Question about Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Top Load Washer

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How do i take the outside off of my kenmore washer to check the motor stuff,

I read a problem that sounds like mine and i am wondering how i take the casing off to check to see what it is?

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Kenmore/whirlpool & heaps of others

  • Unplug washer
  • turn off taps
  • remove trims from edge of control panel
  • remove screws from under bottom edge of trims
  • raise slide forward and flip control panel over, hinged at top, do not dislodge air hose to level control
  • remove brass body clips under control panel, not position for reinstall
  • lift body 1/2inch (locator studs at bottom) and remove, top front and both sides come away as one piece
motor pump gearbox tub suspension is now exposed
reassemble in reverse order

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

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Kenmore washer model 110 82781800 won't cylce, just hear timer ticking


If the motor is going thru cycles and the agitator doesn't move, than it means the drive link snapped. cheap repair. it was made to protect the motor and trans. Read the manual before doing this. it will show you how to do it easily. iv'e done mine around 4 times. my wife keeps jamming too many clothes into the thing.
good luck

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Kenmore Direct Drive Washer Slow Spin 11023812100


there is a switch on the motor check the wiring make sure it is working

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Kenmore Elite King Capacity wont agitate or spin


Following is the Sears Parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.20952992

Following is the Whirlpool / Kenmore installation and maintenance PDF for top load, direct drive washers. It includes troubleshooting and testing sections for both the motor and capacitor.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Oct 06, 2009 | Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore HE4-t washer stops and gives F06 code and warning sound


The error is an indication a motor speed problem. You will need to check the following:

- Check the wiring harness. Verify all connections between the Drive Motor, Motor Control Unit (MCU), and Central Control Unit (CCU).

NOTE: The MCU is a circuit board located in the vicinity of the Drive Motor on the bottom rear of the washer. To access the MCU, you will need to remove the back panel of the washer.

NOTE: The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located behind the wash tub. You will need to remove the top panel to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top in place. Once the screws are removed, the top panel will slide back, then lift off.

- Check the Drive Motor. Perform a continuity check of the Drive Motor windings. Remove the connector plug and check across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3, and 1 to 3. All readings should be approximately 6 ohms. HINT: You can also take this reading by removing connector 2 from the MCU and measuring across pins 1, 2 and 3. If the readings are good, this will also prove the wiring and connector good.

- Check the MCU. The connectors are numbered 1 to 3 (L to R). That is, with the MCU installed, connector 1 is on the bottom, followed by 2 in the middle, and 3 on top.

Connector 1 - is the serial communications link between the MCU and CCU and has three wires. At the opposite end, this will be the 2nd connector from the rear on the left-hand side of the CCU.
Connector 2 - is the link between the MCU and the Drive Motor. Pins 1, 2, and 3 on this connector are the Drive Motor windings. Pins 4 and 5 are for the tachometer.
Connector 3 – is the primary power connector. Pins 1 to 2 should read 120VAC with the door in the locked position. Pin 3 is ground. At the opposite end, this is the 4th connector from the right on the front of the CCU.

NOTE: All the connector pins are numbered R to L.

If your continuity readings are normal for the Drive Motor and you have verified all connectors, replace the MCU.

If any of the Drive Motor windings indicate readings higher that 6 ohms, replace the Drive Motor.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Mar 24, 2009 | Kenmore HE4t 3.8 Cu. Ft. King Size...

1 Answer

My kenmore oasis he is flashing f51 and it wont drain. help!!!!


The F51 fault code on these types of washers indicates that the machine control board detects an RPS (Rotor Position Sensor) failure. This sensor is on the motor at the bottom of the washer.
Here is the troubleshooting for the F51 fault code:
  • Do not overload the washer. Overloading can cause this fault code.
  • Check underneath the washer for any clothes or toys that could be under the washer and obstructing the motor from turning freely. This can occur because there is not a cover on the bottom of the Washer.
  • Using too little water by choosing the wrong cycle for the type of load being washed can cause this fault code.
  • Make sure that your drain hose is properly installed per your installation instructions. Siphoning of fill water out of the washer can cause tub resistance and will result in this fault code.
  • Lift the lid and reach in and make sure that the basket turns freely. If not, you could have garments stuck between the two baskets or a problem with the basket hub. Any abnormal resistance to tub movement can cause this fault.
  • Unplug the washer. Make sure that both the Control Board Connectors P5 (Motor Wires, red, blue and yellow), and the P10 (RPM Sensor Wires, 7 brown wires) are securely plugged into the Control Board.
  • Remove the (P5) Motor Connector from the Control Board and take a resistance reading between the 3 combinations of motor wires (red/blue, red/yellow and blue/yellow). It should read around 32 ohms on the Motor Windings between any of the 3 pins on the harness. NOTE: If you do not get the proper resistance reading on the motor harness at the board, check the reading at the motor end. If you get a good reading replace the upper or Lower Harness whichever is defective. If the reading is still bad when checked directly off of the motor, then you will need to replace the motor. (See notes below for motor access.)
  • Unplug the P10 connector and take a resistance reading between the two outside pins (1 and 7). It should read between 600 and 21.6K ohms. *NOTE: (If it reads open you will need to pull the Rotor and Stator so you can check it right at the RPS Sensor. If it reads good at the sensor replace the Lower, or Upper Harness whichever is open).
  • To access the motor and RPS sensor, lean the washer back against the wall. Secure the washer with blocks if needed. Remove the rotor (1-bolt), and the stator (4-bolts). When you pull the rotor off, check to make sure that the thin plastic beads that run between each magnet on the rotor is intact and in place. This could cause an F51 code as it will no longer separate the poles of the magnet for the sensor to read them properly.
  • Check your wiring connections on the motor and the RPS sensor. Unplug and then plug the wiring harness connections back in on these components 5 or 6 times. This will normally scrape through any possible corrosion or deposits on the connections. Tug slightly on the connections when they are inserted for the final time to make sure that they are secure.
  • Reassemble the washer .

Hope this helps .

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1 Answer

Squeaking noise Kenmore portable clothes washer


He checked the brake? i wonder why.... sounds like u need some grease on the agitator shaft or possibly something else.

Jan 04, 2009 | Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Model# 110.25842400


Yes that is the correct lidswitch. (i checked via model # on sears.com) Before you replace the switch, Turn the washer manually into spin and see if it will. If it spins your lid switch is ok. If there is a humming after the washer fills then your motor is bad. It trys to work but cant. if it does nothing after it fills then you have a bad timer most likely. But see if it will spin when you turn the timer to spin manually.

Nov 20, 2008 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

2 Answers

Washer makes noises


You said, when the washer is going into spin cycle it makes a loud clunking noise. You are wondering if this could be the brakes or possibly the pump?

Sounds like this!

Faulty direct drive Coupling (Whirlpool / Kenmore / Roper / Estate)
The direct drive (motor) Coupling may be broken. Many Whirlpool/Kenmore brands washing machines utilize a small, relatively inexpensive direct drive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other.

It can wear out over time or fail under overloading conditions. This protects your transmission from excessive loading.
it can also be a broken spring or strut dependping on your washes make and type

Please remember to leave a rating

Nov 16, 2008 | Whirlpool LTE6234D Top Load Stacked...

1 Answer

Washing machine


Check the coupling.
This is a direct drive, no belt. There is a coupling between the motor and the transmission.

Access:
You remove the whole outside cabinet.
Two screws on each end of the control panel will let this panel flip back out of the way then remove the two brass clamps on each side. Unplug the wires in the center and the whole cabinet will come off.

Apr 28, 2008 | Kenmore 24932 Top Load Washer

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