have to be installed correctly and are fool proof but the third, half gear, needs setting. Can you please supply pic or...


Found this on another site (fixed4free.com) posted by Dave in Jan 2009:

This is one of those things where a picture would be worth a thousand words, but as I can't put pictures on this site, the words will have to do!
- Turn the orange cog anti-clockwise as far as it will go, (putting the nozzle to direct the water to the conditioner drawer)
- Look closely at the orange cog and you'll see that the last-but-one tooth at each end of the row is shorter than the rest. Looking from above and standing at the front of the machine, I call the rightmost tooth on this cog number 1, the short tooth number 2 etc. (my cog has 17 teeth)
- Position the white cog so that (looking from above) the leftmost tooth on the top (incomplete) row of this cog is between teeth 2 and 3 of the orange cog. This should be such that if the white cog rotates anti-clockwise it will turn the orange cog.
Now the difficult bit:
- The shaft that the yellow cog fits on has four vertical 'webs' running down it. Look closely and you'll see that one of these is bigger than the other three. As you would expect, if you look carefully at the centre of the yellow cog it has three small slots and one bigger one spaced around the hole.
- This shaft can be VERY CAREFULLY rotated if you pull it gently upwards against it's spring and wiggle it while twisting it. NEVER force it, the cogs underneath are VERY fragile. If it won't turn, just let go, and try again.
- Look again at the white cog, and you'll see that two of the teeth on the lower (complete) set of teeth have no slot between them, they make a tooth that is 'double width'.
- Look at the yellow cog and you'll see that it has a 'double width' slot on it's lower row.
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COMPLICATED BIT OF EXPLANATION!!
The yellow cog only ever turns clockwise and the white cog is a clever bit of engineering allowing AEG to move the nozzle (orange cog) backwards and forwards across the five positions.
The yellow cog turns the orange cog anti-clockwise until it runs out of teeth, then the white cog turns the orange cog the other way.
After a full rotation of the yellow cog, the orange one has moved clockwise to the stain-treatment position and the by-pass beyond, then anti-clockwise back to the conditioner position.



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2 Answers

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