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Nardi Dishwasher: stops before fill : program / fault code info please....

Hi, can anyone help me with this one please?
machine starts cycle ok, empties dregs, but then fill valve doesn't open.
Machine soon stops with the all 5 leds on, with the rh one flashing.

I've aslo checked:
Valve ok- fills if you give it a neutral.
Fill pressure sensor (on front rh) seems ok - pipe blows through - you can hear switch clicking over on blow- but Ive not tested continuity.

It seems that the empty maight be taking too long- before stopping.

Any help much appreciated, Thanks, Harry, Huuddersfield

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 833 Answers

SOURCE: Indesit dishwasher overfilling

There are two ways that dishwashers generally fill. One is a float inside the tub, the second is a tube which fills with water, loops and goes to a pressure switch below the machine. That switch is usually about 1.5 inches in diameter, two wires and a small hose going to it. The float witch is found below the float in the motor area. With the float, sometimes they jam with too much old detergent or food goo. Clean out. Both can have the switch weld closed. Change the switch in either case. Since the unit is not filling with the power off, I'm going to guess the water solenoid is okay.

Posted on Dec 22, 2007

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: how to mend it .com - Bosch dishwasher SGS43A12GB-27 does not stop filling

possibly the inlet water valve stuck open tho this is rare.

disconnect the valve electrically and see if the fault is still present. if so, the valve is stuck open and needs replacing

Posted on Jun 25, 2008

  • 409 Answers

SOURCE: bosch classicxx dishwasher not working check water light on

he there,

sounds like there may be something caught in the drain pump itself.

can you provide me with the complete model # on your dishwasher please?

thanks

Posted on Sep 25, 2008

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Dishwasher not filling

Make sure you get water to the dishwasher. Check to see if the water shut-off valve (located under the sink) is open. If you get water to the dishwasher, but there is still no water inside during the fill cycle, the problem might be with a faulty water valve (located at the bottom of the dishwasher, behind the kick panel, on either side), in which case replace the water valve.

Posted on Jun 21, 2009

  • 160 Answers

SOURCE: indesit d41 dishwasher overfilling, pressure

possible faulty pressure switch or a faulty drain pump

Posted on Dec 21, 2009

Testimonial: "cheers"

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: Fill Fault appears during wash cycle.

Is the filter in the hose where it screws onto the tap clean?, if this is okay then most likely the valve.

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

Testimonial: "Hi, Thanks so much for the reply. I checked the filter in the hose and it appears 'clean'. As you said it may be the valve. Thank you Stephen"

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Hello Brien, First let me start by apologizing for the difficulty you've had here at FixYa. It is unfortunate the assistance (or lack of) was not helpful or specific to your inquiry, but I'd like to attempt to make amends. I am quite familiar with your model and in fact have serviced Bosch for around 15yrs. When you receive the timer (It is very rare to need one in a Bosch, more likely stat on the inside door panel) I'd be more than willing to guide you through the process and I will even send you a complimentary service manual if you provide an email address. I will understand if you have closed the door on any further input from "experts" here at FixYa but will do what I can to help if you're open. Sorry once again and good luck going forward. Regards, Macmarkus :)

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Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.


There was indeed a recall involving the control replacement nearly two years ago now if I recall.

As for checking into the present issue ( it doesn`t sound like anything to do with the control based on your description ) it sounds like the pump impeller may have become stuck. Did the dishwasher sit idle or in storage unused for a period of time ?

I have a service bulletin I could send you via email regarding remedying that issue of stuck impeller if you contact me at macmarkus@live.ca

I`d suggest you run the dishwasher through a diagnostic, but either procedure will require hooking it up.

To do this test/diagnostic on the SHU4322 series machine, it is as follows...

To start test program, press and hold both REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ "20" = version 0 without jumper).

When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
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Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time.

When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ "6" = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)

0 = No faults detected
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault
2 = Heating fault
4 = Filling fault
8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)


To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.

i.e.

86c0a8d.jpg

If water level switch has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won't be completed. If flow switch has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150?F) and water won't stop circulating. If NTC probe has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.


What needs to be done to solve the problem will depend on the results/findings of the dianostic, so let me know what you find and we can go from there.

Either way keep me in the loop and I`ll assist you the best I can. Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

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Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

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To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
---------
The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

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To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
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