Question about Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Top Load Washer

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How do i take the outside off of my kenmore washer to check the motor stuff,

I read a problem that sounds like mine and i am wondering how i take the casing off to check to see what it is?

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Kenmore/whirlpool & heaps of others

  • Unplug washer
  • turn off taps
  • remove trims from edge of control panel
  • remove screws from under bottom edge of trims
  • raise slide forward and flip control panel over, hinged at top, do not dislodge air hose to level control
  • remove brass body clips under control panel, not position for reinstall
  • lift body 1/2inch (locator studs at bottom) and remove, top front and both sides come away as one piece
motor pump gearbox tub suspension is now exposed
reassemble in reverse order

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.20952992

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https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

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The F51 fault code on these types of washers indicates that the machine control board detects an RPS (Rotor Position Sensor) failure. This sensor is on the motor at the bottom of the washer.
Here is the troubleshooting for the F51 fault code:
  • Do not overload the washer. Overloading can cause this fault code.
  • Check underneath the washer for any clothes or toys that could be under the washer and obstructing the motor from turning freely. This can occur because there is not a cover on the bottom of the Washer.
  • Using too little water by choosing the wrong cycle for the type of load being washed can cause this fault code.
  • Make sure that your drain hose is properly installed per your installation instructions. Siphoning of fill water out of the washer can cause tub resistance and will result in this fault code.
  • Lift the lid and reach in and make sure that the basket turns freely. If not, you could have garments stuck between the two baskets or a problem with the basket hub. Any abnormal resistance to tub movement can cause this fault.
  • Unplug the washer. Make sure that both the Control Board Connectors P5 (Motor Wires, red, blue and yellow), and the P10 (RPM Sensor Wires, 7 brown wires) are securely plugged into the Control Board.
  • Remove the (P5) Motor Connector from the Control Board and take a resistance reading between the 3 combinations of motor wires (red/blue, red/yellow and blue/yellow). It should read around 32 ohms on the Motor Windings between any of the 3 pins on the harness. NOTE: If you do not get the proper resistance reading on the motor harness at the board, check the reading at the motor end. If you get a good reading replace the upper or Lower Harness whichever is defective. If the reading is still bad when checked directly off of the motor, then you will need to replace the motor. (See notes below for motor access.)
  • Unplug the P10 connector and take a resistance reading between the two outside pins (1 and 7). It should read between 600 and 21.6K ohms. *NOTE: (If it reads open you will need to pull the Rotor and Stator so you can check it right at the RPS Sensor. If it reads good at the sensor replace the Lower, or Upper Harness whichever is open).
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  • Check your wiring connections on the motor and the RPS sensor. Unplug and then plug the wiring harness connections back in on these components 5 or 6 times. This will normally scrape through any possible corrosion or deposits on the connections. Tug slightly on the connections when they are inserted for the final time to make sure that they are secure.
  • Reassemble the washer .

Hope this helps .

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You said, when the washer is going into spin cycle it makes a loud clunking noise. You are wondering if this could be the brakes or possibly the pump?

Sounds like this!

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The direct drive (motor) Coupling may be broken. Many Whirlpool/Kenmore brands washing machines utilize a small, relatively inexpensive direct drive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other.

It can wear out over time or fail under overloading conditions. This protects your transmission from excessive loading.
it can also be a broken spring or strut dependping on your washes make and type

Please remember to leave a rating

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1 Answer

Washing machine


Check the coupling.
This is a direct drive, no belt. There is a coupling between the motor and the transmission.

Access:
You remove the whole outside cabinet.
Two screws on each end of the control panel will let this panel flip back out of the way then remove the two brass clamps on each side. Unplug the wires in the center and the whole cabinet will come off.

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