Question about GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

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GE washer WBVH6240; Won't tumble or spin with any kind of load but works fine empty

I have a GE WBVH6240 Front Load washer that won't tumble (i.e. wash) or spin with any kind of load in it but it works just fine when it is empty. The filter has been cleaned out...nothing was in it. I've run the test list and came up with the following error codes: 4B, 42, 61, and 70. I performed the test list functional checks and all worked fine with an empty washer but when anything, even a single towel, is put in the washer it will start to tumble and then act as if the load is too heavy for the motor to move it, yet the drum turns freely by hand. All the codes were cleared out and only the 42 repeated after letting the washer attempt to make it through an entire was cycle. The troubleshooting chart in the washer states this is a motor problem and to replace the motor. I put in a new motor and nothing changed, same exact scenerio.

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  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    It is not the belt, tensioner, or transmission as SFroese suggests. The belt is in good condition, it is not slipping on the motor's pully, in fact as I watch the pulley as it attempts to move the drum the motor itself stutters back and forth but there is NO slippage. This model washer does not have a transmission, it is a direct drive unit from the motor to the drum.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    How can the logic board determine load ratio placed on the motor. Why not the inverter? How can I be sure of either one before paying out BIG BUCKS for these parts. There seems to be a lot of the same problem posted on this website without this much detail and no real solutions are being offered. Almost ever one says to clean out the filter.

    Is there any way to bench check these components or the motor?

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    The drum moves smoothly by hand and there is no signs of any bearing wear. I have a little experience with mechanical devices...25 years of aircraft maintenance and certified mechanical crash investigator. I can handle changing any part on the machine. I just don't want to invest in diagnosis by swaping expensive parts that can't be returned.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    As I've already re-posted, there is NO bearing or belt problem. The belt is in good shape and it is not slipping on the pully whether empty or loaded.

    Back to the logic board, how does it receive any feedback that there is any weight difference between loaded and empty? I don't see anything on the schematic indicating the logic board would operate any differently with or without a load, so why would it cause the motor to "studder" with only a slight increase in pressure from adding a single item inside the drum?

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Your laundry list of things that can go wrong with a Top-Loading washing machine is of no help in addressing the detailed issues I'm having with my Front-Loading machine.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    There is no un-even load sensor detailed on the schematic for this machine nor can I find anything remotely related to one on the machine itself. There probably should be one given the number of excessive vibration problems posted about this line of GE washers on this website.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    You say this is a well known tranmission problem that is in the midst of a class action law suit, I don't doubt the well known part or the law suit part but this machine has no transmission, it is direct drive from the motor with a belt around the drum. So, what tranmission issue is a GE technician going to resolve?

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Its not stipping. I've marked the belt and the pully and watched for slippage...there is NONE.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    I've read your link to the GE cover-up. It applies to machines made between 1995-1997. My machine was made in Nov of 2005. As for the ability to agitate and spin at different speeds goes...this unit uses a 3 phase motor controled by an inverter which indeed can and does rotate the drum backwards and forwards at various speeds with NO Transmission.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Sounds reasonable...but I've already replaced the motor with a brand new one and it made absolutely no difference. Same exact problem immediately out of the box. Any suggestions on how to bench check this 3 phase motor?

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    If that's your solution...send me my refund!

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Thanks for a little more specific attempt. I jumbered the door lock sensor with no luck. Also ohmed out the switch and it check good. As for your question of how many wires go to the motor...8; 5 to the plug a red, white, and blue all about 14 ga and 2 yellows both about 18 ga. Then there is a black 14 ga to the motor housing. These 6 all go to the 3-phase inverter. Then there are 2, red 18 ga connected to the end of the motor to what appears to be a speed sensing transducer that go directly to the main circuit board.

    To address you 2 speed motor, this is a 3-phase motor that has test parameters, which when not loaded it actually indicates all of these speeds are achieved, of 100, 350, 400, and 1000 rpm.

    Any suggestions of bench checking any of the circuitry for bad solder joints, espicially ones that would be affected by having a load in the drum?

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    If by swithc, you mean the door lock switch, already done. Part is in good working order...clean, no burnt contacts, and operates smoothly.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Everyone of your suggestions has been thouroughly checked. The motor has been replaced with a brand new one already and didn 't make it 10 seconds before showing the same problem. Machine fills, and drains just fine, pump and drain, both house and machine, function properly.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    I agree that it is odd to find a 3-phase motor in a home washer, but GE's done it. None of the schematics you posted are remotely close to representing this washer, the complete model number is WBVH6240FWW. Likewise, none of the motors you posted are correct. Using your same source for parts, i.e. pcappliancerepair.com this link will take you to adn IPB for my washer; http://pcappliancerepair.com/model-displ... , on this IPB the motor is item number 333 and their part number is WH20X10028. Reading directly off of the motor itself provides the following information:
    - 3 PH-Indcution Motor for Auto Washer Only
    - Use only with electronic control AA23580
    - DO NOT connect to A.C. line
    - Model J52PWAAB0104
    - P/N WWAA0305010000
    - Volts: Variable
    - Hz: Variable
    - RPM: Variable
    - Amps: 2.5
    - Ins. Class F

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    This is NOT a belt issue...it is in good shape and NOT slipping.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    I appreciate the level of detail you went to, to supply pictures, unfortunately they do not resemble any of the components on this machine.

