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Hi I broke my 7 speed cassette I cant find what kind or make it is I
would like to put a shimano on it just wanted to know if it would fit the bike is only 3 mounth's old can you help ? Thanks Charlie
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Not practical, as you would need to change far too many parts of the drive train, and the rear wheel, at a significant expense. Two of the gears added would be higher than your current high gear, and therefore of very limited use (no, they will not make you go faster). If you feel you have to have a 10 or 11 speed then sell your bike and buy a good used one.
Could be just an over-tight cable.. or the limit screws at the gear end over-tightened so that the selector does not transverse the full width of the gear cluster cassette...
The largest 3 cogs are riveted together as are the next 2 cogs.
Cassettes can have up to 34-tooth low gears. 12x27 is a common size. Mountain bike sizing is next and it involves someothing more like 11x32 or 34.
Your rear derailleur, if it's a short-cage, may not be able to handle a much larger cog. Do some online research for the largest cog it can accomodate.
You don't say what size chainrings (or how many) you have. Compact cranksets run 50x34 or 36 up front, which makes a huge difference if you're coming from a 52x42 or 52x39 setup. I converted one of my bikes to compact and it's my favorite hilly-ride bike now.
Consult a bike shop because some special tools and skills are required. And web search for 'how to' just about anything.
Nope. Campi and Shimano casette bodies are TOTALLY INcompatible, BUT I have had good luck with finding Campi casettes online (eBay) and having no interchange problems between my wheels and Shimano or Campi 9-speed shifters and derailleurs on several bikes. I switch wheels without concern for the other hardware.
If you are going to use the front triple crankset, then you need to use the 6603 components. These are for Triple set-ups.
If you intend to keep your bike a triple, then everything in the drivetrain must be the triple designation, hence the XX03.
If you want to change the crankset to a compact, then you can use the 6600 (double) equipment, but you will need to change the left (front shifter) to a double as well. The compact crankset, will give you virtually the same range as the triple and be much lighter and shift better.
The cassette: You can use any 10 spd cassette from Shimano or SRAM as long as the rear cog is no larger than 27. if you want to use a larger cog like a 28, then you will have to use the 6700 group, assuming yoiu want to stay with shimano ultegra.
Final Note: Since you are chainging everything, you may want to consider the SRAM Apex group, this gives you more gear ratio than the Ultegra, is slightly less expensive and around the same weight. Great alternative to Triple bikes.
Parts you will need to convert:
Rear Derailleur
Front Derailleur (if changing to compact double or Apex)
Chain
Shifter set (if Apex)
Crankset (if Apex or compact shimano)
Bottom Bracket (if Apex)
The biggest thing is that Shifters and rear derailleur must be from the same company (shimano, SRAM, etc.) after that just make sure that yoiu use 10spd with 10spd, 9 with 9, and so on. Everything else can mix and match.
by the "flywheel" I am assuming you are talking about the gears? If so, this is called the cassette. You will need a couple of special tools to remove it. First you take the wheel off the bike and then you use a special tool (available at any bike shop) that fits into the axle housing and will allow you to unscrew the retaining ring. However, you will also need another tool to hold the axle from spinning (since you will be trying to move it in the same direction that the wheel normally spins). Once you get the "cassette" off then you can clean it and replace it.
Of course it can be converted to anything you want - at a price and with some effort. I recently converted a vintage 1984 Cannondale road bike from 2x7 Suntour downtube to full Campi 2x9, carbon crank, yada yada. I like riding it as much as any of the other 3 road bikes I have.
I sourced most of the parts for my various bike projects on eBay. If you're looking for vintage or retro, that's where you go. Just avoid buying cassettes that have been 'slightly' used.
Assuming your bike is still an original 7- or 8-speed, and you want to keep it that way, you may have to hunt around for compatible shifters. Upgrading from 7- or 8-speed to 9 may be the way to go, but then you'd have to get a new cassette (minimum) or a new wheel, or it may not fit into your frame's rear dropouts as the axle spacing crept up over the years with the addition of cogs.
Consider all the individual steps conversion may require; and if each requires yet another modification or encounters a dead end, like frame spacing. At retail prices for parts these days it might be more economical to get a new bike. OTOH, there's no matching the satisfaction of keeping a favorite steed active and doing the work yourself.
The rear cassette is only a part of the solution. The front gearset also comes with a variety of ring/teeth configurations.
Plenty on new bikes come with a 'compact' gearset (2 front rings, 10 speed rear cassette). That is generally a lower gear ration to aid in hill climbing.
The rear cassettes are easily interchanged (must be same brand as what the hub uses). Of the 3 you listed; the 11-26 would be "Fastest".
If you want to go fast, and are fit enough to power it at speed for a good duration... look for a large crank ring (greatest number of teeth) and a small cassette # (like the 11-26 you listed). It's a sinple ratio calculation. What you're looking for is the most amount of rear wheel rotations per crank rotation. That is achieved by a big (lots of teeth) front ring and a small (not many teeth) rear cassette ring.
While at the bike store, put the bike in it's highest gear (biggest ring on the crankset, smallest ring on the wheel cassette). Lift the rear wheel off the ground and count the amount of rear wheel rotations for 1 crank rotaion.
A triathalon/time-trial bike will come with a ratio of about 5.5-6.5 rotatotions of the rear wheel for each rotation of the crank.
An endurance road bike (with compact gearset) might come with about 4.25 rear wheel rotations for each crank rotation.
Tri/TT bikes are made to put the rider in the most areodynamic position possible thereby reducing the wind drag and making pedaling easier (so you can manage a higher gear ratio). Endurance road bikes are designed to put the rider in a confortable position (more upright) for all day riding.
Get the bike shop to fit you properly to the bike you choose, not all shops offer this. There are professional bike fitters that can help you when you get close.
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