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Hi Gary, It is possible that your ground fault plug is at fault itself. Sometimes the GFIB becomes weak and will trip off without there being a real problem. Some GFIB are rated at 15 amperes and some are rated at 20 amperes. I would recommend that you check it out and make sure that your GFIB is rated at 20 amperes and is new. Even though a GFIB might be rated at 20 amperes, the fault condition that allows the GFIB to trip is a very small amount of current detected between the safety ground...the round hole and the neutral (the larger vertical blade). The 'trigger' circuit is looking for any current flow between the safety ground wire and the neutral wire and that will probably be in the range of 100 milliamperes and above. FYI, refrigerators and washing machines do not like GFIB's
Bottom Line: You can make your washer operate on your GFIB plug by using a ground buster which is an adapter which you plug your washer power cord into the ground buster and the ground buster into the wall receptable. Please keep in mind that if you use a ground buster.....your washer will not have a safety ground. Hope this helps you! Handy Henry
There is a dead short somewhere in the unit, I suspect a leaking pump and the motor got wet, is there any water under the unit? If not then you will have to remove the cabinet and check from the power cord to the control panel and beyound if neccesary to find out what is causing the short. Does the unit trip immediatly or does it take a while. If it takes a while and you have power to the unit for a little while then you may have a motor that is weak and stuck in a bad spot on the winding, you can try to spin it a small distance to see it it will take off. But BY All Means, UNPLUG THE UNIT BEFORE OPENING THE CABINET! These newer machine the cabinet slides off towards the front after you remove a few screws holding the control panel on.
Sorry but with such a major fault it is virtually impossible for anybody on this forum to remotely guess what is wrong with your washer.
It could be internal wiring/plugs sockets, control panel switches, control PCB, water inlet control valves, door solenoid as primary suspects. Secondary suspects could be main motor, drain motor.
I fear that you only real option is a service call as the engineer will have the right equipment to safely diagnose what is wrong.
The ground not being connected does not tirp thr gfi. The gfi senses the current between the two legs it will trip when the current returning to ground (neutral) exceeds 5mili amps. This is for personal protection. If you have a gfi circuit breaker disconnect the black wire from the breaker, if it does not trip you likely have a groung fault in the washer. If you have a dryer or other metal object that is grounded (Bonded) you may get a shock from it, also standing (barefoot) on a concrete floor may cause the same. ( bonded is a gronded conductor that attaches all metal parts of a electrical curcuit together) a hot lead goes to ground is a dead short and will trip any breaker.
A faulty heater in both a washing machine and dishwasher will trip swithes because they both cause an earth........the chances are you heater needs replacing......the reason its tripping after a short period is probably beacause the cycle doesnt start heating the water until after approx 15-20 mins depending on the cycle chosen
With the symptoms you describe i would suspect a intermittent heater element fault as you are getting earth leakage current which is tripping the whole supply rather than a current overload which would just trip the socket circuit breaker. Get the heating element checked over first as this is the most likely cause.