    As for the belt and bearing...even with a full load of wet laundry in the drum the drum rotates smoothly, easily, and quietly by hand. When the motor starts to studder I can still help it out by hand with smoot operation and observe that the belt is not slipping and indicating the bearing is not worn out.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Thanks for continuing to look for a solution. I don?t see any component that resembles a water sensor like you describe, either on the unit or in the schematic. There is a water pressure switch that controls the water level but by passing that would cause the washer to over-fill, and I?ve checked it as well and it works properly.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Thanks for keeping after it. Yes I replaced the entire motor kit. Checked all of the wiring from MCU thru inverter to motor. The only test I have for the MCU is the built-in-test, which indicates its fine. I have not figured out a way to do a bench check at home of a 3-phase D.C. motor...any suggestions on that would be appreciated.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Once I find a solution?

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Drain Filter is clean and empty, pump is clean and working fine. Belt is in good condition and NOT slipping, neither is the pully on the motor itself. Door gasket is not rubbing on the drum anywhere.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    I just may end up doing that, but I'm not quite there yet.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    Could be the only way I'm going to find the solution.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    .

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    I guess I'm going to have to do that.

  • grhame Sep 08, 2008

    I'll checkout the bearing further.

  • grhame Sep 09, 2008

    There is no load sensor listed on any of the parts breakdowns for this model. Can you elaborate on where it is located and how to check it.

  • grhame Sep 09, 2008

    I only have a hard copy of the machine's schematic, no website to post for you to go to.

  • grhame Sep 09, 2008

    Thanks, this makes a lot of sense and is where I keep coming back too as I check everything else. Are there any specific components in the inverter that would be most likely to go bad and that could be replaced? There are two 250v 1000microfarad capacitors that are externally hot...by hot I mean electtically charged...150 volt DC on the exterior. Should they be? Seems like a lot of current to be exposed to the open and not protected.

  • grhame Sep 09, 2008

    As I posted before to this same suggetion...tell me where the load sensor is on this model. There is no load sensor listed on any parts break down.

  • grhame Sep 09, 2008

    All of you keep requeting that I rate you, and you sugget that I gave you a bad rating, but I don't see anywhere in my posting of a response a place on this website to rate you. If there is a hidden field in the repost section please let me know. If I have to accept your suggestion to get to a place to rate you, that implies to me that you solved the problem and there won't be any more efforts by anyone.

  • grhame Sep 09, 2008

    OK, so would you suggest that the sensor problem is part of the inverter or part of the main circuit board?

  • grhame Sep 09, 2008

    Good suggestions, unfortunately everyone I know must have read the consumer report that rated this GE washer as a Do Not Buy. Seems they all knew it was a piece of junk. The machine I replaced is 25 years old and still going in some rental property. As for getting a local repair place's to assistance, they keep telling me they have to go by the error code which leads them to the motor, which I've already replaced, and they just won't guarantee any electrical components for return.

  • grhame Sep 09, 2008

    Thanks

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    OK, so you?re convinced it?s a sensor. That?s a very logical assumption. Now, look at the parts break down for this machinehttp://pcappliancerepair.com/model-displ...
    and find me a single sensor even remotely related to this problem, that?s all I?ve asked. The only place I see where a sensor could be located is either on the Main Circuit Board or in the Inverter. So, you?re right again. I don?t want to replace either one of these $200 non-returnable parts until I know for sure which one it is, and if there is a sensor on one of them that will solve the problem, where is it, that?s all I?m asking. I?m not beyond changing out components on a circuit card if I can get them. Or is this one of the infamous China built products with Capacitor Plaque or some other malady in the electronics and its going to be having these types or difficulties from now on?

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    I'll see what I can do, but from the customer's end, what I can post in a reply if very limited.

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    So the brand new motor is bad out of the box?

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    I fail to see how a link to a document titled: ?Aging and service wear of spring-loaded pressure relief valves used in safety-related systems at nuclear power plants? is of much help with a washing machine problem.

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    After replacing the motor, the only error code now showing up is 42. At the initial onset of the problem I had error codes: 4B, 42, 61, and 70

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    I don't think you're responding to my washing machine problem with your latest post about a dryer.

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    Have you read all the previous posts and suggestions of what?s been checked?

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    The error codes were all cleared and a full cycle run to come back to this error code. Reset again and same code returned.

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    The new motor came complete with a new speed sensor installed.

  • grhame Sep 10, 2008

    Its a brand new motor that performs exactly the way the old one did just before taking it out. Any suggestions of how to check these 3-phase DC motor?

  • grhame Sep 11, 2008

    Thanks Worldvet for taking the time to actually read the entire history. I?ve been wondering what is actually visible to the ?Experts? on this site when they respond considering some of the suggestions and frequent repeats. Also because from the consumer end of using FixYa its quite frustrating to only be able to accept a solution or repost your problem of which I must make a response every time something is posted before being able to move to another posted comment or so-called solution. Even worse, is that once I respond, I lose complete visibility of all suggestions/comments.

