For some reason my N6006 will not read the DX coding on a cannister of infrared film I need to shoot for my photo class. How does one go about manually overriding the film speed so that I can use the light meter? I've looked on the internet and in the manual and I can't find anything.
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Re: Film speed override?
Press and hold the ISO button on the top left and rotate the command dial on the right until the film speed appears on the display. Release the ISO button and the speed is set.
In case your instructor hasn't told you, IR light is just below visible light on the spectrum and has a longer wavelength. Therefore, IR light will focus behind the film plane for a given setting. I.e., if you preset the lens to focus at 10 feet, the IR light will focus at a shorter distance. Unless your lens has a distance mark for IR, I would limit my shooting to longer distances and smaller f-stops to use the depth-of -field to compensate. When you are in focus for IR, the image in your viewfinder will be out of focus. The closer you are to the subject, the more out of focus the image will appear at the correct focus setting.
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Okay. Just bear in mind that the exposure meter is going to be two stops off, unless you're getting the film pull-processed.
The Maxxum 3Xi unfortunately does not have a way of overriding the Camera Automatic Sensing portion of the DX encoding standard. That is, if the film cartridge has the DX encoding, the camera will set itself to the indicated speed.
However, if the film cartridge is NOT encoded, the camera will set itself to ISO 100. So, if you tape over the magnetic encoding on the cartridge...
The CAS is not the barcode on the film cartridge, but the rectangular patches of conductive and nonconductive material.
Take a look at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DX_encoding for more information about the DX encoding.
The hardest thing about low light photography is balancing your available shutter speed to the amount of action you're trying to capture.
Here are a few things to try:
1) Try using a tripod. Steadying your camera during long exposures will greatly improve your image clarity.
2) Buy a faster film. You may need to increase your film's ISO setting. Try 400 to start, then go up from there. Remember, faster film always produces grainy images, and it usually costs a little more to process. If you're stuck with 100 ISO, you can always "push process" the film, where a given ISO is let to sit in its developer longer than usual--This will cost you more too!
3) Invest in a good flash system. Nikon has tons of hotshoe flash systems that rarely compromise the ambient light-mood of a given situation. Look for one that lets you aim the flash in different directions, and try to find one that will meter a light situation on its own.
4) Turn on the lights. If you're ok with losing some of the romance of an image, turn on some more lights to give you some more flexibility when making your exposure choices.
5) Open up your aperture. You may find that a lot less in depth of field will give you a lot more in image clarity and exposure flexibility. Shooting at f2.8 with only a birthday cake lighting your subject will grant you many more valuable shutter stops that shooting the same with f5.6.
Remember, Rebecca, if you're shooting handheld, you must do everything in your power to shoot with the quickest shutter speed available. This will cut down on the blurriness of your indoor images.
--Hope this helps.
I'm not familiar with your exact model so what follows is generic to many film SLR cameras and assumes that the camera is already empty:-
Open the back of the camera by pulling upwards the rewind crank on the top left hand end of the camera (as viewed from behind). The back of the camera should pop open a little, open it all the way.
Before fitting the film, check if the film can is DX coded. It will have DX printed on it somewhere if it is, but will also have a large area bare metal squares interspaced with printed black squares or rectangles. if the film is not DX coded then look for an ISO number, ASA number or DIN number and note it somewhere.
Drop the roll of film into the space at the left of the camera, and push the rewind crank back down to secure the film canister. Pull out the film leader across to the right hand end of the camera. Often there are printed instructions or diagrams showing what to do. Your camera probably has an easy loading system in which you pull the film leader until it's level with a printed line and then close the camera back until it clicks.
Turn the camera on, normally it will staert whirring as it autoloads the fil onto the take up spool. If successful the number one will appear in the film counter display within a few seconds. If not then open the camera back and try again.
What you do next depends on whether the film is DX coded or not. There will either be a dial or a menu item which allows you to set the film speed, for DX coded films set the control to DX or to AUTO. If the film is a rare non DX-coded one then you need to set the speed manually. Select the correct ISO number in the menu. If your film had an ASA number then use it as an ISO number and if it had a DIN number then look up DIN to ISO conversion online.
If this has solved your problem then please return the favour by rating my answer, thanks.
the only thing that I could think of when I read your situation is, that you might not be using a DX coated films. see, the camera reads the bar code on the film and maybe it is not the same program. check the camear manual and make sure you are using the same kind of the suggested film in the manual. good luck