    I find it hard to give up on a washer that is only 2 years old as not being economical to repair, but with the number of times this machine has failed in the last year, just outside of warranty, and the cost of service calls and parts, that seems to be where I?m headed. As I?m sure you can relate, in the service there was no giving up on repairing an aircraft, it had to be fixed, even though it was decades old it would still be in the fight tomorrow. Not so with today?s appliances, the 28 year old washer and dryer I replaced is still going strong for the family I donated it to, but these modern energy savers cost through the nose to not only buy, but then to maintain.

    I?d like to take your suggestion of parking it on the vendor?s lot and calling the local TV station but unfortunately I purchased this GE piece of junk from the Base Exchange and they have a much different way of dealing with troops who respond in such a manner. Likewise, using it for target practice is grounds for a psyche eval. So for now, I?ll keep working on it for a little while longer and then start shopping for an old, reliable used machine I can afford.

  • grhame Sep 11, 2008

    The machine does not respond to these inputs at all.

  • grhame Sep 11, 2008

    The belt is in great shape and it is not slipping in the least.

  • grhame Sep 11, 2008

    The machine is as clean, inside and out, as the day it was bought.

  • grhame Sep 11, 2008

    Thanks, sounds like you?re thinking of the same basic functions of this machine. The pump and drain hose are clear. I?ve had to make cleaning the filter and checking the pump and drain a monthly routine with this machine for just the reasons you state, but they are all clean, clear, and working at this time. The wires seem to ohm good and the speed sensor is new, part of the new motor assembly, and in test mode, with no load inside, the machine will spin and achieve all 4 set RPM speeds and display them on the display.

  • grhame Sep 11, 2008

    Thanks for the detailed explanation on the pump replacement, but this pump checks out fine.

  • grhame Sep 11, 2008

    There is no capacitor on the motor, just several inside the inverter on its circuit card. The bearing is rotating smoothly and even with a load of cloths and full of water can be rotated by hand with little effort and no binding at any point.

  • grhame Sep 11, 2008

    I've already completely dissassembled and cleaned out the entire drainage system to include checking the pump for volume. There is not a pump or drain issue.

  • grhame Sep 11, 2008

    This is a front loading machine. There is no top to open and no centerpiece to grab, but I assure you, the bearing is fine. The drum does not give any when pushed or pulled on other than at the strut mounts.

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27 Answers

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Hi grhame

I am not familiar with the unit you are having problems with but if everything is fine except that it fails when it is loaded then if the problem is a motor problem as a motor (3 phase) we can consider a few things.
1. a 3 phase motor will stop if voltage unbalance
could simply be missing voltage on wire (problem with controller)

2. a 3 phase motor will stop if current unbalance
If it runs on light load(small current) but not on heavier loads then the problem is poor connection. You "drop" most of your voltage across poor contacts. Poor contacts increases circuit resistance and heating at the point of contact this leads to lower current hence Unbalance current in the particular leg.
This poor contact could actually be a poor solder point.

Use an amprobe (clamp-on) to check the motor per leg for current balance. Check with empty washer (the difference values may be small but near enough to allow it to run.

Regards

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

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Hai
Check This,I think this may helps You,


Recently, our front-loading GE WBVH6240 washing machine (essentially the same as the GE WBVH6260 and GE WHDVH626) stopped pumping out water, leaving the machine filled with soapy suds. Internet research showed that the solution was to pop off the front panel, open a drain, and then take apart the motor. Fixing it took much longer than it should have, because we could not find any photos or clear instructions as to where the screws and cleavage points were. Therefore, I'm posting some instructions with photos, with due credit for the basic process to http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/washer-repair/1482-ge-front-load-washer-wont-drain.html
GE washer WBVH6240; Won't tumble or spin with any  - bpg40.jpg Oh, and by the way - ours came without any serial number or model number label on the side or, for that matter, on the back. Shame on Sears or GE - though we probably should have noted this when it was first delivered. We got the model number by looking it up in the manual, matching the drawing to the machine.
First, a word on the pump. This is a DP40-018 Hanning Elektro Werke design - you won’t find that on the Internet easily. However, a search led me to hanning.de, which sells this assembly under the Hanning DP40 label. I suspect you can find a reseller eventually, for the pump itself; the rest of the assembly is unlikely to ever be damaged. The pump is made in China but we’re assured of Quality German Supervision (those of us who have relatives with Volkswagen and Mercedes cars are no longer convinced that German Supervision and Quality belong in the same sentence).
The working parts of the machine are accessible once you’ve removed the front panel. Underneath the front of the machine, if you bend down far enough, you can see three white-painted screws. Use a good, standard Philips screwdriver on these (#2 in our case). Get a good amount of pressure on the screws before turning because GE was foolish enough to get paint into the working part of the screw (that is, the cross-hatch), and you don't want to strip these. They are not that hard to get out, but again, you don’t want to strip them. Take out the three screws, pull off the panel, and you can see everything.
The pump is very close to you, on the right-hand side, right in front. First, get a big bucket - preferably several - and open up the drain valve (righty-tighty, left-loosey, so go LEFT, or counter-clockwise, to open it). Gallons of water will shoot out along with whatever rubbish is in the machine - pebbles from your young child, emory boards from your wife (or from you), marbles, coin batteries, lots of small change, etc. This in itself may solve your problem! but we might as well check the pump.
The pump screws are invisible unless you've taken off the hoses from the pump. There are two of these, and if you take them off before you drain the tub, you will have pretty well damaged the inside of your washer. Try to catch the water that comes out when you take off the hoses. My system is to use a locking pliers (vise-grips) to compress the two parts of the clip together - set the vise-grips so the two parts of the clip will just about touch each other. That will give you enough wiggle room to slide off the hose, gently, while holding the clip loose. Do not let the clip come back together over the hose. Gently open up the vise-grips once you're out of the washer and drop the clamp somewhere. Remember which clamp belongs to which hose (there are two hoses). Also remember which hose goes to which part of the pump. You should really be writing this down or something as you go. Photos of inside-the-washer are difficult to get.
Now, you should be able to see one of the screws. It's a bit of a job to get the screwdriver vertical over the screws, but you can do it. Do not try to hold the screwdriver at an angle; you really do not want to strip these screws and you don’t have to. They are not in very tight, and should come right out. One screw is pretty far to the left; the other is roughly in the middle of the pump; they are both on the far side of the pump and screw it down to the floor of the washer. Don’t try for the screws that hold the two parts of the pump together. The pump includes the drain-pipe! It’s all one assembly and it’s sold that way by Hanning. You can see it in the illustration at the top of this page. The pump is held in place by fairly firm supports that, when you look at it from the front of the washer, are behind the pump/pipe assembly.
To get the wires off, -- remembering which side each color wire is on! -- squeeze hard and pull carefully, working each terminal off, but without using so much force that you might break something or, when it releases, slam your hand into the sharp metal edge. Pull at the terminal, not at the wire - you don't want to break these, either, unless you like using solder guns in tight spots. Now you can gently push the pump/pipe assembly back, so that the white stubs on the drain-pipe clear the little rubber washer things, and when it’s free carefully lift it out of the washer.
Okay, now the pump is out. First, find the three visible screws that hold the motor to the pipe assembly (two of them are visible in the first photo, partly unscrewed), get a laundry marker, and mark the plastic where the screws go in so that when you re-assemble, you don’t have to figure out which holes they go into. Then separate the two parts of the pump - the motor and the rest of it - by undoing the three screws. We kept using our #2 Philips but a #1 might fit better; the screws came right out so it wasn’t an issue. And look what we found: a safety pin blocking the impeller (the moving part) from moving! No wonder the pump was warm. (If the pump is not warm, that indicates no current reaching it. However, on this washer, the pump does tend to get blocked more than anything else.)
hanning-pump.jpg A new pump will run you at least $170, probably more, from GE, so it’s well worth taking it apart and fixing it yourself, especially with service calls at $70 per hour.
I tried to get some of the lint out, with moderate success. This is a badly sealed pump and frankly I'm not impressed by the filter design, either. Someone got cheap in the engineering process and did not consider that owners do not want to take their pumps out every two years. Be careful with what you put into the machine!
When you re-assemble the pump, make sure you put the screws back into the holes that have threads.
Putting everything back was easy enough - be careful about pushing the white stubs into the black washer things (for the drain-pipe), and you may find the wires a little short, but it’s easier than getting it out. I had a photo of what the pump looked like before I took it apart, and now you do to, so you can easily put it back together the right way. The hardest part of getting everything back together was wiping up the water that spilled from the hose, and then getting the outer lid back on without someone to hold it in place.
Thank You

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

  • Abdur Rahim S
    Abdur Rahim S Sep 11, 2008

    Hai

    Try this i think it will give more better option for u.
    First thing you can do take the drain hose can blow into it without
    restriction. If not take lose the hoses to the pump. You might want to
    get some pinch off pliers to save water from going ever where or a shop
    vac to **** out the tub. If the pump is getting warm current is flowing
    to it and propeller is jammed more than likely. The front should have a
    couple of 1/4 screws at the corners on the front I think. should pop
    after removing them.


    Thank You


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  • 261 Answers

Ok we have a 2005 GE washing machine that doesnt accept a load, period. Because of the board many issues arise. I have worked on one of these and they are a pain. First we are going to do some weird stuff. Unplug this machine and remove the drain hose. Is the hose wet or marked like high tide? This machine will shut off motor function for a bad drain, clogged pump and generally anything until you figure out what the green blinking light means. If this is the one I am thinking of it has no gear case and sits on a brake. It uses a inverter board atop the motor to adjust speed to load and water levels to speed and direction. I dont have a manual on me but a steady blink is normal where a pause followed by a series of blinks is reference to an error. My last call on this was a pump jammed with socks. The motor sensed the load and totally shut power off to the motor at all functions. Unplugging the machine will reset to scene 1 and it will assume no issues. Now I read your issue over and it sounds like the brake at the base is to blame. Older Ge machines used a turtle brake as a correction on a one piece assembly previous because of this problem.

Posted on Sep 11, 2008

  • John Robbins
    John Robbins Sep 11, 2008

    PS The schematic shows a 3 phase motor when it is actually a single phase with three legs, usually 32 ohms is the norm per coil. I do say opps because I have been on the road all day and was thinking top and not front load machine, although somewhat parralel in nature. What I would do is clean with emery cloth the contacts for the hall sensor or speed sensor, then measure resistance from sensor and then plug it in and trace to the ccu and measure there, any difference over 10%would tell me to replace the wire harness. Whirlpool has this issue and so does LG! Now have you checked the pressure switch or the line leading from the tub to the switch? Please let me know as I have more access during the day to solutions for strange stuff then at night:)

  • John Robbins
    John Robbins Sep 13, 2008

    All of these wonderful insights, I have been on the road all week and I thought about this, your sensor reports the speed of the motor, the ccu senses the resistance of the motor and the pressure switch detects how full the machine is with wet material and water. Ok when these three report to the ccu, the ccu checks on a programed chart that says plainly at this load the motor is under this for resistance and spinning this fast because of the reading from the pressure switch. When these conditions are not met a generic failure code appears and we techs look at what would cause this and not just replace the piece the computer is reporting on. In your case from working on LG and Oasis I feel we need to replace the sensor or clean the contacts top and bottom and knowing GE's wire harness's you probably have a faulty wire splice between the sensor and the computer.

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I have to applaud your tenacity. My God, I haven't seen this level of patience in a really long time. Most people would have abandoned hope a long time ago.

I just spent the last half an hour reading through everything you've posted in response to some good input and the sheer mass of floatsum and jetsum you inevitably get from people with no experience at all.

My assumption, in lieu of a load sensor, is that the circuit board, that may have a a China Board Syndrome (as you pointed out), can react to a stronger than average load on the current to start the drum and this surge closes off a logic circuit as a safety precaution. This wold normally be the duty of an IC chip and you've pointed out you're up to removing and replacing this chip. With your experience paralleling mine, but in Helicopters with the Navy, you should be able to deduce and replace anything you encounter.

If my assumption of a logic circuit that senses a power overload on startup of the motor triggering a logic circuit is correct and there is no logic IC chip identified in the schematics, this would be a function of old school transistors and yes, relying on production tolerances of the parts used in the board. If this board is engineered to have all components used have no more than a 5% variation from the design and the board is made from components where tolerances are fudged then it makes sense that the board needs replacement. However, what and how much can you rely on a replacement board to be made with any better inspection procedures? I don't think you can nor should you.

There comes a point when we all have to cut our losses and move on and I hate to be one who uses this (and I never have so far here) as it sounds like a cope out, but perhaps it is time to give up the ghost on this one.

Yes, you would possibly have a case in US Courts. And, you would have to find several other owners with the same problem. And, then you could initiate a Class Action Law Suit if you can convince a law firm you have built a case strong enough for the firm to take on and spend the money to prosecute. As the initial claimant in a Class Action case, you get 10% of the claim returned, the law firm gets what the courts determine and everyone else gets something less than the cost of the units usually.

So, seeking legal remedy is not all that promising unless you just want to because it is in your nature to pursue these things.

The very few times I've been faced with moving on and giving up on something it really does irk me to no end to do so. But when I decide to do it and its over with I feel better.

Today, I work in the IT arena and there are times I have to pull a bad card and just tell the customer these things happen. I also point out they can take it to the target range next time and vent their frustration that way. For many, this works just fine as I live in the open West and everyone has guns and rifles here. And, I've seen video where a gun club took someones old car that was a money pit and ran the entire club up on it and just pelted that car to a cheese grater.

In your case, what I would do is park the machine off at the vendor's parking lot and place a sign on it for everyone to notice and read. Often, you can even take to calling your local TV station and ask for the reporter that covers consumer complaints. There is always a reporter who is assigned or one who will love to get there hands on a good case. Me, I used to work as one of those reporters and we could easily shame a vendor into doing a Candy Dance and get you a good honest to god working machine.

Anyway, I've taken enough of your time already. Good Luck.

Worldvet

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

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This is a motor problem and unfortunately needs rewinding or better replacement the motor.
good luck!

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

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  • 377 Answers

If your washer did not work properly and spin properrly it is possible that you experience mechanical prob. on your washer.. dont disregards the factors that there is a problem on your motor or any rotating parts inside

Posted on Sep 10, 2008

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After 20 good solutions and u said no to every one wen its defiantly the sensor and u dont want to do it ,,,chuck it out and get a new one

Posted on Sep 09, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • chris07551 Sep 10, 2008

    the motor for the dryer has to be gone then

  • chris07551 Sep 10, 2008

    oh i got it i think if everthing is fine is there something stuck and making it not turn ?



  • chris07551 Sep 10, 2008

    oh i got it i think if everthing is fine is there something stuck and making it not turn ?



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Since you have tried everything from your part, now i would suggest you to get repaired by an expert otherwise it may be too expensive or it may cost you a new one.

All the best!!!!!

Posted on Sep 09, 2008

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I;'d say you need to replace the load sensor, this has no doubt been said already though, it seems everything has been covered

Posted on Sep 09, 2008

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G'day mate

For my 2 cents worth, it is the invertor causing the problem. It has to soft start and reverse the motor. It may be a current limiting sense problem that affects the motors ability to spin up with different loads present. All the references to it being a 3 phase motor and problems ascociated with that are great if it was mains powered, but the invertor circuit looks after all the motors start/stop and speed control/torques settings. This is where I would start.

robotek

Posted on Sep 09, 2008

  • Graeme Ross
    Graeme Ross Sep 09, 2008

    Welcome to board level repairs, with high power levels present. Your Thanks for Trying rating gives totally no incentive to follow up with you..... so good luck mate and work safe!! :)

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You either need to replace the load sensor or get the machine serviced. This is not an easy DIY..

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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Hi.. sir..     i hve a best solution . it is the bearing problem.. where the motor start's to run but do't take the load.. u see the rotor part which holded by the bearing of the body part.. just lubericate it.. and finnaly test the capacitor of that motor by connecting it to direct suppy. it makes the sound chatt chatt. i seem to be working..    i am assure that thee is no problem in the circuit board or any.. it work's  if any problem .i am there to solve the problem.. please post and rate it.. sir..   thank u.. have a nice day..

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • 2 more comments 
  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Sep 08, 2008

    hi sir.
        it is bearing problem.. 

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Sep 10, 2008

    hi sir 
    as you given that these are not one of  the problems at last i thought
    it wasa load sensor problem or spinner problem you should service it

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Sep 10, 2008

    hi sir
    i think the inlet vlves are blocked up by waste so when water is there the machine will wont tuble

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Sep 11, 2008


    hi sir
    .
    . When machine is off, open the top grab the centerpiece inside the wash machine and pull and push it slowly, does it move? (For safety unplug the machine)
    . Make sure machine is 100% level (front to back, left to right)

    The most common thing is bad drum bearing, which force the wash machine out of whack when in spin / wash. Which are common and the best thing is to call Maytag. 

    thanks............................

    __________________



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....after all the suggestions and the problem still persist.. Some times its difficult to find a simple position. Another tech may see the problem from another point of view. look for local repairman to hear a different suggestion.
Regards.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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Its better to get it repaired,......as it is the best possible solution for your problem,....The turbine problems are advised to get repaired as it needs a direct view of the problem.......

Thanks

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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After all the suggestions and the problem still persist then send it to repair service. to fix and replace some parts of your machine. better to be sure than risky.

cheers
CHARCOIS

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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Hello grahame,

i dont know if you can still see me post, you seem a little bit upset already...

just give this a try,
there is a part at the bottom of the unit, actually at the flooring cover, it has two wires and i think it is a water sensor. if there is water at the bottom it would stop the unit.

anyway, we were asked to bypass that thing because they said (washing machine seminar )that this part somehow gives un-usual problem. by pass it by shorting/ opening both wires.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool


Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • francis rivero Sep 08, 2008

    tnx for considering my solution,

    if there is no water sensor at the bottom, what about if your unit has a vibration sensor? with even a very small load it would vibrate and would probably trigger an alarm?..

    if it is defective...

    and just to elaborate some more,

    the inverter could detect if there is a load or not by monitoring the small change of current if there is a load and if there is non.

    can you post us the result of this washing machine please..i'm just curious on what is wrong with your unit and it would be an additional knowledge for us...

    tnx again 4 using fixya..

    drcool



  • francis rivero Sep 09, 2008

    hi again grhame,

    from reading this post, i think it all points to the inverter. and i'm with you for the hesitation to buy a new once since we're not talking of less than $50.00 here. it could run from $100 - $200...

    my suggestion would be if you could talk to friends or colleagues who would be kind enough to lend you their inverter from an identical unit just to prove which part is defective.

    then you can buy the inverter if it is the defective part.

    or you can talk it out with accredited service centers wherein you wont pay for a new inverter if the problem would not be solve.

    again, please do tell us what would be the solution with this problem in case it would be fix for our input...

    tnx again,

    drcool


  • francis rivero Sep 10, 2008

    hello again grhame,

    when you replaced the motor, did you transfer the speed sensor or it came with a new speed sensor?.

    this is the part at the end of the shafting of the motor which has two wires to monitor the speed and rotation of the motor.

    it is even stated in the diagram posted by ginko....

    the round black thing in the diagram besides the three phase motor.

    it could be the culprit...

    keep us posted,

    tnx,

    drcool



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Tub and motor assembly
http://genet.geappliances.com/IPCNet/Dispatcher?REQUEST=IPCNETGETPDF&file=00000000/00054900/00054984.p04.pdf
Tub and motor assembly part refrence
http://www.myapstore.com/Omega/Dispatcher?REQUEST=ACCESSORY

Control Board assembly diagram
http://genet.geappliances.com/IPCNet/Dispatcher?REQUEST=IPCNETGETPDF&file=00000000/00054900/00054984.p01.pdf
part number refrences
http://www.myapstore.com/Omega/Dispatcher?REQUEST=ACCESSORY


According to me the problem with the washer could be at two locations.

1. The driving pulley kit could be faulty
2. The gasket assembly



Thanks
Proton

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • Mandeep  Singh
    Mandeep Singh Sep 08, 2008

    Do check if the the washer pump fillter is clogged , because that could be one small thing that we could have overlooked.

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U can change the belt or tighty the belt .............

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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I had a similar problem before. I traced the problem in the switch. There were ants and their food in it. Upon cleaning and inspecting for damaged parts, it worked out fine. I suggest you try opening and troubleshooting the switch.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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Hi,

If I may add to the guess work:

  • starting capacitor (if it has one);
  • lint/debris collector at the bottom (panel/cover with 3 screws must be removed to gain access);
  • door switch (probably intermittent; bypass by jumping the terminals/connector).
All of the above could be performed/tested with no need to purchase immediately a replacement.

If I may inquire, how many wires to the motor? Alternately, it is possible that the motor has two (2) speeds lo/hi. In the absence of a starting capacitor, it would start on the low winding then switch over to hi speed. Switching over is performed either by a relay or SCR/Triac on the control board. Common faults are cold solder or burned out solder joint. In some extreme cases, it could be a relay being energized but the contacts having been burned would not provide good switching action or the SCR/Triac open or shorted.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Sep 08, 2008

    Hi again,

    Appreciate the postback and additional information.

    For some reason, I can not reconcile the idea of a 3phase motor for a home washer. Additionally, I am of the opinion that the inverter's function is to reverse direction of rotation and not convert single phase to 3 phase.

    I could not locate a schematic diagram specifically for a WBVH6240. It would appear that there are several versions of this particular model number: like WBVH6240FGG, WBVH6240FWW to name a few. Pls, which one do you have? With your indulgence, pls confirm if this schematic or this one is identical to the one that you have.

    With the different versions, could you likewise verify the motor that you have replaced; one from here or this one or pls post back part number. Incidentally, the last one is actually a modification of the existing motor/wiring for a particular model to address certain issues such as not spinning even with no defective parts.

    As to the color code of the motor wiring harness, I could only venture a guess (in the absence of a reliable schematic):


    • red - hi speed

    • white - common

    • blue - low speed

    • yellow - normally would go to a starting capacitor

    • yellow - normally would go to a starting capacitor

    • black - chassis ground (as you have posted)

    • red - RPM sensor (as you have posted)

    • red - RPM sensor (as you have posted)
    Cheers.





  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Sep 09, 2008

    Would it be possible for you to post/share the schematics?

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Sep 09, 2008

    To my knowledge, the capacitor should not be 'HOT" specially the body alone.

    Do you have access to a scanner? If yes, you can try scanning the schematics and post it here or in a free hosting site that will allow you to post files/images temporarily.

    Cheers.

    BTW pls understand that rating is very important to most of us here but then again you are right, none of the solutions forwarded so far has solved or lead you to a solution.

    I believe that I have not asked that you rate me......yet... since the problem still stands.


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Belt is slipping and needs replacement

Robert

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • 1 more comment 
  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Sep 08, 2008

    only other thing if it is not the belt and the motor appears to stutter would be a problem with the motor... it funtions without a load but when you make it work harder by adding clothes it drags it down.



    Robert

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Sep 08, 2008


    I am uncertain how the drain hose can stop it from spinning but that appears to be one of the solutions



    Drain hose is kinked or •
    Straighten drain hose and make sure washer is not

    improperly connected
    sitting on it.

    Household drain may •
    Check household plumbing. You may need to call

    be clogged
    a plumber.

    Drain hose siphoning; drain hose •
    Ensure there is an air gap between hose and drain.

    pushed too far down the drain

    Washer pump filter may •
    Have your pump filter cleaned.

    be clogged

    Load is out of balance •
    Redistribute clothes and run drain & spin or rinse & spin.

    Increase load size if washing small load containing heavy

    and light items.

    Motor is overheated •
    Washer motor will stop if it becomes overheated. It will

    automatically restart after a cool down period of up to

    30 minutes (if washer has not been manually turned off).

    Door is open •
    Make sure door is closed.



    Oddly enough the other is to make sure both taps are on.



    Robert



    Please rate this solution

  • Roberta Smith
    Roberta Smith Sep 08, 2008

    Drain hose is kinked or improperly connected



    Straighten drain hose and make sure washer is not sitting on it.



    Household drain may be clogged Check household plumbing. You may need to call

    a plumber.



    Drain hose siphoning; drain hose pushed too far down the drain



    Ensure there is an air gap between hose and drain



    Washer pump filter may be clogged



    Have your pump filter cleaned



    Load is out of balance



    Redistribute clothes and run drain & spin or rinse & spin.



    Increase load size if washing small load containing heavy

    and light items.



    Motor is overheated



    Washer motor will stop if it becomes overheated. It will

    automatically restart after a cool down period of up to

    30 minutes (if washer has not been manually turned off).



    Door is open Make sure door is closed.

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I thiunk the solution lies in the unevenload sensor.Think about what happens when you have a uneven load? the drum stops. look for a faulty sensor in that circuit.. please rate thanks

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • Ronald Mueller
    Ronald Mueller Sep 09, 2008

    whether you like it or not you have a sensor problem. even if the schematic doesn't show it as a independant sensor the fact still remains that it's intergrated in the board itself. now unless you have vast experience in repairing microcurcuitry. you will not solve this problem by yourself. so here are your options either find a replacement board and hope you install install it correctly(watch out for a static discharge) or have a local qualified technician do it for you.

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WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR WASHING MACHINE?

GE washer WBVH6240; Won't tumble or spin with any  - small_11_21.jpg For a detailed Washing Machine illustration, click below.

redarrow.gif

redarrow.gif
Top Load Whirlpool Style
Top Load GE Style
redarrow.gif Front Load Maytag Style
redarrow.gif Front Load Frigidaire/GE/Kenmore Style
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.

Some problems that can occur with your top-loading washing machine are:

There's an error code on the digital display

It doesn't work at all
It won't drain
It doesn't spin
It doesn't agitate
It's noisy
It leaks
It's off balance
There's no hot water
There's no cold water
It's slow to fill
There's no water at all
The clothes are wet after spinning
The cycle doesn't advance
There's no delicate or regular spin or agitate
It's overfilling
It's underfilling
The water temperature is incorrect

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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It is not the belt, it is the bearing at the rear of the drum or the motor coupling, it is going to be a job for a technician, unless you have practice on washing machine repairs.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • 12 more comments 
  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    Here you find exploded view and parts for your appliance.

    Check the pulley and the bearing at the rear of the tub.

    If the belt is weak or damaged you may also need to replace the belt.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    Logic board is just switching, the motor coupling is determining how fast it runs, but probably it is just a belt slipping on the pulley when there is load. If so replace belt.

    If the bearing is gone you can see it, it will also cause vibration.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    Then check the belt when the machine is load. More weight, less grip, belt slips off.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    It is not the motor... but as you seem to know already that is the motor , what can I do...

    When it is motor or solenoid, the machine does not cycle at all, return an error message, and machine does not spin even when there is no load.
    In the best case it will be the Motor Control Unit is located is inside a plastic
    control box located in the lower front corner of
    the washer cabinet.

    Leave the motor alone...

    Check if machine is draining at the end of the cycle. This will give indications on what is broken.

    If it is not draining it is probably the water pump motor, it this is defective, the water level switch will just stop machine from operating.

    Also the dispenser switch and the central control unit in rare occasions can give same conditions.

    Check the clutch, and the belt, when you are 100% sure that is not from here check the motor control unit. The motor is fine.

    Here is some diagrams:











    the diagrams above are for a generic GE, it costed me 20 minutes to copy and organise them here, let see if this rewards or a just a waste of my time,
    the motor is fine, try limiting test and repair operation with live power connected to the minimum, that is also a rule.





  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    Here is also a general wiring diagram for three-phase asynchronous induction type motor mounted on whirpool , kenmore and GE:




  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    3-phase motoris not 'odd to find' most electronic control motors are three pfase on washing machine.

    The motor is fine, you told you even replaced it with no success.
    Your machine is electronic controlled, when motor is faulty you get an error message.

    Regarding your comment .

    I posted the link to exploded views here exploded view and parts for your appliance., and it is the same model.

    I am afraid I am not going to spend any more time on this appliance.

    Thanks for using fixya.



  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    Last thing on the motor, you told me you are a test
    engineer, then I assume you are able to energise the motor.

    Remobe the belt and energise the motor, if it runs, forget about the motor, the problem is elsewhere.

    Test the motor control unit, follow wires from motor to find it.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    Did you test the MCU?

  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    Check the wiring to the motor, and the inverter, they should be under a wiring cover at the back of the machine, on the lower part, see if there is a control box wiring to the motor in there.



  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    I agree on the bearing, when bearing is bad the machine start shaking, it does not stop tumbling.
    Did you replace the whole motor kit?


  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 08, 2008

    See the diagram here. Move the mouse on the picture until you see the motor control board, near to the motor.
    See if you can find the part in your appliance.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 10, 2008

    If you get motor error, it can be a problem in the wiring harness, that runs from the upper part of the WM. If it is not that the only part accessing to the motor is the inverter.
    When there is an unbalance switch (this can also give you similar troubles) you get error UE on GE.

    Can you tell us again the exact error codes you are getting.


  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 10, 2008

    Not sure, but error 42 can be the machine stuck in diagnostic mode after you replaced the motor. Did you call Ge again to ask them, probably there is a reset procedure to perform after replacing the motor.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Sep 10, 2008

    Well try doing this, just in case:

    Version 3 (During Date Code 43 June 2005 - to date )



    To Activate



    1. Press On/Off and Start/Cancel together with the top left option button until d On appears.



    To Deactivate



    1. Press On/Off and Start/Cancel toghether with top left option button until d OF appears.


    try it and just tell me if you can perform procedure and if it works, as the procedure was for E 43 on a different model.


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  • 141 Answers

How about the belt, tensioner, or transmission?

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

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  • GE Master
  • 63,456 Answers

I thin this issue is the washer control circuit board, this is the logic board that controls functions.

Posted on Sep 08, 2008

  • yadayada
    yadayada Sep 08, 2008

    That is THINK

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Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often interrelated..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out thistip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkoutthis tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Jul 24, 2011 | GE Washing Machines

1 Answer

My question is; the washer,model,wbvh6240 has any filter


No , all new front loads have a self cleaning filter. Therefore nothing needs to be emptied or clean. The little trap door in front of the washer is to drain it in case of a power failure when the washer is full of water. .

Mar 15, 2011 | GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My ge front end loader washer won`t spin water or pump water out


Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Jan 29, 2011 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Hi. my ge wjse3110a won.t spin unless is start spinning it first by hand


Hi,
The motor is going bad...
Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin


If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning


heatman101

Sep 07, 2010 | GE WJSE3110A Top Load Washer

1 Answer

GE WBVH6240 Front load washer. Pump running while empty


you would need to go into the fault codes and read them. the tech sheet should be under the lid or in the kick panel

Feb 07, 2010 | GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

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